Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
....and then I made a corner panel



Well, I am actually very surprised that worked as well as it did.

This is the basic door to C-pillar cab corner panel I made. The 1st step was cutting be blank. That was pretty easy. Then I had to form a flange on two sides. That took a decent amount of time, some angle iron, various hammers, and I should have probably used ear protection. Once the flanges where formed on the top and bottom of the panel I marked out where the shrinking would have to happen on each flange to form the corner. Before I could shrink the flanges I needed to finish my shrinker stand. It would be almost impossible to shrink a flange on a panel this size without it....or perhaps a spare hand or ten.

Overall I am happy with the panel, but I still need to make another for the opposite side. I also need to trim each panel to fit.

Some details....



Here was my super exotic setup for making the flanges on each side. Basically I just clamped the panel between two pieces of angle iron and hammered the flange over carefully. I ended up using a combination of the air hammer, a nylon face hammer, and finally a steel body hammer to get the corner sharpness I wanted. Since the flanges where far enough apart, I could just clamp the 2nd flange with a slight bow in the panel instead of needing to come up with a more exotic jig. The blanket on top helps quiet down the rattle from the hammering.



I used a little math to figure out where the shrinking needed to happen for the corner. I used some sharpie to make notes and mark everything. The end lines need to be redone a few times as your hands and the shrinker wear the marks off. You don't want to be shrinking outside the area you need for the corner or else the corner radius will not match up.



This was the buck I knocked up to help me form the corner. I didn't end up using it as much as I thought I would. The flange shrinking did most of the work I think with forming the corner radius. I did end up draping a towel over this and using it to help 'bump' the corner a few times by laying on top of the panel. I don't think it did that much, but if you are too aggressive with it, you will warp the flanges past the bending area. I think it helped a little but I don't know if you need it for sure.



I made some legs for the shrinker stand contraption. It ended up working pretty well. It did take time to get the 16 gauge material to shrink. I lost count of how many passes I did. I would guess it was dozens. You are not trying to do all the work at once. My hands and arms where sore after I got done for sure. This panel isn't a light weight piece!



Here is the panel on the bench after forming. You can see a slight crown in the ends of the panel. I think this is mostly from the overall height of the panel. It is big enough it isn't rigid. Once hung on the body and clamped I believe all that will go away. Overall I am pretty happy with it for my 1st try at this size and complexity of panel!



Here is a detail of one of the shrunk flanges. If you look careful you can see a slight 'bead' starting to form on the outside edge. This is the area where the shrinker dies do not reach because it is an inside corner. The panel isn't trimmed to fit just yet, and is just hanging on the rear framework....

Now I need to make a twin and trim them both to fit...
 
It's coming along nicely. Bending and forming new metal is so fulfilling, and the end result is not the only reason it's fun. It's very soothing for me to work with sheetmetal. Having the right tools for the job makes it that much less frustrating.

Remember the days when only specialty shops could afford those tools? Seem like the dark ages now.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
It's coming along nicely. Bending and forming new metal is so fulfilling, and the end result is not the only reason it's fun. It's very soothing for me to work with sheetmetal. Having the right tools for the job makes it that much less frustrating.

Remember the days when only specialty shops could afford those tools? Seem like the dark ages now.

Yup, I hear that. Now just about anyone can dabble. What I can't afford I make up, or reverse engineer, as I go.
I just wish I had more space for tools! I am going to have to break down and build a shop some day soon.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
One corner 'done'



I was able to trim and fit the corner panel last night to the final fit. Overall for a garage made panel I am pretty happy. I took my time and trimmed slowly. I had to fit each corner around different tubes, flanges, body mounts, and welds. Trimming down the front to match up to the old door opening took the longest for sure.

I haven't attached it yet. I am still on the fence about adding some factory looking 'bumps' on the cab wall and rear floor. Once I get the other side done and fitted I guess I have to make up my mind. I am also thinking that some of the tunnel fabrication might be easier without the rear wall in place.

Some details, but nothing special....



This is the seam where I will have to weld to the factory body. Yuck. It isn't bad, but welding 3-parts together with a common seam will take some time. I may also glue the panel to the B-pillar upright to prevent rattles.



This is me being critical of my own work. The gap under the ruler is the total amount of belly in the rear corner from the forming process. The bottom of the ruler is against the bottom flange. The belly is in the middle of panel pretty much. Overall I wish there wasn't any, but having about 1/16 of belly in a panel that is 22" tall or so isn't THAT bad in my opinion. Some of that might go away as I clamp, weld, and glue the panel in place also.

Now it's time to do it all again for the other side. I suspect that will burn up the rest of my week-evenings.
 

brushogger

Explorer
That looks great! If you "critique" a factory corner, I don't think you would see any difference from yours. The factory tolerances weren't that tight on the bodies.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
That looks great! If you "critique" a factory corner, I don't think you would see any difference from yours. The factory tolerances weren't that tight on the bodies.

Thank you.

Yeah, no kidding, like one door opening being 1/2" longer than the other.....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
D side rear panel 99% done....



Overall it turned out well. I still have another 1/16 inch of trimming to do in a few places to tune the fit. That will come after I attach the passenger side panel permanently.

I am still on the fence about trying to form some 'bumps' in the panel. It is 16 gauge steel with a flange, so that basically rules out a bead roller. My HF 20 ton press is too narrow to accept the panel. I am still trying to think of some other options. The panel is so broad that it kinda annoys me that it is flat and smooth. All the 'flat' rear panel will be concealed by the front wall of the bed....and will be behind the front seats. I just don't know...

For some reason it finally occurred to me that I could measure the future depth of the bed since I have the rear belt line defined now. It looks like the bed will be 19" deep. That is a little deeper than I thought it was going to be which is nice. I should be able to create the false floor I need for the storage of the upper door units, and leave enough height to have a full size 13.5-14.5 wide tire without having it stick above the bed rail. Yipee.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I don't think it looks bad without any embellishments. It's a clean, simple, old truck. (Not really, but don't tell anyone)

Thanks, yeah, it won't look bad plain.

My other 'functional' concern is that the rear panel is a pretty big spread of flat metal that might do that oil can bongy hollow noise thing. Some 'bumps' would likely help stiffen up the panel a lot. All this stuff will be concealed by the front wall of the bed anyways, and not really visible behind the seats. I am also still on the fence about what to do for the interior finish on that wall.....just paint, bedliner it, dynamat with a vinyl or carpet covering, etc. The upper rear 'window' panels will be storing in that location also, so I can't eat up that much space on the inside of those rear panels.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
You could tack weld some strengthening ribs inside the rear panel.

yeah. They would have to be very thin (front to back) they might get in the way of the rear window panel storage....catch 22 kind of thing.

I need to check the press at work and see how wide the span is on it. Rough guess not big enough, but my memory could be off.

Maybe it is worth making a little press tool to make the shape....then finding something heavy and use a bottle jack.
I probably have enough scrap steel around I could make a frame to react the jack force.
I have also been thinking about building a longer press brake contraption, maybe it's time to accelerate that plan, I think it would work to provide the force I need.

Still thinking....
 

brushogger

Explorer
You could tack weld some strengthening ribs inside the rear panel.

Also, I use my roller for 16ga and it's only rated for 18ga. It works fine.

You could bond or spot weld a hat channel with a very thin profile across it. Even 1/4" deep and a couple of inches wide would stiffen it a lot, and bonding it would keep you from dealing with any warpage from welding. If you did spot weld it, you could use your magic primer and then you wouldn't have uncoated steel behind the hat. With your skills, you could bend up a hat channel pretty quickly.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
You could bond or spot weld a hat channel with a very thin profile across it. Even 1/4" deep and a couple of inches wide would stiffen it a lot, and bonding it would keep you from dealing with any warpage from welding. If you did spot weld it, you could use your magic primer and then you wouldn't have uncoated steel behind the hat. With your skills, you could bend up a hat channel pretty quickly.

That is an idea.

I do think I will be using some panel adhesive to help deal with some of the panel overlap on the rear panels. That should help with some of the rattles with the overlap top edge design of the rear panels. I don't want to weld the inside. I think that will warp things too much.

A 1/4" deep might be a bit deep if I want to hide the window panel in there. I suspect the frame of the window will be a bit close to 1.25 thick installed. I'd like to be able to provide a little padding and/or carpet on the rear wall to help protect the window panel. It would be nice if the rear window panels where completely hidden in that 1.5" space....

If I press something into the panel it will be less than 1/8" deep I think. That will provide a lot of structure.

Thank you for the suggestion.
 

brushogger

Explorer
Or instead of a hat channel, you could just roll some 1/8" deep beads into a 3" wide strip of metal. This would give more clearance. I've never used a roller though, and don't know how difficult it would be to keep the piece flat.
 

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