Dark Shark
adventurer
I'm definitely liking you build. I can't wait to see what's next!
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Burzon's 2004 4Runner SE (V6) Overland Build
- Thread starter MBurzon
- Start date
MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
A few weeks ago I found a really sweet deal on a used set of Wet Okole seat covers specifically made for my 4Runner. I want to say they were about $280 new, and I picked them up previously loved for $90 shipped to my door. I was in the market for seat covers because my passenger seat had a hole in it from the previous owner and it always bothered me. The color combination of black and charcoal looks about as good as it could for an aftermarket product made out of wetsuit and I am very pleased.
I installed these seat covers in the dark when it was about 38 degrees outside. My patience was a little thin, but after installing the first seat cover the second went on in less than fifteen minutes. I'm pleased with the fit, although the drivers side seat controls and the seat cover do not integrate perfectly. It is possible that a re-installation could remedy the problem since my first installation was the drivers side.
Wet Okole Seat Covers, purchased in great condition second-hand! Lucky find...
I installed these seat covers in the dark when it was about 38 degrees outside. My patience was a little thin, but after installing the first seat cover the second went on in less than fifteen minutes. I'm pleased with the fit, although the drivers side seat controls and the seat cover do not integrate perfectly. It is possible that a re-installation could remedy the problem since my first installation was the drivers side.
Wet Okole Seat Covers, purchased in great condition second-hand! Lucky find...
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MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
Ahh ****. I dented my truck on last weekend's winter wheeling trip. Snow wheeling in Vermont is not for the faint of heart!
I slowly slid sideways off the snow covered, off-camber trail, after becoming stuck and spinning my wheels in an attempt to get free.
Vermont Winter Overland Trophy
Vermont Winter Overland Trophy
I slowly slid sideways off the snow covered, off-camber trail, after becoming stuck and spinning my wheels in an attempt to get free.
Vermont Winter Overland Trophy
Vermont Winter Overland Trophy
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MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
I went wheeling this weekend with some friends in Manchester & Dorset, VT. I pulled a quick video together with clips taken from my Go Pro. Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gRUfSxdKvc&feature=youtu.be
Enjoy! :smiley_drive:
Enjoy! :smiley_drive:
MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
I sold my 2008 Audi TT 3.2 and am looking at making a few upgrades to my 4Runner. I ordered an RCI Gas Tank skid and a Bad Elf GPS unit for my iPad 2 - both much needed additions to my overland setup. Here is my tentative plan moving forward.
With the V6 and 33 inch tires, the stock 3.727 gearing is too low for Vermont's Green Mountains. It is tolerable, but it runs at 1,500RPM to 1,700RPM when cruising at 70MPH on the highway, and when I tow a small 5x7 utility trailer empty there is a very noticeable reduction in power. I'd like to get some pep back and cruise around 2,500-2,800 when cruising on the highway. I'm most likely going to 4.56 gears, although there seems to be some thought on the forums that 4.88 is the better choice for 33's with a V6. I need to do more research on this - the truck sees the highway regularly and I don't want my gearing too high.
I'm adding an ARB locker in the rear end. As a temporary daily driver for the next 6 or so months, I'm reinstalling the front sway bar for safety reasons and am not interested in removing it every time I go off road. I will lose some suspension articulation and the locker will make up for that loss of traction. I'm not doing an ARB in the front because I think it is unnecessary with respect to the way I use the truck and I don't want to strain the front CV's. Furthermore, Toyota's A-TRAC is really good at keeping the truck moving forward anyway so my new setup will essentially be a locked rear end with a limited slip in the front - damn near unstoppable. I'm also looking forward to having an on-board air source again for airing up my tires after a day on the trail.
I've made arrangements to have my front and rear bumpers sandblasted and either re-painted or re-powder coated. Performance Unlimited in Woodstock, VT suggested I have them repainted because they will then be easier to maintain and touch up many years into the future. While the bumpers are off the Ramsey Patriot Profile winch will be overhauled, the truck will receive a waxoyl spa treatment along with it's annual buffing and waxing. When I get the bumpers back, I'll be installing a JW Speaker reverse light, two new JW Speaker TS3000R spot and flood lights, and two new JW Speaker 4" fog lights and am looking into an S-pod designed for the FJ Cruiser to control all of the electronics. I'm back to running one set of factory wheels, and I'm thinking about having them sandblasted and refinished in an anthracite color while all of this work is going down.
This plan is a ton of work and resources, but the end result is a very clean, reliable, and capable rig that with any luck will last another 100,000 miles+.
With the V6 and 33 inch tires, the stock 3.727 gearing is too low for Vermont's Green Mountains. It is tolerable, but it runs at 1,500RPM to 1,700RPM when cruising at 70MPH on the highway, and when I tow a small 5x7 utility trailer empty there is a very noticeable reduction in power. I'd like to get some pep back and cruise around 2,500-2,800 when cruising on the highway. I'm most likely going to 4.56 gears, although there seems to be some thought on the forums that 4.88 is the better choice for 33's with a V6. I need to do more research on this - the truck sees the highway regularly and I don't want my gearing too high.
I'm adding an ARB locker in the rear end. As a temporary daily driver for the next 6 or so months, I'm reinstalling the front sway bar for safety reasons and am not interested in removing it every time I go off road. I will lose some suspension articulation and the locker will make up for that loss of traction. I'm not doing an ARB in the front because I think it is unnecessary with respect to the way I use the truck and I don't want to strain the front CV's. Furthermore, Toyota's A-TRAC is really good at keeping the truck moving forward anyway so my new setup will essentially be a locked rear end with a limited slip in the front - damn near unstoppable. I'm also looking forward to having an on-board air source again for airing up my tires after a day on the trail.
I've made arrangements to have my front and rear bumpers sandblasted and either re-painted or re-powder coated. Performance Unlimited in Woodstock, VT suggested I have them repainted because they will then be easier to maintain and touch up many years into the future. While the bumpers are off the Ramsey Patriot Profile winch will be overhauled, the truck will receive a waxoyl spa treatment along with it's annual buffing and waxing. When I get the bumpers back, I'll be installing a JW Speaker reverse light, two new JW Speaker TS3000R spot and flood lights, and two new JW Speaker 4" fog lights and am looking into an S-pod designed for the FJ Cruiser to control all of the electronics. I'm back to running one set of factory wheels, and I'm thinking about having them sandblasted and refinished in an anthracite color while all of this work is going down.
This plan is a ton of work and resources, but the end result is a very clean, reliable, and capable rig that with any luck will last another 100,000 miles+.
Jeremy P.
Adventurer
I agree with going to 4.56 gears. My V6 4runner has 4.88's and I would prefer 4.56 for the highway. I bought my 4runner with the gears and ARB's in it already which the previous owner had a shop install; if I were going to do it I would get the complete pre-assembled 3rd/clamshell ready to bolt in. I have already rebuilt the rear third (bad pinion bearing, too much preload?) and the front clamshell (pinion was loose so no preload). I don't know if the shop is fully to blame, but the front especially had a number of visible hammer marks on components (including the ARB sealing ring!) that could only have been from the original installation. Someone at the shop was having a bad day perhaps? Getting the pre-assembled diffs from a place that specializes in them like ECGS just seems like the best route. Regarding the front ARB, I would vote for it; I have had several times in rocks with loose wet sand around them that the rear ARB wasn't enough but locking the front allowed me to get through.
Here's a little 4wheeling on 21 road in Colorado from a couple weeks ago:
Coming back down and getting a little air: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3N8iVRtTwk
Do you still have your rear sway bar installed? I don't have front or rear, but I know with my 1990 4runner which had long travel in the front, reinstalling the rear sway bar made a tremendous difference.
Here's a little 4wheeling on 21 road in Colorado from a couple weeks ago:
Coming back down and getting a little air: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3N8iVRtTwk
Do you still have your rear sway bar installed? I don't have front or rear, but I know with my 1990 4runner which had long travel in the front, reinstalling the rear sway bar made a tremendous difference.
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MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
Thank you so much for your post and personal experience with 4.56 gearing. That video is fantastic! Nice driving.
I have extended sway bar links in the rear and a removed sway bar in the front with OME heavy coils. It's fine but I'm skeptical about an oh **** moment driving at 70mph. When I hit the brakes hard I wander quite a bit. Lol. Might be sketchy as a road warrior this winter.
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I have extended sway bar links in the rear and a removed sway bar in the front with OME heavy coils. It's fine but I'm skeptical about an oh **** moment driving at 70mph. When I hit the brakes hard I wander quite a bit. Lol. Might be sketchy as a road warrior this winter.
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fireball
Explorer
Hey Matt, I think you might regret not getting that ARB up front. My LC has the OEM rear locker and there have been times I wanted/needed a locked front. So much so in fact, that I have one sitting here waiting to be installed in a few weeks 
I don't have ATRAC on my setup, and my only 4R experience is with the 3rd gen so take my advice with a large grain of salt.
I don't have ATRAC on my setup, and my only 4R experience is with the 3rd gen so take my advice with a large grain of salt.
cascade.king
New member
.. and I hear you have smaller dents than you used to.. Sorry I missed it! (Thank you)
MBurzon
Photo/Video, Mechanic, Cook, Driver, First Aid
Thanks Mike. I appreciate you looking out for my truck!
I replaced my front brake calipers, rotors, and pads this weekend. Once I got set up and figured out what I was doing it was a super easy job. The only challenge was that I learned my calipers had 3 of 8 pistons seized up after I started the job. With my truck out of commission I grabbed a back pack, jumped on my bike, and rode to the nearest auto parts store. They had everything I needed to swap calipers on both sides (lucky me). You can't beat the convenience of Toyota parts availability! With the job complete my braking performance has improved by at least 40% - probably more.
I also finished installing a new Scan Gauge II which took all of 10 minutes. I used a GPS to correct the speedometer feature of the Scan Gauge and was surprised to learn I was off the factory speedo by 9% with 255-80-17's (33's). I also confirmed that my RPM's are at 1,732 when cruising the highway at 60MPH (speed confirmed by GPS) with factory 3.73 gearing. I wouldn't mind kicking that up a little bit.
I replaced my front brake calipers, rotors, and pads this weekend. Once I got set up and figured out what I was doing it was a super easy job. The only challenge was that I learned my calipers had 3 of 8 pistons seized up after I started the job. With my truck out of commission I grabbed a back pack, jumped on my bike, and rode to the nearest auto parts store. They had everything I needed to swap calipers on both sides (lucky me). You can't beat the convenience of Toyota parts availability! With the job complete my braking performance has improved by at least 40% - probably more.
I also finished installing a new Scan Gauge II which took all of 10 minutes. I used a GPS to correct the speedometer feature of the Scan Gauge and was surprised to learn I was off the factory speedo by 9% with 255-80-17's (33's). I also confirmed that my RPM's are at 1,732 when cruising the highway at 60MPH (speed confirmed by GPS) with factory 3.73 gearing. I wouldn't mind kicking that up a little bit.
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