Canadian Disco 2 Build

[muskyman]

welding part of a flange to another yoke sounds like hack to me?

the flange only presses onto the ujoint, there really is not a place to weld.

the durango shafts are 1300 stuff so using durango splines what ever that is suposed to be sounds like BS to me as well. The spline stuff is not specific to any one brand or make it comes in sizes based on the tube diameter.

The balence issue people claim to have is BS plain and simple. Tom Wood builds the best stuff you will find out there. He ships hundreds of shafts every week and has now for more then a decade. Before that he managed one of the largest 4x4 shaft operations in the country for a long time. The simple truth here is that he knows this stuff inside out and you wouldent have a issue with the shafts he makes.

So it costs $300 to ship a DII shaft from will tillery in VA to you in canada? Will has the TW DII shafts in stock and he gets $345 for them.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

It does sound like a bit of a hack to me... well it could be. If done right, no problem.

If I didn't need a ************* passport to get into the US now, this would be less of a problem.

 

[muskyman]

It does sound like a bit of a hack to me... well it could be. If done right, no problem.

If I didn't need a ************* passport to get into the US now, this would be less of a problem.

I have sent stuff into canada and the shipping wasent that crazy. I think you are over thinking all this. Call Will Tllery and order a frigging shaft and be done with it.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

You didn't see the half of the shipping charge if you sent it UPS. They charge a random $50-200 fee for "brokerage" when delivered. I do not ship UPS anymore because of it. I will not.

If Will can do USPS, maybe.

 

[muskyman]

Call Will...he's a great guy and does a great job.

 

[Geo14cux]

call him
you don't know until you try!

 

[michaels]

replacing the DC with a 1310 unit and keeping the diff end a 1300 is just a dumb idea. yes it will work but for how long?

the 1310 stuff is alot bigger and heavier so now you have a much heavier shaft being retained by a undersiezed u-joint and flange at one end.

I know you are trying to save some money and "buy canadian" yada yada yada...but come on this is the front driveshaft, just do it right and be done with it. You dont need the long spline you just want something that isnt going to go boom.

the 1300 end is and has been fine. the DC end let go. i replaced what needed to be replaced and kept what didn't. if the other ends need replacing, then i will do that. shafts are already welded together, so there is nothing wrong with cutting one end off and adding a newer, bigger and better part. your call but the shaft i had put together works just fine.

if you don't like it, so be it, but it works just fine.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

That's a good point, that the shaft is welded anyway. Machining off the diff end flange and welding it to a 1310 yoke, if done right, will not be the weak link in the chain.

Is that number C2-26-309?

 

[muskyman]

the 1300 end is and has been fine. the DC end let go. i replaced what needed to be replaced and kept what didn't. if the other ends need replacing, then i will do that. shafts are already welded together, so there is nothing wrong with cutting one end off and adding a newer, bigger and better part. your call but the shaft i had put together works just fine.

if you don't like it, so be it, but it works just fine.

I saw your post and you can say what you want...just because is has not failed yet does not say it wont.

the 1310 CV is way heavier then a 1300 unit and rotating mass creates alot of forces that work on that smaller u-joint.

I am glad you are happy with your shaft but sorry I wouldent be bolting that onto my truck.

 

[muskyman]

That's a good point, that the shaft is welded anyway. Machining off the diff end flange and welding it to a 1310 yoke, if done right, will not be the weak link in the chain.

Is that number C2-26-309?

yes shafts are welded, the diff end flange is not welded to anything. It is only held in place by the u-joint caps and retaining clips.

 

[michaels]

I saw your post and you can say what you want...just because is has not failed yet does not say it wont.

the 1310 CV is way heavier then a 1300 unit and rotating mass creates alot of forces that work on that smaller u-joint.

I am glad you are happy with your shaft but sorry I wouldent be bolting that onto my truck.

that's fine. it's a fix that worked for me. it cost a little more than a normal rebuild, but less than a whole new shaft. the bearings in the original DC failed and popped out. luckily, it happened pulling out of a parking space. this shaft has lasted a year so far with about 15 wheeling trips. some more difficult and some easier. i'll replace the lower join when needed.

 

[Antichrist]

Rob, if you have it built locally I'd have them use a greaseable CV head, even if it's a bit more money.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Do you mean the joints or... the H-member itself? I was definitely going to use greasable joints. I wasn't aware of greasable H-member... to lube the centering ball?

 

[muskyman]

yes the good H members are greasable.

 

[Antichrist]

Well, the center yoke (H member) is never greasable. They are just a lump of steel that take u-joints on each end. It's the centering yoke inside it that's greaseable, or not, as the case may be.