2013 Toyota 4Runner, Equipt Edition Build

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
ARB Front Bumper

ARB Front Bumper

I have been debating what front bumper to put on the 4Runner since the day I bought it. Actually, since before I bought it. I really like ARB bumpers, but I was also considering Shrokworks and a couple others. Several folks have commented here on each design, pros and cons. I was on the fence. Well, I got pushed off the fence. An opportunity for an ARB bumper presented itself, and I took it. I was still a little apprehensive about how it would end up, but once it was on, all my concerns faded. Here's what is involved.

A little bit of cutting

The instruction set for this bumper is 22 pages long, with 3 action items per page, and several activities per action item. Literally half of the instructions involve what and how to remove stuff from the front end of the truck. You remove the everything in front of and below the headlights. The next step is to inscribe a line from wheel well to wheel well, 25mm below the body panel edge on the side of the truck. The ARB template included for the cross panel cut on the sides of the bumper has no place in reality, so after a couple external consultations we made an educated guess on this one. We then removed the entire front end of the truck. Carlo from AT was tasked with cutting the bumper in half with a jig saw and cleaning up the edges. I continued with the dismantling of the front end.

Bumper 5.JPGBumper 9.JPGBumper 11.JPG

Bumper install

ARB does a pretty good job with their installation instructions. Everything went together as notes. We reinstalled the top half of the OEM bumper, and then installed the mounting brackets and crumple zone brackets to the frame. Next was the bumper itself. 2 guys stabilizing the bumper, 2 floor jacks lifting it in place, and 1 guy (me) under the bumper attaching the hardware. The goal is to leave a parallel gap on the side of the bumper 3/4" to 1" wide along the side body panel. The bumper has plenty of adjustment in it, and moving the bumper all the way up and out was the answer for a good fit. A few holes drilled for pinning the bumper in place and it was ready.

Bumper 13.JPGBumper 14.JPGBumper 15.JPG

Electrical

The ARB bumpers come with a plastic light bracket that works universally across their bumper line. It holds an indicator light and has a spot for an optional fog light set. The OEM bumper had amber driving lights and fog lights incorporated into the lower half of the bumper. I wired the ARB indicator light to the Toyota driving light circuit. This will most closely resemble the original lighting and the turn signal in the headlight assembly is sufficient for that task. I wired the OEM fog light circuit to the fog lamps, and made it all water tight with heat shrink tubing. No interior electrical modification was necessary.

Bumper 17.JPG

Winch

Which winch do I choose? It has been some time since I chose a winch. The last one was for my 100 Series some years ago. It was a heavy truck, getting heavier by the day. So I chose a Warn M12000, and it worked flawlessly. My FJ40 has a 30+ year old 8274 that has worked flawlessly as well. I looked at the Viking winch too. Thor makes a terrific product. But I chose to go with a Warn 9.5-XP. I looked at the Zeon models too. But the 9.5 is lighter and has a faster line speed. The controls would mount up easily in this bumper as well. A friend was letting a lightly used one go, so I picked that up and added a Viking 80' synthetic line and Hawse Fairlead to it. I actually used 2 stacked Hawse Fairleads on the install. The reversed interior one keeps the line clear of interior bumper metal, and the exterior one extends the line out far enough to clear the bumper's exterior metal edges. A couple more high level consultations cleared this concept as well.

Bumper 16.JPGBumper 24.JPG

Final touches and thoughts

The final items were to install the center and 2 side skid plates, and trim the wheel well liners to match. The plates were an easy hardware assembly and the liners trimmed up and attached easily as well. At first I was very skeptical of the ARB bumper. I thought it set up too high, set out too far, the side angled up awkwardly, and the skid plates resembled a duck boat in the Boston harbor. Now that it is on the truck, I can honestly say I was wrong. It looks great. The height is appropriate, and it doesn't stick out any more than other ARB bumpers I have had. The angle of the sides is aesthetically appealing, and the skid plates are actually at less of an angle than the other bumpers on the market. The photos that I had been looking at online did not do this bumper justice. I am really happy with the way it has turned out.

Bumper 25.JPG

Cheers,
 

chmura

Adventurer
Congrats! I knew you mentioned you wanted a Shrockworks bumper at first glad you went with the ARB bumper!
 

WarnerD9

Builder
I'm enjoying the build. It's nice to see people making it happen on the new 5th gens. I think they are an awesome platform. Way to keep it simple and clean.

Was the 100 at Cruiserfest? I would have loved to have seen this there.
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
The 100 has been the previous several years, but not this year. The gentleman that owned it now lives in California. I don't believe he went. I missed out on Cruiserfest myself this year. Too much on the plate to make it. Perhaps next year. I'll have the 4Runner, and our Chaser 2.0 all good to go by then.

Cheers,
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Fridge Base Install

National Luna Weekender Fridge Base in a Tembo Tusk Slide

This addition to the truck was at the prompting of a customer asking if it was possible to put a National Luna Weekender Base Plate inside a Tembo Tusk Standard Front Pull Slide. Honestly, I wasn't sure. And it seemed like a really good idea.

Fitment

The base plate measures 27"x14"x1". The inside dimensions of the Tembo Tusk slide tray are 28" x 17". So far so good. The base fit easily into the tray. The next trick was to figure out if the latches would get themselves out of the way to allow the fridge to set on top and slide into place. The basic premise of the base plate is that it has 4 stainless steel mushroom head studs on top of it, and 2 spring loaded latches at one end. The fridge has 4 corresponding keyhole cutouts in the bottom that allow you to set the fridge on top and slide it one direction to hook onto the studs. The latches spring closed and the fridge is solidly attached to the base. So as long as the base is firmly attached to something else, the fridge won't move.

Base 4.JPGBase 5.JPGBase 6.JPG


Location & Drilling

If you butt the base to one end of the tray, opposite to the latches, it will give the latches room to work. Next question is, can you use the predrilled mounting holes in the base on the slide tray without interfering with the cutting board slide out. It is very close on the 2 of the holes, but yes it is possible. I had to make sure I centered the base, side to side, or the hardware would not fit. It was the 2 forward most holes that were the closest. The back 4 holes were just fine. I marked/punched/drilled the 6 holes in the tray and attached the base with stainless steel hex head cap screws.

Base 2.JPGBase 3.JPG

Fridge Mounting

Now that the fridge base is securely fastened to the slide tray, the fridge can go on. We set the fridge on top of the tray, aligned the mushroom heads, slid the fridge laterally. The latches sprung into their closed location and we plugged it in. All done. The fridge is held in place mechanically, best of all there are no more straps to deal with. I now use those to tie down gear above the IGT shelf. It turned out great, and looks very clean.

Base 7.JPGBase 8.JPGBase 9.JPG


Cheers,
 

Yuman Desert Rat

Expedition Leader
That is probably one of the Expedition One Geri Cans. I don't think Rotopax has done a long white water can yet, though they should. That form factor offers some nice storage options, just as Paul has shown us here.

http://www.expeditiononestore.com/Expedition-One-Geri-Water-Packs-Geri-Water-Pack.htm

Rotopax used to make one a while back but I believe they discontinued it. Currently, they make 2 gallon containers that interlock end to end to form a long 4 gallon container.
 

cadrock

New member
Equipt, I have the 2013 4Runner Trail Edition and was looking at the OME suspension you used on your build. A local shop AOE4x4 American Overland Expedition in Lake Forest, CA recommended going with the icon system stage 3 here: http://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/...ta-4Runner-Suspension-System-%2d-Stage-2.html

I literally know nothing about suspensions and I'm not sure which option is the best for what we will be doing. We won't be doing any rock crawling, just the off-road trails in the USA.

Can you give me some insight into why the OME might be a better option or the give and takes between the two?

Thanks so much for all the details on your build, I'm really enjoying it!
 

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