Demountable composite box to flatbed mounting system without pivoting subframe.

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Adventurer
I'd like to focus on pickup trucks half ton - one ton including chassis cab with bolt on flatbeds.

Please share your experiences with your flatbed mounted composite panel campers without a pivoting subframe during off pavement use.

This subject path is well trodden but I wanted to revisit it to explore any new thinking that may have occurred over the last year. Most of the camper nerds here are well versed in this subject matter but I'll include some basic descriptions so anyone new to the subject can easily join in.

Types of camper construction
Camper units are successfully carried in standard pickup truck beds and it is generally accepted that the trucks torsional frame twist doesn't ruin the camper if the tiedowns have some compliance. Traditional tie down points are usually brackets mounted to the truck's bed, frame, and / or rear bumper.

Traditional camper construction systems (1950's - 1990's) comprised of wood stick frame, plywood sections and segmented aluminum skin panel structures are the most flexible of all the various types of construction methods and allow for the most deformation before structural failure. Granted the exterior seams likely loosened up and leaked over time but could be resealed.

The next generation of campers diverged in construction along two general paths both resulting in more rigid structures. Fiberglass clamshell construction and the other being plywood exterior with laminated FRP skins. Both of these systems are proven to work when tied down in a standard pickup bed or flatbed.

The newest generation of camper construction is a system utilizing composite panels comprised of a matrix of FRP skins bonded to a foam or polyethylene honeycomb core and results in a very rigid structure. This type of structure doesn't flex much and if forced to flex, there is a high likely hood of mechanical failure.

Camper shapes
Campers that slide into pickup truck beds have a common shape that allows them to pass between the truck bed's internal wheel wells. The shape in plan view is a T. They are wide aft of the wheel wells and narrow between the wheel wells up to the front of the bed.

A more recent truck camper shape in plan view is a rectangle and requires a "flatbed or subframe for mounting. Won't fit between a pickup truck bed wheel wells. These shapes are most commonly comprised of rigid composite panels.

Forces on campers at mounting points
When a vehicle is fastened to a camper it now becomes a system where one exerts force on the other. In order to stay out of the weeds and simplify things, this description will focus on static loading only forgoing dynamic loading complexities.

In a static flat ground condition, the forces between the vehicle and camper do not apply a torsional or twisting load on the camper.

When a vehicle is sitting on uneven ground where the wheels are on different elevations relative to each other, the vehicles frame deflects or bends causing a twist in the frame. When the vehicle frame twists, the camper either remains rigid separating from the frame or is forced to deflect and twist with the frame.

There are two areas of contact on a camper where forces are exerted on them. The tiedown mounting points usually at 4 external corners and the bottom of the camper where it contacts the vehicle.

When tiedowns at the 4 corners of the camper have built in springs or compliance they allow for a limited separation of the camper and vehicle when undergoing a torsional twisting load. I believe the importance of the separation is that the forces transferred to camper can be more isolated to the tie down mounting points which are hopefully located in higher strength areas.

I also speculate that and advantage to compliant tiedowns comes when the torsional loading is more dynamic and relative to time or how fast the force is applied to the camper. More of an energy transfer rate analysis.

How the forces are applied between the bottom of the camper and where it contacts the vehicle vary based on its bottom shape. Campers with a T shape or narrow bottom are more forgiving than a rectangle. This is due to the change in distance that occurs when something flat is twisted or the amount of deflection at a distance from center. When a frame twists, the deflection or change in dimension increases from the middle to outer edge. This is the main case for developing a pivoting subframe and not hard mounting a very rigid composite box to a vehicle's frame (warning: massive rabbit hole and significant added cost).

Discussion
Is there a takeaway from the traditional mounting of truck bed camper with T shaped bottom that could be applied and utilized when mounting a rectangular composite camper box on a basic non pivoting flatbed?

Can a rectangular composite box be supported by a narrow T shaped platform that doesn't extend to its outer corners?
 
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Great Topic!
We use a general rule with our flatbed campers: Any camper with a floor length longer than 8' should have the frame twist put in consideration with an isolating frame. All pending on the truck, these can get more complicated the longer they are.
A typical Flatbed usually increases the torsional stiffness of the truck and therefore I'm pretty confident that anything up to 8' floor length is fine.

When it comes to an actual subframe design and how much of the floor sqft it should cover all depends on the floor construction. Our floors are load bearing and can be driven on by forklifts (our commercial truck bodies share the same floor composition). For that we embed super strong FRP tubing every couple feet. Other manufacturers use steel cross members in the floor. In any case there is no specific general answer to this if you don't know how the floor is constructed.
 

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Great Topic!
We use a general rule with our flatbed campers: Any camper with a floor length longer than 8' should have the frame twist put in consideration with an isolating frame. All pending on the truck, these can get more complicated the longer they are.
A typical Flatbed usually increases the torsional stiffness of the truck and therefore I'm pretty confident that anything up to 8' floor length is fine.

When it comes to an actual subframe design and how much of the floor sqft it should cover all depends on the floor construction. Our floors are load bearing and can be driven on by forklifts (our commercial truck bodies share the same floor composition). For that we embed super strong FRP tubing every couple feet. Other manufacturers use steel cross members in the floor. In any case there is no specific general answer to this if you don't know how the floor is constructed.

Regarding the topic of floor support. Do you use the same arrangement of FRP tubing cross members every couple feet in all of the flatbed designs or just the larger habitat boxes? If you design the smaller flatbed campers in this way, what do you estimate to be the minimum required width of subframe underneath it? For example, if the box is 7.5' wide, it would only need longitudinal support under it that is 4' wide.
 
You must not assume that all chassis twist at the same rate. Different rates of twist allow different answers to the design.
My new build vehicle has a welded ladder frame chassis made from rectangular tube. It is very stiff compared with most. This allows a different assessment of how to mount the camper (it is a fixed habitat, not a "slide-in", so that adds another dimension). The maximum twist in the chassis is about 10mm.

There are 18 blocks of 25mm thick flexible polyurethane glued directly to the chassis. These allow some flex between the box and the chassis. To those blocks are glued 3 aluminium cross members (50 x 125 x 3mm) and a number of shorter aluminium tube supports.
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The PET foam composite floor is glued to the aluminium supports.
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To keep the engineers happy, there are also 2 steel cable "safety straps" attaching the floor to the chassis.
The emphasis of the build is weight reduction. The floor is also lower relative to the chassis compared to many designs.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 
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I'd like to focus on pickup trucks half ton - one ton including chassis cab.
If it's a fully boxed frame, then don't worry about it... If it's C channel in the back, then make a pivoting mechanism of some kind.

Note, the manufacturers of slide in campers expect that they will rarely be used, and definitely not used to drive on challenging trails. Manufacturers of utility boxes that are hard mounted to C channel don't expect you to be offroading either.

I made a simple articulating system (basically a 3 point) on mine using poly isolators. IMO it's superior to bushings, since it has a bit of give and can also easily spread out the load on the frame. Happy to go into detail if you are interested.
 
Interesting. I suppose everyone knows, I would not accept any of that as acceptable. Opinions. Everyone has one.

Mine supports a 145" floor, sitting on a 157" frame rails. With a 18" rear storage box.

Only steel on steel, for me. (5" c-channel) Using a 2x2 oak hardwood wood buffer between subframe and truck frame. (note: final design has a "X" crossmember in the center)

A main consideration for me was 70 mph crosswinds, and the fact that my rig is a 12 foot high sail.

(I just watched a video whereas 85mph winds flipped a 26 foot 5th wheel completely on its top)

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Circling back and trying to keep the conversation focused on pickup trucks with bolt on flat beds mated to detachable composite box campers. (Will add this comment to original post) My intention is to see if we can put our heads together and break out of the current conventional rut and come up with some new ideas.

Victorian's post about TC campers got me thinking about what can be done on the camper side?

Is there some sort of a spacer rigid or elastomeric or spring that could go between the composite box and flat bed?
 
Regarding the topic of floor support. Do you use the same arrangement of FRP tubing cross members every couple feet in all of the flatbed designs or just the larger habitat boxes? If you design the smaller flatbed campers in this way, what do you estimate to be the minimum required width of subframe underneath it? For example, if the box is 7.5' wide, it would only need longitudinal support under it that is 4' wide.
On our bigger expedition truck bodies we offer a 2' spacing between the FRP internal structure as a standard. Realizing that not every truck/subframe is the same, we can custom place them as required.
Subframe width: They should always be as wide as the actual truck frame.
Another reason why a subframe shouldn't be too massive/oversized is the thermal expansion of the metal vs the composite floor. Both have vastly different expansion/contraction values. Best if they are not made of Aluminum for that reason.
 
My intention is to see if we can put our heads together and break out of the current conventional rut and come up with some new ideas.
What I did matches that description... I've never seen anything like it. The Energy Suspension universal poly cab mounts are only ~$15 each. The rep told me they were good for 800 lb each but I think half that is a better bet. The soft ones I use pivot very well.

Like any pivoting system (vs springs) the ones with pivoting duty need to be on a centerline, so you'd need to bridge across the frame rails. All of my parts for this system weigh 106 lbs, with a little more to reinforce the camper floor at the attachment points.
 
What I did matches that description... I've never seen anything like it. The Energy Suspension universal poly cab mounts are only ~$15 each. The rep told me they were good for 800 lb each but I think half that is a better bet. The soft ones I use pivot very well.

Like any pivoting system (vs springs) the ones with pivoting duty need to be on a centerline, so you'd need to bridge across the frame rails. All of my parts for this system weigh 106 lbs, with a little more to reinforce the camper floor at the attachment points.
I guess I need a refresher on your system. I thought your box was direct mounted and not removable.

Overland explorer was doing some interesting things with demountable boxes. I'll have to go back and refresh my memory.

Looks like OEV is offering a flatbed option for their flatbed campers which is in line with what Victorian reports is working for theirs as well.

 
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