A properly set up TTB will be much smoother off road than a solid axle. TTB's get a bad rap.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=9287
AutoFab can help with TTB's
1995 Ford F250 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
- Thread starter psdfrank
- Start date
A properly set up TTB will be much smoother off road than a solid axle. TTB's get a bad rap.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=9287
AutoFab can help with TTB's
I got a few more updates to post, things are coming along and pretty soon I will start to work on layout of gear.
Anyway, since the roof rack & light bar (which is still not wired yet LOL) I installed a 90 Gallon auxiliary transfer tank RDS from northern tool. I used the install kit they have for the 2" fill hose. Thing about that is this truck has a hose in a hose style fill hose, only thing I could do was just take out the inner fill hose and use the outer vent/fill hose to plumb into. So far so good, i'm still testing it but I keep the valve closed and intend to fuel up when needed. All in all, the installation was straight forward and the tank is pretty sturdy.
However, what happened was when the tank came in, it was too my surprise that it wasn't flush w/ the truck bed. That was my original plan, I think I ordered it too fast and didn't double check the dimensions and thought I was getting the 60x20x20 but ended up w/ the 60x26Hx14 but an extra 6" of truck bed space is welcome!
Turns out that it was a good thing because it forced me to figure out how to run my cargo rack higher in the truck bed. After some research I ran across the Thule xsporter rack http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-421.html but I wasn't about to spend 600 bucks on it plus the load rating is only 450 lbs.
So instead I came up w/ using a grind rail for skateboarding, check it out:
That was my test probe set up, I bought two of these grinding rails from sports chalet for 99 bucks each. It came w/ everything I needed except for the hardware need to adapt it and mount it. Note that it isn't wide enough to go across my truck bed unmodified. In case you are wondering, those post are 58" apart (inner edge). These grinding rails can withstand at least 700lbs of force!!
The other issue I had before w/ the cargo rack was it was a pain to shove my gear under it since its 4' deep. So i decided to fashion up a method for it to swing open so I bought a set of Thule load bars and used it as frame/hinge. The hinge part is just stainless steel bolts and washer
For the latch I just used D shaped pins:
You can see my dog in the corner in aww of the swung up cargo rack..
Here's a close up of the hinge and fuel tank.
I also need it to swing open to I can fill the fuel tank. As you can see, the grind rail is height adjustable too. I can reverse and rebolt the post to get an additional 10" of height.
Next in line is heavy duty steering rods, new wheel bearings and dana 60 king pin rebuild. I also picked up a 10# winch but I will do that later. After I install the front end stuff, I may go for a sliding rectangular cargo box that slides out of the truck bed for loading, like those tray/drawers but instead I want to use a box.
I'm going to do some mods to then tent cot too, but not sure, might just get a real RTT.
Anyway, since the roof rack & light bar (which is still not wired yet LOL) I installed a 90 Gallon auxiliary transfer tank RDS from northern tool. I used the install kit they have for the 2" fill hose. Thing about that is this truck has a hose in a hose style fill hose, only thing I could do was just take out the inner fill hose and use the outer vent/fill hose to plumb into. So far so good, i'm still testing it but I keep the valve closed and intend to fuel up when needed. All in all, the installation was straight forward and the tank is pretty sturdy.
However, what happened was when the tank came in, it was too my surprise that it wasn't flush w/ the truck bed. That was my original plan, I think I ordered it too fast and didn't double check the dimensions and thought I was getting the 60x20x20 but ended up w/ the 60x26Hx14 but an extra 6" of truck bed space is welcome!
Turns out that it was a good thing because it forced me to figure out how to run my cargo rack higher in the truck bed. After some research I ran across the Thule xsporter rack http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-421.html but I wasn't about to spend 600 bucks on it plus the load rating is only 450 lbs.
So instead I came up w/ using a grind rail for skateboarding, check it out:
That was my test probe set up, I bought two of these grinding rails from sports chalet for 99 bucks each. It came w/ everything I needed except for the hardware need to adapt it and mount it. Note that it isn't wide enough to go across my truck bed unmodified. In case you are wondering, those post are 58" apart (inner edge). These grinding rails can withstand at least 700lbs of force!!
The other issue I had before w/ the cargo rack was it was a pain to shove my gear under it since its 4' deep. So i decided to fashion up a method for it to swing open so I bought a set of Thule load bars and used it as frame/hinge. The hinge part is just stainless steel bolts and washer
For the latch I just used D shaped pins:
You can see my dog in the corner in aww of the swung up cargo rack..
Here's a close up of the hinge and fuel tank.
I also need it to swing open to I can fill the fuel tank. As you can see, the grind rail is height adjustable too. I can reverse and rebolt the post to get an additional 10" of height.
Next in line is heavy duty steering rods, new wheel bearings and dana 60 king pin rebuild. I also picked up a 10# winch but I will do that later. After I install the front end stuff, I may go for a sliding rectangular cargo box that slides out of the truck bed for loading, like those tray/drawers but instead I want to use a box.
I'm going to do some mods to then tent cot too, but not sure, might just get a real RTT.
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alexfm
Explorer
Just a thought, you may wanna go to town on the underside with some Purple Power or other degreaser. It'll make it look pretty, and help you identify what fluid is leaking from where.
Desert Rancher
New member
Oil leaks...just fixed mine
1. There are large (~1-1/2) threaded plugs on the front and rear of the heads. They are prone to start leaking and is a common problem. Ford has an updated part to correct this.
2. The dipstick mounting flange will also leak. Do not attempt to fix this without proper instructions, otherwise you will drop a big part into the bottom of the pan!
The first step is to really clean the area good then drive a bit. Get a flashlight and a mirror and find out where it is leaking from. You gotta pin it down, it's tight back there. Oil leaks drip and run along everywhere.
PM me if you need help.
1. There are large (~1-1/2) threaded plugs on the front and rear of the heads. They are prone to start leaking and is a common problem. Ford has an updated part to correct this.
2. The dipstick mounting flange will also leak. Do not attempt to fix this without proper instructions, otherwise you will drop a big part into the bottom of the pan!
The first step is to really clean the area good then drive a bit. Get a flashlight and a mirror and find out where it is leaking from. You gotta pin it down, it's tight back there. Oil leaks drip and run along everywhere.
PM me if you need help.
Desert Rancher
New member
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Ageed. I owned one and the wander factor is high also. Mucho driver fatigue. Gotta upgrade those brakes also on the older pre-rear disc years. Somebody's got to have something out now to help. Can't beat the styling on the "square is better" Ford years.
sorry if you saw these pics already, i posted them in another thread but for a diff reason, but here's more info on them:
Red Rock Canyon, CA
w/ some gear..
loaded and on the road..
I mod'ed my tentcot to fold in half and ditched the cot part of the tentcot. Basically I took it apart and made a folding plywood platform so I don't have that bar in the middle anymore and is a padded surface now.
Spent about 50 bucks for the plywood and 12 bucks for garage door hinges, used scrap plastic to make more space for the fold, so total cost is roughly 370 for this RTT setup.
I recently bought a pop up camper I scored off CL cheaper than a new RTT!, its in good condition, needs some TLC but not too much. I will post pics up but its a 6'7" FWC I think, has the same type of windows and it fits w/ my aux tank.
Red Rock Canyon, CA
w/ some gear..
loaded and on the road..
I mod'ed my tentcot to fold in half and ditched the cot part of the tentcot. Basically I took it apart and made a folding plywood platform so I don't have that bar in the middle anymore and is a padded surface now.
Spent about 50 bucks for the plywood and 12 bucks for garage door hinges, used scrap plastic to make more space for the fold, so total cost is roughly 370 for this RTT setup.
I recently bought a pop up camper I scored off CL cheaper than a new RTT!, its in good condition, needs some TLC but not too much. I will post pics up but its a 6'7" FWC I think, has the same type of windows and it fits w/ my aux tank.
chasespeed
Explorer
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jeepmedic46
Expedition Leader
OK, sorry guys I haven't updated in a while went camping at lake mohave and then found diesel leaking from the coolant reservoir. I ordered new cups from riffraff diesel but i'm in line for the cup removal tool.
anyway, i only have a couple pics of the camper. I still need to go over it and see what works and doesn't. so far the fridge and stove work but the electric heater doesn't work nor the 120v plugs and water pump (probably related).
I'm kinda doing a dual mode for my rig, one mode will be w/ the camper and the other mode w/o it running the rack and tent-cot-rtt depending on where I go. I can say i'm getting a little sick of the rtt thing though, not much room but then if i run the camper not much room for cargo such as a bbq grill. maybe i'll go w/ a mesh rack??
I don't have a side shot but the camper doesn't cover the entire bed but since I have the aux tank in the bed it lines up just right and I can close the tailgate. I still need to tie the camper to the bed the guy gave me those bed stakes that you see but I haven't fiddled with it much.
anyway, i only have a couple pics of the camper. I still need to go over it and see what works and doesn't. so far the fridge and stove work but the electric heater doesn't work nor the 120v plugs and water pump (probably related).
I'm kinda doing a dual mode for my rig, one mode will be w/ the camper and the other mode w/o it running the rack and tent-cot-rtt depending on where I go. I can say i'm getting a little sick of the rtt thing though, not much room but then if i run the camper not much room for cargo such as a bbq grill. maybe i'll go w/ a mesh rack??
I don't have a side shot but the camper doesn't cover the entire bed but since I have the aux tank in the bed it lines up just right and I can close the tailgate. I still need to tie the camper to the bed the guy gave me those bed stakes that you see but I haven't fiddled with it much.
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Terrainist
Explorer
That camper looks like it's in good shape!