Hello Miss FJ62. Flaco's dream.
- Thread starter LaOutbackTrail
- Start date
But, wouldnt that effectively make the air pump non functional?
Remember I do not have a grasp on this system's dynamics...
Remember I do not have a grasp on this system's dynamics...
Here is an image showing the Cali-spec EGR arrangement. If you are missing the sensor, you have a 49 state "federal" truck. If you do have the sensor, a computer swap should do away with the CEL if you desmog her.
Nope, mine has a bolt like plug in that spot.
njtaco
Explorer
Then the only way the computer is going to interpret what is going on with the EGR/emissions equipment is via the O2 sensors, which "close the loop" for fuel delivery. You should be fine desmogging as far as that is concerned. My lungs may not thank you though! lol...
There are several ways to desmog that are non-invasive as well. One way is to plug the vac lines with BBs, another is to cap the two primary vac lines up by the throttle body. A third invoves re-routing existing lines, so it can most easily be reversed for smog testing. Any of these ways effectively disable the EGR system. THese methods (and more) are spelled out on 'mud, as you probably know by now.
There are several ways to desmog that are non-invasive as well. One way is to plug the vac lines with BBs, another is to cap the two primary vac lines up by the throttle body. A third invoves re-routing existing lines, so it can most easily be reversed for smog testing. Any of these ways effectively disable the EGR system. THese methods (and more) are spelled out on 'mud, as you probably know by now.
A couple photos.
The EGR valve. Cleaned it with a wire wheel and B-12
Bolt organization. "PCV valve-- DUH!"
Bella check out what I was up to.
The EGR valve. Cleaned it with a wire wheel and B-12
Bolt organization. "PCV valve-- DUH!"
Bella check out what I was up to.
Truck is running. Much better. But my idle is pretty high, about 500 more than it needs to be. Idle adjustment screw is all the way in. Soap-watered all the vacuum hoses and found no leaks.
How do I test the vacuum to see if do in fact have a vacuum leak? Is there anything else that might need adjustment?
How do I test the vacuum to see if do in fact have a vacuum leak? Is there anything else that might need adjustment?
Yes. Sat out for several days.
RPM is about 300 more than normal (always ran high) but I cant get it to go down.
I wonder if the EGR system is in fact messed up? I also wonder if removing the EGR would help anything?
njtaco
Explorer
On TOP of the throttle body there are two vac lines, EGR and EGR-b IIRC. Disconnect them and cap both the hoses and the ports. Tag them for later. If you mix them up (if you reconnect them) you will fail emissions for NOx. (DAMHIK)
What "idle screw" did you screw all the way in? Not the "golden screw" right? The one on the IAC valve should be about 1-1/2 turns out, IIRC. It varies from truck to truck. Idle is set on the throttle body (with the jumper in I think), while you are setting the timing. Then the TPS has to be recalibrated to the new idle setting. The whole process is a bit of a PIA.
Are you working with a service manual?
Oh, don't forget that any vac leaks into the block (like the dipstick tube, the valve cover bolt seals, etc. ) can screw with you too.
Have you replaced the accordion hose yet?
Running pretty well, I still need to adjust the valves on it. I've actually been busy in the last few weeks.:sombrero:
Similar threads
