Overland Hadley
on a journey
TACODOC said:
Thanks Tacodoc. Most of the time winter is really nice.
Building My Overland Tacoma: Plans, Progress, Perplexions
- Thread starter Overland Hadley
- Start date
Thanks Tacodoc. Most of the time winter is really nice.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I am wheel excited. :wings:
Two full size spares.... check.
Two full size spares.... check.
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Overland Hadley
on a journey
A question about sliders:
Is there a major advantage to bolt-on over weld-on sliders?
The only thing that I can think of, is that bolt-on is more field repairable. Like, if part of the slider breakes you can take off a bolt-on, but a weld-on would require a "big hammer" repair in the field.
Any other reasons bolt-on would be a better option?
One more question about weld-on sliders. I seem to remember reading in a recent thread that you do not want to make vertical welds on the frame when welding on the sliders. Why is this? Any other words of wisdom about welding on sliders?
Thank you (as always) for the knowledge.
Is there a major advantage to bolt-on over weld-on sliders?
The only thing that I can think of, is that bolt-on is more field repairable. Like, if part of the slider breakes you can take off a bolt-on, but a weld-on would require a "big hammer" repair in the field.
Any other reasons bolt-on would be a better option?
One more question about weld-on sliders. I seem to remember reading in a recent thread that you do not want to make vertical welds on the frame when welding on the sliders. Why is this? Any other words of wisdom about welding on sliders?
Thank you (as always) for the knowledge.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
What you're trying to avoid in not welding straight up and down is creating a stress riser that stretches between the top and bottom flanges of the frame rail(s).
What I've noted is that bending cracks want to propagate parallel & perpendicular to the direction of the loading. Torsion cracks propagate at 45* to the twist axis. If a weld or change in thickness aligns with any of these it makes the crack formation that much easier. Partly because of the Heat Affected Zone and partly because of the change in cross-sectional thickness.
A diamond or stretched diamond shape is the easiest & most common, but curved shapes tend to be a little more resistant to cracking.
Like-wise, a load spreading plate that is significantly thicker than the frame rail is working against you. It is much stiffer and more resistant to distortion than the frame rail wall, which works to tear itself loose from the frame at the welds. If you feel that you need a lot of thickness somewhere you're far better off to laminate multiple layers up to the desired thickness. In lamination, Rosette welds are your friend.
What I've noted is that bending cracks want to propagate parallel & perpendicular to the direction of the loading. Torsion cracks propagate at 45* to the twist axis. If a weld or change in thickness aligns with any of these it makes the crack formation that much easier. Partly because of the Heat Affected Zone and partly because of the change in cross-sectional thickness.
A diamond or stretched diamond shape is the easiest & most common, but curved shapes tend to be a little more resistant to cracking.
Like-wise, a load spreading plate that is significantly thicker than the frame rail is working against you. It is much stiffer and more resistant to distortion than the frame rail wall, which works to tear itself loose from the frame at the welds. If you feel that you need a lot of thickness somewhere you're far better off to laminate multiple layers up to the desired thickness. In lamination, Rosette welds are your friend.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
ntsqd said:
Wow, thank you! This is why Expedition Portal is so amazing.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
4Rescue said:
Thanks!
Michael
Adventurer
Good time to think about an aux battery system
Oh no! Not another aux battery thread! But ... if you're still building a sleeping platform, now might be a good time to think about installing an aux battery system if you think you'll ever need one. I really like the convenience of having surplus power for camp lighting and convenience items for those 'late stop/quick camp' nights. I put a deep-cycle battery under the platform at center-forward in my truck bed to put the weight in the right place. I ran DC and AC outlets (from additional inverters) to the back of the bed and up into the cab. Both batteries are isolated and both charge off the truck's heavy duty alternator. Nothing I use for camping, airing up, convenience items, etc draws off my starter battery, and they can be cross-connected if I need to jump start the truck some morning (really the main purpose for installing it!).
A design note: On the bed platform, I designed the rear section to flip up to allow me to carry gas cans, water jugs, etc in the back part. The whole platform can be unloaded and completely removed in about 1:20, including the cap.
The AGM batteries aren't supposed to off-gas, but if some failure causes you to overcharge the aux battery in the hot desert (my normal haunt) it theoretically could. For that reason, I chose the Optima D31T, which has a sealed vent port that I routed outside the shell for safety. The entire set-up is fully fused and protected from shorts and overload.
In-process photos available if you'd like to see more details. Good luck on your truck -- it's looking nice!
Overland Hadley said:Work has begun on my storage drawers and sleeping shelf!
Oh no! Not another aux battery thread! But ... if you're still building a sleeping platform, now might be a good time to think about installing an aux battery system if you think you'll ever need one. I really like the convenience of having surplus power for camp lighting and convenience items for those 'late stop/quick camp' nights. I put a deep-cycle battery under the platform at center-forward in my truck bed to put the weight in the right place. I ran DC and AC outlets (from additional inverters) to the back of the bed and up into the cab. Both batteries are isolated and both charge off the truck's heavy duty alternator. Nothing I use for camping, airing up, convenience items, etc draws off my starter battery, and they can be cross-connected if I need to jump start the truck some morning (really the main purpose for installing it!).
A design note: On the bed platform, I designed the rear section to flip up to allow me to carry gas cans, water jugs, etc in the back part. The whole platform can be unloaded and completely removed in about 1:20, including the cap.
The AGM batteries aren't supposed to off-gas, but if some failure causes you to overcharge the aux battery in the hot desert (my normal haunt) it theoretically could. For that reason, I chose the Optima D31T, which has a sealed vent port that I routed outside the shell for safety. The entire set-up is fully fused and protected from shorts and overload.
In-process photos available if you'd like to see more details. Good luck on your truck -- it's looking nice!
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Terracoma
Adventurer
Overland Hadley said:
Did you ever get a chance to try out your new chains? :chowtime:
I may be in need of set in the near future, so I was also wondering if you bought the 265s or the 267s? The Thule fitment guide suggests the 265's would be the correct size for my 265/75R16s, but your post links to the 267s... Just curious!
Also looking forward to your sleeping shelf design!
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Terracoma said:Did you ever get a chance to try out your new chains? :chowtime:
I may be in need of set in the near future, so I was also wondering if you bought the 265s or the 267s? The Thule fitment guide suggests the 265's would be the correct size for my 265/75R16s, but your post links to the 267s... Just curious!
Also looking forward to your sleeping shelf design!
Yes, I bought the XB-16's in size 265. Not sure why my link goes to the wrong size. So if you are runninng 265/75/16, you would want size 265.
Sadly, I have not had the chance to test the chains yet. Thought I was going to one night. I was driving on an old logging road about thirty miles off the grid. There were some icy hills, and some areas were a bit on the soft-deep side, but the four wheel drive powered right along. It was dark and well below zero, so I did not feel like putting the chains on for fun. I did get a good test of the IPF lights, those things are amazing.
The work on the sleeping platform and storage area is coming along nicely. Should have an update on them shortly.
p1michaud
Expedition Leader
Sliders
If it were me, I'd go with the bolt on route. This post explains why.
A few simple reasons:
1-The additional fab time required to make them bolt on is small.
2-If you ever have to remove them, the bolt on version makes you life easier.
3-No chance of frame damage due to inproper welding.
My two cents.
P
Overland Hadley said:
If it were me, I'd go with the bolt on route. This post explains why.
A few simple reasons:
1-The additional fab time required to make them bolt on is small.
2-If you ever have to remove them, the bolt on version makes you life easier.
3-No chance of frame damage due to inproper welding.
My two cents.
P
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Michael said:
Thanks for the information and photos.
Your electrical work is impressive. At this point in time I lack the skills to install a system like that, but it is definitally something that in the future I might want to do. For now I will be using a simple backup battery-power source unit.
I am designing my sleeping platform to have a fold over and down extention, so I have more leg room to sleep. I envy short people when sleeping in the back of a vehicle.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
p1michaud said:
Thanks.
I now have a much better understanding of why bolt-on is a better option.
Bolt-on it will be!
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I removed the rear jump seats (extended cab) today. They were in the way of storing gear in the up position, and they were a total wast of space when folded down. I am working on a small drawer for the space, most likely to hold canned goods.