2022 RAM 5500 Composite "Super Camper"

[StenchRV]

Well this might change some things insurance wise.....for the better WE HOPE!

State Farm just raised our rates from $150 a month to $200 a month. Having an expensive "box truck" on the back does not help with the commercial insurance policy we have. When we purchased our truck we knew it was going to be a expedition truck that was almost a permanent conversion. The habitat can be removed, if for some reason we decide to change base vehicles in the future or God forbid something happens to the truck.

We checked into the conversion process, seemed pretty straight forward. A few people on EP have done it and also sent us some information. THANKS to fellow Atlanta GA area EP members 2 bikes 2 brown dogs ! We were lucky that when we bought the truck, they knew the purpose, it was registered as a motorhome but not titled as one. The title part is what the insurance company wanted.
We took all of information, and the truck just in case, to our local motor vehicle office. They copied some of the paper work from Overland Adventure Truck (probably helped out) looked at a few pictures and sent everything in. Our small town MVD office has always been SUPER helpful and nice.

A week or so later......

GA reissued the title NO EXTRA $$$ Just the standard fees!

Time to go insurance shopping. We had really good luck on our large motorhome with the Hartford. They insured the motorhome as part time use, 6 months out of the year, divided up anyway you choose. We had them for 7 years and never had an issue. Hoping to find something similar with our current set up, or a least something a bit more reasonable coverage and price wise than a commercial policy.

FINGERS CROSSED!!

FINALLY back to the build this week!

CHEERS!!

 

[StenchRV]

Some progress....Still catching up on "other" projects

Alpha OBD it is! Get to learn something new. Some really good forums other there.
PARTS:

Samsung Android phone, new cheap Walmart version. Wanted a new battery so decided against an old phone.

This...which they actually make for our 2022 RAM 5500.

AlfaOBD

Hopefully will get it all together this week and "talk" to the truck and FINALLY get the tire size changed and the transmission shift points correct.

Need to carry a spare...




All the weight of the 202 LB spare will be be carried by the hitch receiver that is welded to the end of the subframe. FYI a single stock tire and rim weighs 121 LBS
The spare will sit in a cradle like this: JUST THE CRADLE portion. Liked the design!

Modified this cradle to fit the rear of our truck and then a center hub will be mounted to the steel in the walls to keep the tire from moving around on the hitch. The hub will be integrated into a rear wall mount that will hold the traction boards and most importantly have a upper mount point for the raising/lowering of the spare tire.

The blue tape running up and down might be L track with molle panel mounted on them or a small box mounted low E-W then molle above that. Still thinking

Getting the amber turn signals to work before I mount the grey tank...or at least TRYING TO! Special box number 2. The Curt 2 to 3 wire converter DOES NOT work with LED. Fingers crossed the Tekonsha one does, says LED on the website NO separate turn signal feed!



Cut the mounting holes for the Baja Designs auxiliary reverse lights and rear air bag schrader valve mounting point. Next...get a real backup camera mount and license plate holder.



Time to go help a friend fix her van electrical issues!

CHEERS!!

 

[danneskjold]

FYI a single stock tire and rim weighs 121 LBS

Are you sure? I believe a stock MPT81 weighs 111lbs

 

[StenchRV]

Are you sure? I believe a stock MPT81 weighs 111lbs

A "stock" tire being the one that came with the truck from Dodge

Stock rim and tire 121 LBS X 6

Super Singles, MPT 81 and Buckstop steel rim 202 LBS X 5

Yes I am sure, just put them on the scale ourselves to be sure.

CHEERS!!

 

[Victorian]

That’s a lot of weight hanging off the rear wall. If you can, I would recommend letting the main weight rest on the subframe/bumper and balance it on the rear wall as you have originally had planed.

In General, the wall can handle the weight of the wheel by mounting it on a rack system that spans over the whole rear to disperse the load. Adding the cradle, tire and other accessories is a lot! Feel free to reach out through PM or email if you more info. Cheers

 

[StenchRV]

That’s a lot of weight hanging off the rear wall. If you can, I would recommend letting the main weight rest on the subframe/bumper and balance it on the rear wall as you have originally had planed.

In General, the wall can handle the weight of the wheel by mounting it on a rack system that spans over the whole rear to disperse the load. Adding the cradle, tire and other accessories is a lot! Feel free to reach out through PM or email if you more info. Cheers

A little confusion......I tried to spell it out.

The ONLY time any real weight will be on the rear wall, multipoint mounted rack system, will be if we need to use the spare tire. The subframe and associated welded hitch will take all of the weight and day to day abuse of carrying the spare. The cradle will be subframe mounted. The hub I mentioned will be mounted on the rear wall rack system to steady the spare...ONLY...not carry it.

THANKS!! GREAT PICTURES!! I will reach out if I have any questions.

CHEERS!!

 

[Victorian]

A little confusion......I tried to spell it out.

The ONLY time any real weight will be on the rear wall, multipoint mounted rack system, will be if we need to use the spare tire. The subframe and associated welded hitch will take all of the weight and day to day abuse of carrying the spare. The cradle will be subframe mounted. The hub I mentioned will be mounted on the rear wall rack system to steady the spare...ONLY...not carry it.

THANKS!! GREAT PICTURES!! I will reach out if I have any questions.

CHEERS!!

All good!

 

[StenchRV]

Progress...and Alpha OBD

Grey tank time!



Getting the fuel fill angle correct. 1" PVC fits perfect in the stock filler neck. Shower drain also.

The tank fits with a little room for insulation and all the fittings and valves. I should be able to reach everything from the front. The back of the box is removable if needed. This is the view of the back.


Something to steady us with. We wanted a handrail and I REALY WANTED one that did not look like the typical RV handrail. Marine store to the rescue.

Marine Dock & Boat - 4-1/2" H x 36" W - Aluminum Handrail - Safety Grab Bar Rail

This aluminum metal handrail/grab bar is great for all types of outdoor marine applications. You can use it on your boat, dock, hot tub, pool and anywhere else you want a little extra support.

www.marinefiberglassdirect.com

I used a 3/4" aluminum rod, NOT all the way through, just to the inner FRP panel with foam removed to stop wall compression when I tightened the screws. I could have used a wooden dowel. I used birch plywood backing plates, to cut down on thermal transfer. TEST FIT, I will get it powder coated black and sealed in place in the next few weeks. I left the aluminum rod .025 proud for a place for sealant to live









Last but not least..... ALPHA OBD!

My first try at Alpha OBD turned the truck dash into a Christmas tree! WOW! Ok start reading!
The wife comes out and offers to help and starts the video search! Saved by my bride!
A really good video later! Seems I missed 3 of about 5 steps to set the new tire diameter.
All set and perfect @ 3126 MM, Thanks #Brad_UT! Truck shifts normally again! FINALLY!!


It is tight in there!


Back at it Monday! Time to catch up on a few things!

CHEERS!!

 

[2 bikes 2 brown dogs]

Hola StenchRV.
I had a question about your tire rack. Forgive me for not going back in your build to look at the subframe construction as that would answer this but is your habitat rigidly mounted to your chassis?
I'm thinking about shear load the wheel would put on your wall mounted stabilizer.
If your subframe allows some of the torsional separation 'stuff' then the center of the racked tire is going to translate different from the wall mounted stabilizer.
The further the tire mount is away from the centerline of the frame rails, closer to passenger side in your case, the higher the differential displacement will be relative to the wall.
The next thought is similar even with no torsional separation. It may be way too minor to think about but, heck, while we are here, here goes.
I'm thinking only about the vertical displacement for this second one. The rear of the frame cantilevers off the rear axel. All the hitch loads and any equipment back there is basically point loading the end of the cantilever just like a big kid on a diving board. As you load and unload that diving board with the impact over bumps your tire is rack will move vertically the same amount as the end of the frame rails.
If your habitat's rear most support is say, over the axel, and it cantilevered back on it's own support frame then it's going to bounce vertically in its own way. In this scenario you would get shear loads but only in the vertical direction. No left to right shear loads.
Without rambling too much more everything is either great or maybe consider some expansion ring concept or slotted hub connection.

 

[trackhead]

Pretty amazing build. How is it off road/off camber? Always been curious how those big 5500s with a decent load handle the weight?

 

[StenchRV]

Hola StenchRV.
I had a question about your tire rack. Forgive me for not going back in your build to look at the subframe construction as that would answer this but is your habitat rigidly mounted to your chassis?
I'm thinking about shear load the wheel would put on your wall mounted stabilizer.
If your subframe allows some of the torsional separation 'stuff' then the center of the racked tire is going to translate different from the wall mounted stabilizer.
The further the tire mount is away from the centerline of the frame rails, closer to passenger side in your case, the higher the differential displacement will be relative to the wall.
The next thought is similar even with no torsional separation. It may be way too minor to think about but, heck, while we are here, here goes.
I'm thinking only about the vertical displacement for this second one. The rear of the frame cantilevers off the rear axel. All the hitch loads and any equipment back there is basically point loading the end of the cantilever just like a big kid on a diving board. As you load and unload that diving board with the impact over bumps your tire is rack will move vertically the same amount as the end of the frame rails.
If your habitat's rear most support is say, over the axel, and it cantilevered back on it's own support frame then it's going to bounce vertically in its own way. In this scenario you would get shear loads but only in the vertical direction. No left to right shear loads.
Without rambling too much more everything is either great or maybe consider some expansion ring concept or slotted hub connection.

Mike,

Hoping 3 pictures are worth a thousand words. This is pre bumper but you can see how the rear of the subframe is attached to the truck frame and spring mount. See what you think after you look at the pictures. There should be no movement between the box and the subframe at the rear of the rig. Unless we are talking about the box “flexing”. The box is bolted to the subframe in 24 places using 3/8” grade 8 bolts. OAT ran full computer stress test on the entire set up. That sucker is stout!

ALWAYS OPEN to ideas before I start welding in a few weeks ?.


The tire rack will be mounted into the receiver hitch you see above.

 

[StenchRV]

Pretty amazing build. How is it off road/off camber? Always been curious how those big 5500s with a decent load handle the weight?

The off road test we did at OAT on the yard track, the truck did really well. Now with that being said we are not going rock crawling with this setup?.

It is 11’ 6” tall so I have no fantasies of doing the Jeep trails in Moab!

We have planned and worked really hard to keep most of the weight from the top of the cab down. A large portion of that weight is within 1 foot of the truck frame, above and below.

To be honest I would love to strap it down, put it on 4 wheel scales and start tipping it over to see when, an exact angle, it get really light on one side. I like the idea of knowing limits.

I have seen some people do some crazy stuff with BIG flatbed camper setups! NOT that would be us! I have no desire to wreck our rig with the money, and effort it took to come together.

Do not get me wrong we will use it! Probably push our own comfort levels, but that is what it is for…….exploring!

CHEERS!!

 

[StenchRV]

On a totally different note. Removed 3 of the boxes, an easy 45 minute job, to spray Raptor liner on all 4 boxes. Grey tank box before it gets mounted and plumbed. Just sprayed the bottoms, front facing side and wheel wells. We used Raptor liner on our front fenders but it was the first time using the wire edge tape. Two coats on everything except the wheel well portions, they received 3 + coats.

80 psi provided a good texture and finish.

CHEERS!!

 

[2 bikes 2 brown dogs]

S-RV. Everything looks golden and then some.
The example picture of the pre-modified rack looked chassis mounted.
I missed that your rack was going to straight to the subframe. That makes everything I was talking about a moot point.
BTW, what traction boards are you using and any idea if they've got weight ratings?
Me and one of my 7,300# tires got into this ick on the shakedown. Boards wouldn't have saved us here (much longer story) but seeing as we still don't carry any it's safe to say "I'm in the market"!
The scares were deep enough that we skipped a lot of beach living without them so they've moved up on the priority list. Imagine that

 

[trackhead]

Do not get me wrong we will use it! Probably push our own comfort levels, but that is what it is for…….exploring!

CHEERS!!

Again, nice work, and you'll certainly be able to get away from 95% of folks. That last 5% isn't worth it anyway, IMHO.