An M8000 Warn weighing less than 50lbs.?

[Grouseman]

Scott,

The main reason for this little effort is to reduce some of the mass from the front end of my Tacoma. With the ARB bumper and winch hanging out in front of the tires, it really changes the suspension dynamics.

More to come [/QUOTE]

Scott,

I got a catalog recently that had a small set up on a bumper, where you could install the winch as needed. (Warn Multi Mount) from Performance Products. It would hold up to 9500 lbs winch. I' m guessing it weighs 30 pounds or so. Have you seen that set up before? I really like the looks of the ARB bumper but it is heavy.

Grouseman

 

[madizell]

I have never understood the fixation with really long rope lengths on the winches. With a pully block and proper extension the 80-90' length is most ideal. A winch only generates its greatest capacity at the first layer of cable on the drum. Long winch lines make it difficult to attain full pulling power. That, and the line will nearly always pull to one side and require a respool anyways.

There is no single answer and no "ideal" in my opinion. Certainly most winch recoveries are short pulls, and if we are not traveling alone in remote country, there is usually someone at hand to provide an anchor point. However, using a snatch block can reduce available line by half, and if you have to use an extension to make the connection, you will have a shackle in the line that you will need to work around, since it won't spool past the snatch block. It also places a steel projectile in the middle of your recovery line, which you need to keep in mind, and deal with.

A lot of the discussion about line length has to be dictated by the winch you use. Many, like the M8000, won't take more than about 80 feet of line anyway, and they don't like having the line packed on one end, as will happen in a long recovery. If you use a hi-mount as I do (8274-50), it will hold 160 feet of 3/8 synthetic line easily, and I have made full length recoveries without resetting the line because the drum has an amazing ability to self-regulate and will handle a great deal of line packed to one side and still function. The longest recovery I have made was approximately a quarter mile up a 35 degree slope (t-case destroyed, tailshaft sheared, leaving us with only front wheel drive). Obviously we reset the line many times to pull that far, but we ran full length pulls each time without respooling or repacking. 80 feet of line would not have gotten us to some of the anchor points, and using an extension that needed to be put in line and taken out repeatedly would have used up a lot of recovery time. So, it just depends on your equipment and the situations you find yourself in whether you need or can use longer lines.

Not mentioned in the string here is the heat generated by lay down winches, and the effect that can have on synthetic line. Most of the high modulus poly ropes begin to break down at only 140 degrees, and beyond that temperature, the rope can quickly lose half of its rated strength. For lay down applications, particularly in ARB-style bumpers where the winch is enclosed and heat can build up, synthetic line is not a good idea unless you never do sustained pulling and never, ever, do reverse winching (power out to back down a slope) as reverse operation generates more than the usual heat due to stress on the internal brake. If you operate in desert heat, 140 degrees is easy to achieve with only light usage of the winch.

If you must use synthetic line in an enclosed laydown winch in hot country, use a kevlar based rope, such as X-line, which will take temperatures over 400 degrees without deformation. Actually, you can't really melt X-line with a torch the way you can high modulus poly rope such as Plasma rope. Warn offers a two-tone rope that is actually a combination of heat resistant rope for the first wrap and a poly outer length for the balance of the rope. I don't use the X-line only because of its handling characteristics, and not because it is inferior in strength or anything like that. X-line tends to jam a lot, and it makes spooling out after use a real **********.

The other comment, about greatest pull on first wrap, is true, but not really an issue most of the time. I have yet to stall my winch on the trail, so I rarely find myself demanding all the winch will produce in order to get unstuck (you have to be seriously, deeply, and gloriously stuck to offer 8,000 pounds of resistance, even with an 8,000 pound vehicle). Since it usually takes only one or two thousand pounds of pull to get moving from your standard trail stuck, it does not matter that I might be using wrap number 5 instead of number one. The winch pulls well enough even with the drum stuffed, as a rule.

Bottom line is that I have come up short on line, even with 150+ on hand, but have never been unable to recover simply because I had a lot of line on the drum.

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

This is a great threadeepwall:
loosing weight on this is a critical factor for me. I think a pound # in front of the axle is like 2#'s behind it (between the axles). not scientifically, but you get what i'm saying!
anyway, under 50lb winch setup is great- that's my goal.

question- how is the syn line quality from winchline.com compared to the roadlessgear.com (line by the foot)? pricing looks similar

I am thinking 5/16x50'

Winchline goes from 50' to 90'... I was thinking of 50' for best performance (carry extension if needed)

recommendations on the end attachment? thimble thing looks cool but I dont like the idea of a big metal loop sticking straight out the front.

love the idea of moving the controller box into the engine bay. is there a writeup on this or more detailed suggestions?

 

[Dave Bennett]

This is a great thread :iagree:

My front end is noticeably heavier with all my junk up there, this could really help me out.
Damn that synth rope is expensive though! :yikes:
Where are the good deals at?

 

[vanguard]

Where are the good deals at?

I recently bought 5/16" amsteel blue for my M8000. I would argue against that thought that the M8000 can only hold 80 feet of line because there seems to be a lot of extra room with 100 feet. That's not a bad thing because you typically can't lay it down as nice during a recovery (or course).

Anyway, this is the best deal I could find: https://peakempire.com/store/produc...d=198&osCsid=1a275ed971525e2152a01a59f14deca9

My friend and I both had the exact same experience at different times. We ordered it and didn't get any kind of confirmation, nothing. Two weeks went by and we didn't even know if our order was taken. We wrote to them but they didn't write back. In my case, the rope showed a few days after the email. I've still never heard from them.

On the positive side, the rope is great, it comes with instructions on how to spool it, etc. It's not pictured but it came with a really nice big red hook attached to it too. I'm really happy with the product and the price but Peak Empire needs communicate better.

 

[p1michaud]

Relocating the winch controller

love the idea of moving the controller box into the engine bay. is there a writeup on this or more detailed suggestions?

I did a few searches on YOTATECH and TTORA before doing this and found a bit of information. This is a realatively easy mod, all you need to do is figure out where you want to mount your controller box, then measure out the new wire distance. Buy the wire, open the controller box, remove one wire at at time (you can even label them with tape to be safe) then replace with the longer wire. Hook everything back up and presto you have a relocated controller box! :elkgrin:
Cheers :beer:,
P

 

[Willman]

Warn multi mount system / ARB reciever mod!!!!

I got a catalog recently that had a small set up on a bumper, where you could install the winch as needed. (Warn Multi Mount) from Performance Products. It would hold up to 9500 lbs winch. I' m guessing it weighs 30 pounds or so. Have you seen that set up before? I really like the looks of the ARB bumper but it is heavy.

Grouseman

Great question!!!

I am currently running the Warn Multi mount system! It is a great setup! I love how i can move the winch to the front to the back! It is also a great weight saver where i can store it in the bed. One thing that is cool about it is that it stays out of the weather!

I have a warn trans4mer brush guard up front that houses the reciever hitch..(FORSALE).I just bought an ARB bumper for my Tacoma. I am now fabbing up a plate with the reciever hitch to bolt right into the ARB so i can cont. the porable winch idea. I will post a thread of the buildup in the coming weeks!

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

I just noticed winchline.com only sells the replacement delrin rollers but not the entire roller fairlead. Any leads on where they sell the entire roller fairlead?

I have a ARB w/ the 'wings' that support roller fairleads... I am thinking of using a Hawse instead for weight and simplicity.

 

[BajaTaco]

I just noticed winchline.com only sells the replacement delrin rollers but not the entire roller fairlead. Any leads on where they sell the entire roller fairlead?

I have a ARB w/ the 'wings' that support roller fairleads... I am thinking of using a Hawse instead for weight and simplicity.

How about the uber-cool Viking unit?

EDIT: I see Viking has merged with Winchline. And the fairlead is not shown on the product listing. I would give them a call. I bet they have them.

 

[Outback]

I have used a wireless controller in Alaska, on one of the two speed Mega-winches. It seemed to work pretty well.

This guy had a sweet older Bronco with every goodie know to man on it. He coordinated this three winch recovery of a rolled (bigger) Bronco and was never near his truck. He could walk around and look at things as they were developing, all while making small winch corrections 60' from his rig.

I have a video of that somewhere... I will find it.

I just have never winched without being inside the truck, so I guess that is my thinking. A more mechanical connection, which should be more reliable.

How do you respool your winch line after you have used it. I always run mine back out and winch it back on correctly. I watch it as it rolls back on and make sure its all aligned. Whats your secret? Thanks.

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

thanks Chris,
I decided to go w/ a hawse uhmw fairlead. Less weight, no moving parts and alot less $$ (only $25)

I will probably have to do something to the ARB as the opening is larger- maybe the center of the fairlead will not be supported... gotta get it and see, it will be close.

If that's the case, maybe i'll get a alloy hawse and it will not bend- or put a backplate to close down the hole...

I got 80' of syn line. I figure that will be good...

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

My M8000 is in and hooked up! OEM dash controls too
It took awhile to finish all the wiring- bit here and there as I had time. Really happy w/ the result!

Now from this thread I know I am approx. at 45lbs. which is great.

I have a cutoff at the battery so the winch wil not work even if you mess w/ the control box or interior controls.

see here for pics
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=106252

 

[BajaTaco]

That is looking great. I love the controls in-cab. Very nice. Who makes the fairlead?

 

[Desertdude]

Nice work James! This incab winch control using the 80 series antenna switch is on my short list. Do you have more details on the wiring process?

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

Hi guys, the fairlead is from okoffroad.com A really good site, good service. They are the only place I found a ARB bumper compatible hawse fairlead.

In the website, the hawse has "ok offroad" engraved into it. Thankfully, it arrived w/ no such advertising.


Pasquale,
My friend Andries really helped me out w/ the wiring as I'm a total dork w/ electrics.
Basically, if you get the Land Cruiser antenna switch, you need 2 DPDT relays(double pole, double throw) b/c it has 2 seperate buttons you can accidentally press at the same time. Wiring diagram on Slee's tech site

If you get the 4Runner antenna switch, you dont need that b/c it's a rocker switch.

I have the diagram all sorted out, will scan it for you later today.