Scott Brady
Founder
Just use synthetic line. Greatly reduces the missle hazard... 
Expeditions West 2004 Tacoma
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
Man I really like the synthetic line, so many great things about it.
I am actually replacing my winch line today if I can find the time.
My old line had three or four serious kinks in it from the old owner of the truck
not stowing the line properly. I got tired of pressing my luck and figured it was time to replace.
I found a guy who had just bought a new winch and upgraded to synthetic so he had a brand new 100'
length of 5/16" steel line. For $50 I could not resist and there are a few other mods on my list
ahead of a $250 synthetic line.
I am actually replacing my winch line today if I can find the time.
My old line had three or four serious kinks in it from the old owner of the truck
not stowing the line properly. I got tired of pressing my luck and figured it was time to replace.
I found a guy who had just bought a new winch and upgraded to synthetic so he had a brand new 100'
length of 5/16" steel line. For $50 I could not resist and there are a few other mods on my list
ahead of a $250 synthetic line.
p1michaud
Expedition Leader
Synthetic line on the way.
My synthetic line and synthetic hawse fairlead has been delivered. I just have to pick it up and install it. Safe and less weight up front. :jumping:
Cheer :beer:,
P
expeditionswest said:Just use synthetic line. Greatly reduces the missle hazard...
My synthetic line and synthetic hawse fairlead has been delivered. I just have to pick it up and install it. Safe and less weight up front. :jumping:
Cheer :beer:,
P
mountainpete
Spamicus Eliminatus
p1michaud said:
Where did you order it from? Were you able to find a good supplier in Canada?
Scott Brady
Founder
I got the synthetic line from Roadless Gear and the fairlead from Fourtreks
p1michaud
Expedition Leader
Better and cheaper in the US
mountainpete,
Unfortunately I had to order throught the states because I could not justify paying an extra $400 to 500 by purchasing in Canada.
The winch came from justliftkits via eBay. Call them, great phone service, but they are a bit slow to answer e-mails.
Synthetic line came from RockStomper great price and service.
The UHMW fairlead came from SKY-Manufacturing cheap but I'd go with Fourtreks unit. See here for reasons.
Cheers :beer:,
P
mountainpete said:
mountainpete,
Unfortunately I had to order throught the states because I could not justify paying an extra $400 to 500 by purchasing in Canada.
The winch came from justliftkits via eBay. Call them, great phone service, but they are a bit slow to answer e-mails.
Synthetic line came from RockStomper great price and service.
The UHMW fairlead came from SKY-Manufacturing cheap but I'd go with Fourtreks unit. See here for reasons.
Cheers :beer:,
P
The BN Guy
Expedition Leader
I didn't realize synthrope was that inexpensive! Good prices for what I need!
vanguard
Adventurer
Scott,
First of all, I really like your rig and appreciate your website. Newbs like me learn a lot from it. I've been thinking of following your footsteps with the 255/85/16 BFG MTs and I'm wondering why you replaced the stock wheels. Is it just the chromophobia or was there something else about the stock wheels that you were looking to improve on?
Thanks in advance.
First of all, I really like your rig and appreciate your website. Newbs like me learn a lot from it. I've been thinking of following your footsteps with the 255/85/16 BFG MTs and I'm wondering why you replaced the stock wheels. Is it just the chromophobia or was there something else about the stock wheels that you were looking to improve on?
Thanks in advance.
Scott Brady
Founder
:wavey: Great to have you on the forum!
The stock wheels work great with the 255/85. Here is a picture of Brets Tacoma with that configuration:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2005/Coke_ovens/pages/DSCF7324_JPG.htm
I chose the steel wheels for three minor reasons. I wanted a little less offset (4") which widened my track by 1". I wanted black wheels (less flashyness in a third world country) and I wanted the "repairability" of a steel wheel.
The stock wheels work great with the 255/85. Here is a picture of Brets Tacoma with that configuration:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2005/Coke_ovens/pages/DSCF7324_JPG.htm
I chose the steel wheels for three minor reasons. I wanted a little less offset (4") which widened my track by 1". I wanted black wheels (less flashyness in a third world country) and I wanted the "repairability" of a steel wheel.
vanguard
Adventurer
Thanks for the reply. I forget where I read it but somebody on the internet predicted that those tires wouldn't fit under the bed without modification. It seems unlikely that you would leave that off your website but if it's on the internet it must be true.
So, will I be able to fit the spare in the stock position without breaking out the grinder?
So, will I be able to fit the spare in the stock position without breaking out the grinder?
Scott Brady
Founder
No, the spare tire will not fit under the truck without modification. I have a swing-out tire rack.
I know that Bret made it work by bending or cutting two of the spare tire supports. Goodtimes might know what he did.
I know that Bret made it work by bending or cutting two of the spare tire supports. Goodtimes might know what he did.
Scott Brady
Founder
Well, I am now working on the water system. I have the Hubbell water heater with 450watt element, the water tank and a cool little FloJet pressure pump.
I do have a question for you super cool contractor/plumber types:
I need to mount the one gallon water heater vertically. The water inlet is at the bottom of the unit and the outlet is at the top. While the heating element is running there MUST be water in the hot water tank or it will burn the element out. So without having to run the pressure pump while the element is on, how can I keep the water from draining out of the hot water heater?
Normally, it is not a problem and a house has constant pressure. Can I use a one way valve? What is the best quality and can almost guarantee no bleed back? I do not want to use a manual valve, as access it a pain.
I thought about just looping the inlet hose from the tank to the pressure pump and then higher that the outlet of the hot water heater to prevent drain back, but is that fool proof?
Here is a general mounting image for reference:
Come on, save me a few hours of research (I am normally that anal about mods, but I have no time right now :Wow1: )
I do have a question for you super cool contractor/plumber types:
I need to mount the one gallon water heater vertically. The water inlet is at the bottom of the unit and the outlet is at the top. While the heating element is running there MUST be water in the hot water tank or it will burn the element out. So without having to run the pressure pump while the element is on, how can I keep the water from draining out of the hot water heater?
Normally, it is not a problem and a house has constant pressure. Can I use a one way valve? What is the best quality and can almost guarantee no bleed back? I do not want to use a manual valve, as access it a pain.
I thought about just looping the inlet hose from the tank to the pressure pump and then higher that the outlet of the hot water heater to prevent drain back, but is that fool proof?
Here is a general mounting image for reference:
Come on, save me a few hours of research (I am normally that anal about mods, but I have no time right now :Wow1: )
BajaTaco
Swashbuckler
Scott, I would just use a spring-loaded check valve like this , which can be installed in a vertical or horizontal position. I don't know what you plan to plumb the line with, but these are typically bronze - you can get them with standard pipe thread or or solder-end if you want to use copper.
If you want to be absolutely, positively, analistically (LOL) sure that there is no backflow, you could get something like this (brass one) or this used for well service. There is a place right by your house called Hughes Supply that should have at least basic spring checks.
If you want to be absolutely, positively, analistically (LOL) sure that there is no backflow, you could get something like this (brass one) or this used for well service. There is a place right by your house called Hughes Supply that should have at least basic spring checks.
Nullifier
Expedition Leader
Scott Maybe this is stupid on my part but is there some reason why switching off the heater when you are not using it would be a problem. I would think placing an on off switch would solve your problem unless you have a specific reason for wanting the heater always full of water. In fact I would bet you can set up 1 switch for the pump and heater so there is no chance of forgeting to turn on the pump. I wouldn't think it would take more then 10-15 minutes to heat up the water once it was turned on. That is surely less time then it takes to set up camp anyway.
Probably missing something here by going for the obvious but that is how we I have seen it set up on some boats.
Probably missing something here by going for the obvious but that is how we I have seen it set up on some boats.
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Desertdude
Expedition Leader
Those fine check valves Chris posted would be the only automatic way of keeping the water inside the tank. I am not sure you could get a loop high enough to guarantee it. Check valves <can> fail over time depending on the type of water. Making a normal pressure system and running the pump before switching the heater on could also work.