dyogim
Explorer
I was double checking the gears on the axle I just got last night. Come to find out, the ratio is actually 3.90. Oh well, going to run it as is and see how it does.
dyogim's 00 tundra build
- Thread starter dyogim
- Start date
I was double checking the gears on the axle I just got last night. Come to find out, the ratio is actually 3.90. Oh well, going to run it as is and see how it does.
dyogim
Explorer
Its been a while since my last update...
I am working on rebuilding a spare axle(comlete) with my detroit locker. As I was in the process of pressing on the races and bearings, i moved to bolting the ring gear to the locker. Low and behold the bolts that hold the locker togrther were loose. One even fell out because it had broken at the threads. So, now i'm having to rebuild the detroit and try to extract the broken threads. Should be fairly easy. Here's a couple of pics.
I am working on rebuilding a spare axle(comlete) with my detroit locker. As I was in the process of pressing on the races and bearings, i moved to bolting the ring gear to the locker. Low and behold the bolts that hold the locker togrther were loose. One even fell out because it had broken at the threads. So, now i'm having to rebuild the detroit and try to extract the broken threads. Should be fairly easy. Here's a couple of pics.
dyogim
Explorer
Extraction of the broken bold is a success. Picked up a $9 extractor set from harbor freight. Drilled a 1/8" hole through the middle of the broken bolt and use a #0 extractor bit. 5 mins later it was out. As far as why this happened or why the bolts were loose, I can't explain. However, I did notice that the thread locker Eaton used was below sub par. I would think thread locker should be seen all the way around the nut and filling up ~3 threads.
dyogim
Explorer
My thoughts exactly. Once I source the replacements bolts, I'll be using Red Loctite 262. That should keep it in place with the hight heat.
rickashay
Explorer
I've been creeping on this truck for a LONG time. It's a great truck and it seems to suite your purposes quite well. Props to being one of the first to go down the SAS road with the Tundra!
I'm currently debating my options for the rear end. My plan was to do a shackle flip, custom deavers, and a new shock mount to get a longer shock length while staying out of the bed of my Tundra (if possible). I;ve been doing more research over on Tacomaworld as a lot of the 2nd Gen Taco's also have the inverted shackle design. I've been gathering research and ideas on what works and what doesnt. I need a good balance of uptravel and down travel while only lifting the truck 2-2.5" in the rear. I was also poking around the 1st Gen Tacoma section and saw a lot of guys who do Chevy 63's. Now an hour later I end up on your thread, and I didnt even think to look what rear setup you were running.
How do you like the 63's? If you could do it again would you change anything? You look like your lifted fairly high in the rear but I see you have a 6" shackle and I think you said you were running an overload pack or some blocks? Any feedback or info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'm currently debating my options for the rear end. My plan was to do a shackle flip, custom deavers, and a new shock mount to get a longer shock length while staying out of the bed of my Tundra (if possible). I;ve been doing more research over on Tacomaworld as a lot of the 2nd Gen Taco's also have the inverted shackle design. I've been gathering research and ideas on what works and what doesnt. I need a good balance of uptravel and down travel while only lifting the truck 2-2.5" in the rear. I was also poking around the 1st Gen Tacoma section and saw a lot of guys who do Chevy 63's. Now an hour later I end up on your thread, and I didnt even think to look what rear setup you were running.
How do you like the 63's? If you could do it again would you change anything? You look like your lifted fairly high in the rear but I see you have a 6" shackle and I think you said you were running an overload pack or some blocks? Any feedback or info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
dyogim
Explorer
I really like the setup and I didn't't spend an arm and a leg for it. The payload increased over the stock tundra springs and seemed to perform better while off the paved road.. I was running an AAL in a set of stock 63" springs and a 1" block. This allowed me to level the truck with my front leaf springs. I then swapped them out for some Chevy lift springs and kept the 1" block. I would definitely do this swap again on another tundra without any changes.
My truck with the swap next to another 1gen with a 6"lift is about the same.
rickashay
Explorer
How much lift do your "lift springs" achieve? Are they a 2" lift spring for example? I'm hoping some stock 63's with a shackle flip and the factory shackle would net me around 2-3" lift.
Are you still using the factory shock mounts?
dyogim
Explorer
I had the shocks inverted in for the top mount and the lower mount tabs were welded on top of the axle housing "/ \". That was mainly good for crawlin' on the trails. Since, it sees more pavement, I reverted back to using the stock mounts. With stock chevy springs, you can definitely achive 2-3 inches of lift. The aftermarket chevy springs I have now supposedly gives 4" of lift, but seems it's more like 2". The guy I bought them from wasn't 100% either because they came with the rig he purchased.
Tonight, I'll measure from the top of the axle housing near the leaf springs to the lower part of the frame to at least give you an idea of the differnce with your current set-up and mine.
rickashay
Explorer
Thanks I really appreciate it. While your in there would you mind measuring you uptravel (theoretical) numbers from your strike pad to the top of your bump stop while at ride height? Just curious what kind of uptravel your getting... although I'm assuming your truck is bumped appropriately which I know not all trucks are.
dyogim
Explorer
I'm actually not running any bumpstops. Had taken them off when I swapped over to the aftermarket 63's. Plan on purchasing a new set to either mount to the top plate like stock or bolt it to the frame. Regardless, I'll take a several different measurements.
dyogim
Explorer
Sorry for the lag. I ended up staying late at work last week and got called to do some jobs. I'll get those measurements to you ASAP. I'm also in the middle of working on a house prior to the appraiser coming this thursday. So, there's a lot of scrambling going on to finish the "to-do" list.
rickashay
Explorer
No rush at all Mike... whenever your able to is fine by me! Thanks again.
dyogim
Explorer
Added 1 of 2 LED reverse lights. Cost for the pair $48 from amazon. Cost has gone up to $58 after only a week.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0YHL5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0YHL5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Jb1rd
Explorer
Now that is what I am talking about, I "upgraded my factory reverse bulbs with LEDs and they are anemic at best!!! Did you splice them directly into the reverse light wiring loom?
Added 1 of 2 LED reverse lights. Cost for the pair $48 from amazon. Cost has gone up to $58 after only a week.