1911
Expedition Leader
... the truck is purring nicely after a full rebuild.
...
We're all excited to have the family adventure wagon in top running order and ready to take its inaugural voyage soon!
Congratulations Scott, good job!
... the truck is purring nicely after a full rebuild.
...
We're all excited to have the family adventure wagon in top running order and ready to take its inaugural voyage soon!
I removed the plastic trim in preparation for paint. This will be the last pic you guys see for a little while.....:snorkel:
What color is it going to be Scott?
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I removed the plastic trim in preparation for paint. This will be the last pic you guys see for a little while.....:snorkel:
Man, that looks great without the lower trim and flares...very Disco-esque. Can you take a picture of the rear quarter panel with the flares removed? How many holes would have to be filled to leave the flares off?
I'm excited to see what color you pick.
Also, did your's have a factory rack on top that you took off for your basket or was it rackless? If so, what did you do to fill the holes on the roof? Thanks.
Rtv works but a 1/4-20 bolt is easier to remove should you decide to use them for something later on down the line. I used the plastic ones available from HD because they had the smallest heads. Yes those are 1/4-20 bolt holes.Also, did your's have a factory rack on top that you took off for your basket or was it rackless? If so, what did you do to fill the holes on the roof? Thanks.
Ouch. The captive nuts on my rig are still there. They also spun in place when i first tried to remove the rack but when I pushed down on the bolts as I turned them, the nuts stopped spinning. That was a trick that Grasscat taught me.That's great and all, but I wasn't up and still not for dropping the head liner.... Plus, most of the capture nuts were pulled out with the roof rack... all frozen solid.
Yes! That was the major burden which prompted this exercise. I want to be able to trust the rig to go wherever my heart desires.
The heater hoses aren't easily accessible with the motor in the engine bay. You know, without hiring a 12 year old Japanese contortionist.
I am proud to admit, everything I bought with the exception of one item was manufactured in Japan. Some items even came stamped with Three Diamonds!The truck had a new radiator from previous owner. We replaced the water pump with an Aisin pump, it even had a reflective polish on it, and I replaced the thermostat last year. The heads were cleaned, two valves were lapped and one was decked 1/1000th of an inch, just to even it out. Nothing was done to increase performance. Reliability via stock specifications was what I was after.
We did learn that something was wrong with the truck or motor before. As there was little wear in this motor, and very little build up. The previous owner's (an upper middle class business man) sensible son used this for a year or two for college, and had all maintenance records from the first owner and his ownership. Plus, I did a car-fax report prior to purchase which showed all maintenance performed at a mitsubishi dealer. The issue that we discovered was that the motor had been removed and or replaced at some point... and after thinking about it, typing out this message really, I think I figured it out. The timing belt was replaced at 72,000 miles and the truck was then sold before 76000 miles. I'm speculating here, but due to the timing belt service interval being 60,000 miles, I'm now thinking that the motor was rebuilt or replaced after the timing belt (speculatively thinking) broke at 72k.
Regardless, I do intend to enjoy another 60k of worry free miles. And if something does fail, this exercise has prepared me for being able to figure out the reparations.