Cheap Fridge <$400 shipped

[ZMagic97]

If I remember correctly, the fault was with the plug on the unit itself. Have you tried plugging it into another vehicle or socket? You could buy one (socket) at at the auto parts store for like $5 and hook it to the battery for a cheap test.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yes the screen lights up and shows the actual temperature inside and will show "FF" or whatever I choose but nothing happens. There is total silence with no fan running, etc. Again, it runs perfect on AC.

That mimics what a buddy's 43qt did when he also tried to use a thin underrated extension cord. When first connected, you actually could barely hear it try to start for maybe an eighth of a second, then it would go silent and just sit there.

I agree with trasko, forget trying to test your socket, just hook it up temporary right directly to the battery, see if it works. If it does, then you know the fridge is fine and you just need to upgrade your wiring (#12 gauge should be sufficient if all that's on the circuit is the fridge).

The one pictured above does not read amperage.

I see "DCA" (3 ranges) and "DC 10A" at the bottom and lower-right of it's dial, so it most certainly does read amps. Though trying to get readings of more than one or two amps using the thin included test leads can sometimes be problematic vs with a clamp-on meter (and again is more reason to just hook the fridge up directly to see if it simply works or not).

 

[HenryJ]

I see "DCA" (3 ranges) and "DC 10A" at the bottom and lower-right of it's dial, so it most certainly does read amps.

I believe that setting is a DC 10 amp rated fused setting. It does not read amperage but is protected by a 10A fuse.
Mistake on my part. See posts below-

 

[LexusAllTerrain]

Just buy the ARB Wiring Loom, install and you will be ready to camp!

 

[nely]

That meter certiantly does read amps.

You put the black common lead on COM and put the red lead to the DC10a socket to the left. Then put the dial at the 6oclock position that reads DC10a. You can then read the amperage draw up to 10a

 

[Ziv]

It does read DC amps. I'm a little surprised.
RTFI:
http://www.equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/3310.pdf
page 9

 

[HenryJ]

That meter certiantly does read amps.

You put the black common lead on COM and put the red lead to the DC10a socket to the left. Then put the dial at the 6oclock position that reads DC10a. You can then read the amperage draw up to 10a

I stand corrected. Thank you for looking more closely than I. I apologize for my incorrect information.

 

[magentawave]

I went to the ARB site and typed "wiring loom" in their search box and the only thing that comes up is this http://store.arbusa.com/IPF-Wiring-Loom-M002-P3645.aspx for $112.00. Aaargh. Is that the wiring loom you are talking about?

Just buy the ARB Wiring Loom, install and you will be ready to camp!

 

[magentawave]

Cool! Is this the way I should test it (see photo below), and could the draw on the fridge be higher than 10 amps (thus destroying my multitester) since it will be starting at room temperature?

Thank you.

That meter certiantly does read amps.

You put the black common lead on COM and put the red lead to the DC10a socket to the left. Then put the dial at the 6oclock position that reads DC10a. You can then read the amperage draw up to 10a

 

[Finlay]

Cool! Is this the way I should test it (see photo below), and could the draw on the fridge be higher than 10 amps (thus destroying my multitester) since it will be starting at room temperature?

Thank you.
View attachment 148087

There will be a largish draw as the motor starts, but that will settle out - which is what I see.

I have a 30 amp 12V DC power supply for my ham radios. According to it, the max pull on my fridge at startup is about 8 amps, settling to about 5 amps in a few seconds.

It may be the case that you wiring can't handle the startup current draw, but can handle the nominal - so, the motor never gets going.

 

[trasko]

Cool! Is this the way I should test it (see photo below), and could the draw on the fridge be higher than 10 amps (thus destroying my multitester) since it will be starting at room temperature?\

Magentawave: You've had some people answering your specific questions (about the multimeter and measuring current), but you don't seem to understand that the specific number doesn't matter.

The short version is: your fridge isn't working on 12V when plugged into the 12v outlet. You should try to power the fridge directly from the battery to eliminate the outlet and vehicle wiring as a variable.

Long version: If you read this entire thread (loooong) or the other threads about this fridge you would learn a lot. One thing is that *many* people have had problems using their vehicles stock wiring/outlets and had the exact same symptoms as you. The solution: re-wire with heavier-gauge wiring or install a new outlet with heavier wiring. This is old, old news.

The current draw of this model fridge is known. It's something like 5-6 amps peak (startup) and around 2 when running. Whether it is 8amps or 15amps or 3.87amps the fact still remains your fridge isn't working with your current setup. You need to figure out why -- not exactly how much current it pulls. I don't mean to be harsh but I don't want you to waste your time if you aren't clear on what I was saying. Good luck.

 

[4x4junkie]

Cool! Is this the way I should test it (see photo below), and could the draw on the fridge be higher than 10 amps (thus destroying my multitester) since it will be starting at room temperature?

Thank you.


View attachment 148087

And FWIW, touching the leads exactly as you describe with your meter set on Amps will very quickly result in a blown fuse (either in the meter or on your vehicle's wiring).

 

[magentawave]

Hah hah, you are absolutely right that I don't understand which is why I mentioned that several posts ago so hopefully I won't piss people off with my dumb questions. Everyone: I do appreciate your patience! I read through this entire thread but its been a couple months and it was before I got my Edgestar. So having read the thread weeks ago, coupled with a lack of knowledge about all things electrical, I thought I'd ask what the bottom line was as far as what others did to get their Edgestar to work on 12 volt.

When you say "install a new outlet with heavier wire" are you talking about replacing the existing blue and brown internal wires that go to the DC outlet?

Thanks!

P.S. I'll probably have time tomorrow to bypass the outlet and test it with my car battery.

Magentawave: You've had some people answering your specific questions (about the multimeter and measuring current), but you don't seem to understand that the specific number doesn't matter.

The short version is: your fridge isn't working on 12V when plugged into the 12v outlet. You should try to power the fridge directly from the battery to eliminate the outlet and vehicle wiring as a variable.

Long version: If you read this entire thread (loooong) or the other threads about this fridge you would learn a lot. One thing is that *many* people have had problems using their vehicles stock wiring/outlets and had the exact same symptoms as you. The solution: re-wire with heavier-gauge wiring or install a new outlet with heavier wiring. This is old, old news.

The current draw of this model fridge is known. It's something like 5-6 amps peak (startup) and around 2 when running. Whether it is 8amps or 15amps or 3.87amps the fact still remains your fridge isn't working with your current setup. You need to figure out why -- not exactly how much current it pulls. I don't mean to be harsh but I don't want you to waste your time if you aren't clear on what I was saying. Good luck.

 

[magentawave]

Well glad I asked and thanks for answering!

And FWIW, touching the leads exactly as you describe with your meter set on Amps will very quickly result in a blown fuse (either in the meter or on your vehicle's wiring).

 

[trasko]

When you say "install a new outlet with heavier wire" are you talking about replacing the existing blue and brown internal wires that go to the DC outlet?

Yes, that's what I mean. There is some talk of the connector on the provided wire with the fridge being a PITA (and falling out all the time), but at least the wire can handle the current draw. The same cannot be said of all 12V sockets in vehicles.

When you hook directly to the battery keep in mind you're taking matters into your own hands, as they say. Be careful and don't shock yourself. ;-) FYI I love doing my own work on cars and it seems like you might, too. If not, though, most any shop could test this theory and install a new plug for you if insufficent wiring is the culprit. All it costs is $$$!