Harald Hansen
Explorer
For reference, a Td5 automatic Disco with straight pipes sounds like some kind of construction equipment.
Canadian Disco 2 Build
- Thread starter R_Lefebvre
- Start date
with a few simple mods the rover V8 will spin alot faster then 5250 for sure. In fact they like to spin fast.
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
For 4cyl engines
ok, did some more checking and it's not just for 4cyl
This is what I found in the parts catalog for D1 and DII, you might want to compare to the parts you bought.
D1
Push Rod
FRC3417
FTC3912 - TDI & MPI
FTC3913 - V8 EFI
Slave cylinder
TKC2786L LT77
FTC2498 LT77
FTC3911 TDI/MPI/V8 Superceeded by FTC5072
FTC5072 R380 TDI/MPI/V8
Plate
FRC2402 - TDI/MPI/V8 EFI
DII
Push Rod
FTC5199
Slave Cylinder
FTC5202
No listing for FRC2402 for the DII.
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R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Did about a 1000 mile trip with the truck and trailer. All worked perfectly, the shifting is getting better. Got some more seat time in a brand new JK, and the shifter in that is much much better. But mine is getting better, or I'm learning it, I don't know which. Seems to like shifting better at higher RPM (2500-3000) and quicker. Doesn't like slow shifts.
Oh, and I never did post a completed picture of the rear bumper. Here's one, not a closeup. It's a nice poseur shot on some asphalt.
The drawbar is of course removable.
Oh, and I never did post a completed picture of the rear bumper. Here's one, not a closeup. It's a nice poseur shot on some asphalt.
The drawbar is of course removable.
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X-plorenow
Adventurer
looking good.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
No, not quite. I need to rework the main knob first, still not happy with it.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Put in one of those big, ghey ricer knobs from ebay.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
That's what sent me down this path in the first place. I just haven't seen any I liked. Plus, I hate the thread adaptors they use. I just cut the right thread right in, no monkeying around.
What I'm going for is sorta like this:
http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_knobs.asp?id=684
Just nice and simple turned aluminum. But I don't want it to be shiney, I want to coat it with something, not sure what yet. Ideally, anodized black would be best.
Currently, it's not long enough for a comfortable full-handed grasp, and the edge on top is too sharp when grabbing it that way.
One of the issues with the "inconsistent" feeling shifts is probably down to the fact I used the OEM upper shift lever. It has a big rubber damper in it, in fact, the top and bottom of the stick are not directly connected, they are isolated by rubber. So of course the feel is a bit... rubbery. By comparison, the JK shifter I think is one piece. I actually was... frankly I was stunned by how well it shifted. I thought Honda must have been contracted or something. Super positive and shifts. The only complaint was that, with the super long stick, off-road the thing was bouncing around like crazy. Trying to grab the knob was sometimes like trying to grab an electron.
But yeah, my shifting continues to get better. Maybe it's just the Redline MTL goodness soaking into the syncros. Today, it actually seemed really not too bad. Probably similar to an old watercooled rod-actuated VW box.
Oh, and it appears cruise control doesn't work. Probably because the computer thinks the truck is in park. I dunno. I never liked the cruise on this truck anyway, worst I've ever had.
What I'm going for is sorta like this:
http://www.sparcousa.com/ptuning_knobs.asp?id=684
Just nice and simple turned aluminum. But I don't want it to be shiney, I want to coat it with something, not sure what yet. Ideally, anodized black would be best.
Currently, it's not long enough for a comfortable full-handed grasp, and the edge on top is too sharp when grabbing it that way.
One of the issues with the "inconsistent" feeling shifts is probably down to the fact I used the OEM upper shift lever. It has a big rubber damper in it, in fact, the top and bottom of the stick are not directly connected, they are isolated by rubber. So of course the feel is a bit... rubbery. By comparison, the JK shifter I think is one piece. I actually was... frankly I was stunned by how well it shifted. I thought Honda must have been contracted or something.
Super positive and shifts. The only complaint was that, with the super long stick, off-road the thing was bouncing around like crazy. Trying to grab the knob was sometimes like trying to grab an electron.But yeah, my shifting continues to get better. Maybe it's just the Redline MTL goodness soaking into the syncros. Today, it actually seemed really not too bad. Probably similar to an old watercooled rod-actuated VW box.
Oh, and it appears cruise control doesn't work. Probably because the computer thinks the truck is in park. I dunno. I never liked the cruise on this truck anyway, worst I've ever had.
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Root Moose
Expedition Leader
IIRC the JK uses a Mercedes-Benz transmission. They don't have a reputation for terrible shifting transmissions although manual boxes are not their forté.
What about a simple leather wrapped Momo (or similar, cheaper) knob? Getting something machined seems like a bother if you aren't going to leave it in bare metal is all I'm thinking about in that regard.
Cruise is a big PITA, especially with a manual tranmission IME. I wouldn't stress about it's loss.
Does the truck feel more "peppy" now that it isn't losing power through the fluid couple? Noticed any difference in MPGs? I'd expect barely noticeable but maybe a bit better?
We stripped a E36 BMW on the weekend. The shifter mechanism in that was interesting. I'm used to shifters that dump straight into the transmission. Haven't done a clutch in the S yet (although it needs it) so I'm not certain what style it has.
What about a simple leather wrapped Momo (or similar, cheaper) knob? Getting something machined seems like a bother if you aren't going to leave it in bare metal is all I'm thinking about in that regard.
Cruise is a big PITA, especially with a manual tranmission IME. I wouldn't stress about it's loss.
Does the truck feel more "peppy" now that it isn't losing power through the fluid couple? Noticed any difference in MPGs? I'd expect barely noticeable but maybe a bit better?
We stripped a E36 BMW on the weekend. The shifter mechanism in that was interesting. I'm used to shifters that dump straight into the transmission. Haven't done a clutch in the S yet (although it needs it) so I'm not certain what style it has.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Oh, and another thing about a metal knob... they get pretty hot in the heat in summer time. My wife complains about my car when she takes it out to hoon after the auto-x. And I have a hard top so it's not just a convertible thing.
Mind you, doesn't bother me much but then I have the 1-6 shift pattern burned into the palm of my hand. LOL
Mind you, doesn't bother me much but then I have the 1-6 shift pattern burned into the palm of my hand.
LOL
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Yes, I've had a metal knob before as well and didn't like it. That's why one of my ideas was just to finish it with Plastidip. That would help. It's really not a bother to make it and then not show it off. That wasn't the point. I have a lathe, and made it out of scrap, so the cost is really just my time, and it doesn't take long. If I end up with a shifter that feels good and I like the look, that's all I want.
The problem with the shifters on the market is most just don't suit the truck. Needs kind of an "industrial" meets LL Bean kinda look. Alien knob knobs just don't look right.
Looked at Momo's and the only one I liked was the Gara. Actually, I like it a lot. But then you're stuck with the boot not fitting right anyway. I can fix that with a custom one. I have a Sparco in the ZX3, and the boot just doesn't fit.
I don't know if it's peppier or not... I'm driving it faster just because it's more fun. I also put more load on it last week than ever before. I definitely think it pulled up hills a lot better. Anytime you have it loaded where it would unlock the converter, the manual trans will kill it for efficiency.
On our trip, I got about 12mpg, but that was rolling really heavy. Probably 2500lb trailer, truck full of people and gear, and a massive 17 foot canoe on the roof, through the biggest hills southern Ontario has. The canoe seems to have had a huge effect, more than I thought. Since the truck is a brick anyway, I figured, how much could it hurt? A LOT! The canoe is longer than the truck, and any air going over the top gets messed up. But chugging up a hill in 3rd gear 3000 rpm just FEELS way less strained than 3000rpm 3rd gear and unlocked converter with the auto.
The problem with the shifters on the market is most just don't suit the truck. Needs kind of an "industrial" meets LL Bean kinda look.
Alien knob knobs just don't look right. Looked at Momo's and the only one I liked was the Gara. Actually, I like it a lot. But then you're stuck with the boot not fitting right anyway. I can fix that with a custom one. I have a Sparco in the ZX3, and the boot just doesn't fit.
I don't know if it's peppier or not... I'm driving it faster just because it's more fun. I also put more load on it last week than ever before. I definitely think it pulled up hills a lot better. Anytime you have it loaded where it would unlock the converter, the manual trans will kill it for efficiency.
On our trip, I got about 12mpg, but that was rolling really heavy. Probably 2500lb trailer, truck full of people and gear, and a massive 17 foot canoe on the roof, through the biggest hills southern Ontario has. The canoe seems to have had a huge effect, more than I thought. Since the truck is a brick anyway, I figured, how much could it hurt? A LOT! The canoe is longer than the truck, and any air going over the top gets messed up. But chugging up a hill in 3rd gear 3000 rpm just FEELS way less strained than 3000rpm 3rd gear and unlocked converter with the auto.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Yeah, I've been through those same hills with a canoe on top of my old LWB SJ-413. I was also surprised at the aero drag caused by the canoe. Mind you, three adults, a big dog and two complete sets of camping gear being powered by 1300cc's on 33" tires didn't help either.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
One thing I did before the trip, was tackle the accessory drive system. The pulleys have been making some noise for quite some time, so it was time to fix it before it leaves me stranded somewhere. I removed the tensioner pulley, and both idlers. One of the idlers was very bad, but I replaced all 3 just because.
From left to right, idler with 6304 bearing, idler with 6203 bearing, and tensioner pulley ~90mm 7-rib with 6203 bearing.
The 6304 bearing is uncommon, and had to be overnighted to the parts place. Not a huge deal. This bearing is easy to replace, just remove the retainer and press it out. The other idler is a 6203 which is the most common idler bearing, should be in stock wherever you go. Only problem is the bearing is staked in. I had to drill out the stakes which I'd done half of in the photo. Then press it out, press in the new one, and re-stake it. Lastly, the entire tensioner pulley must be replaced, and it's a bit unusual being 7 rib and 90mm. The replacement part I used was a Dayco 89054, same bearing, slightly smaller OD. Had to be overnighted as well. I believe it's off a 1994 Ford F-250.
Lastly, I replaced the belt. I went with a Goodyear Gatorback, based on my experience with them when at Litens Automotive. We used gatorbacks on the pulley torture test rigs, they held up to whatever we threw at them and outlasted the bearings, so that's good enough for me. 92.3" length.
From left to right, idler with 6304 bearing, idler with 6203 bearing, and tensioner pulley ~90mm 7-rib with 6203 bearing.
The 6304 bearing is uncommon, and had to be overnighted to the parts place. Not a huge deal. This bearing is easy to replace, just remove the retainer and press it out. The other idler is a 6203 which is the most common idler bearing, should be in stock wherever you go. Only problem is the bearing is staked in. I had to drill out the stakes which I'd done half of in the photo. Then press it out, press in the new one, and re-stake it. Lastly, the entire tensioner pulley must be replaced, and it's a bit unusual being 7 rib and 90mm. The replacement part I used was a Dayco 89054, same bearing, slightly smaller OD. Had to be overnighted as well. I believe it's off a 1994 Ford F-250.
Lastly, I replaced the belt. I went with a Goodyear Gatorback, based on my experience with them when at Litens Automotive. We used gatorbacks on the pulley torture test rigs, they held up to whatever we threw at them and outlasted the bearings, so that's good enough for me. 92.3" length.