Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!

[Overlandtowater]

If you upgrade to the gmt900 set up you can do away with the junk star style bolt....Mine came with out a problem but I was told the GMT900 brakes do not have the star bolt. I run 16" rims other wise I would have went with the bigger ones.

 

[Buddha.]

If you upgrade to the gmt900 set up you can do away with the junk star style bolt....Mine came with out a problem but I was told the GMT900 brakes do not have the star bolt. I run 16" rims other wise I would have went with the bigger ones.

My truck is a 2011 2500 so I think I'm already working with the biggest oem stuff. Hopefully I didn't fry my new pads/rotors. I drove about 2 miles round trip before I decided they weren't gonna work like that. When I stopped to turn around they were a little smoky, lol.

 

[Kowblansky01]

Hey guys, sorry to hijack the chat, I just got a quick question...
I recently leveled my chevy suburban about 2 inches with aftermarket keys. Before I had installed it, the bump stops were constantly sitting on the Lower Contol Arms of the truck (Which I have checked to be normal- as in they are supposed to be in contact for my truck). However, after the level kit, the front bumps stops no longer touch the lower control arms. I was wondering whether these timbren bump stops are long enough to be able to contact the lower control arms with the 2-inch level kit, or are they the same length as OEM bump stops? If not, what brands have you guys used for trucks like mine so that the front suspension is sitting correctly regarding the bump stops? Let me know.

Link for the timbren Bump stops: https://www.amazon.com/Timbren-GMFK...004UR368M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[rayra]

Don't know who told you they are supposed to be in contact, but not in my understanding. That's a sign of torsion bar fatigue or maladjustment, far as I know.
I mean think about it, it's a BUMP STOP to limit travel, not a shock absorber. Why would it be in contact all the time, totally infringing on range of motion?

My wife's Tahoe was new to us and never in contact, even as it approached 200k mi. Never took a wrench to her '05 k1500 Z71, here's how it sat -

I put the non Z71 factory bumpstops on my Sub, after the same Rancho leveling keys, with a little bit of crank for a level height, with tired rear springs and 2" rear spring spacers, with about 300# of gear / platform / drawers in the back all the time.

My Sub when bought used with 116k mi -

Side by side of standard 'beehive' stops and chewed up Z71, when I put fresh in my Sub

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I was under the impression they were supposed to be almost kissing them, 1/4 to a inch away.

Maybe that's just for the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks like mine though.

Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote. With my entertainment and navigation multitool

 

[Kowblansky01]

Don't know who told you they are supposed to be in contact, but not in my understanding. That's a sign of torsion bar fatigue or maladjustment, far as I know.
I mean think about it, it's a BUMP STOP to limit travel, not a shock absorber. Why would it be in contact all the time, totally infringing on range of motion?

My wife's Tahoe was new to us and never in contact, even as it approached 200k mi. Never took a wrench to her '05 k1500 Z71, here's how it sat -

I put the non Z71 factory bumpstops on my Sub, after the same Rancho leveling keys, with a little bit of crank for a level height, with tired rear springs and 2" rear spring spacers, with about 300# of gear / platform / drawers in the back all the time.

My Sub when bought used with 116k mi -

Side by side of standard 'beehive' stops and chewed up Z71, when I put fresh in my Sub

I was browsing around on the interweb and heard it in several different forums. Also on the instructions of the timbren it says that they should be in contact since the bump stops are part of the suspension.... more than just a limiting factor from traveling down too much. I checked my 2006 suburban (I got 2 burbs- 05 and 06) and it had no level kit and the bump stops were resting on the LCA... I might try to contact timbren and asked them what they think.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

If I was home, ( sadly been working medical contracts all around the states the last month or so) I would check my Chilton and see what it says. Kinda wish I could go look at mine and see, it's been a while since I rebuilt the front end, as now Im really curious as to if I have mine set up right.

Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote. With my entertainment and navigation multitool

 

[rayra]

[redacted]

nevermind, ****** do I know, you're only 54pgs deep in a boomer's topic about wrenching on GMT800s and Vortec motors.

 

[Kowblansky01]

Called them up and guess what... closed due to COVID. Anyways has anyone got anything to say about the Cognito UCA for a 2005 Chevy suburban? I’m thinking about running them as they help keep the trucks factory geometry. And possibly Bilstein 5100 all around.

 

[supermoto65]

I was under the impression they were supposed to be almost kissing them, 1/4 to a inch away.

Maybe that's just for the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks like mine though.

Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote. With my entertainment and navigation multitool

They are called jounce bumpers or stops and are an integral part of the torsion bar suspension ... they should almost touch. You can buy these ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN7CU6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and drill a hole in the lower "pad" on the control arm where the jounce normally hits ... then trim these so they almost touch the jounce bumpers.

 

[Kowblansky01]

They are called jounce bumpers or stops and are an integral part of the torsion bar suspension ... they should almost touch. You can buy these ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN7CU6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and drill a hole in the lower "pad" on the control arm where the jounce normally hits ... then trim these so they almost touch the jounce bumpers.

Yeah that’s what I expected. Mine are more like 1-2 inches off the LCA. Although that is a viable option, I would rather not have to modify the mounting location of the original stop. Thats why I’m wondering if those timbrens will fit. And also the LCA metal is pretty thick which will be hard to make a hole.

 

[rayra]

I'll say it once more then leave it alone. You're chasing something that isn't necessary or even desirable for off-roading. You WANT that gap. Or you are going to 'jounce' and jostle on every bump you hit, instead of leaving the suspension room to articulate / compress and not bottom out on that stop prematurely. I've had a '99 Tahoe new to ~150k mi, an '05 Tahoe new thru 200k mi and bought my '02 Sub at 116k mi and NONE of them were ever closer than a finger span. The only ones I ever saw in contact was when looking for used Subs with a lot of miles and crapped out sagging suspensions. btw, that's one of the reasons the factory torsion keys have such a wide range of adjustment, to make up the sag in the wearing torsion bars.
Ask the GMT800 owners with unmodified front suspensions to give you pictures, since you only seem to want to accept info that confirms your wrong belief that they should touch. These's aren't street trucks looking for cornering performance and stiffness.
Unless you can find a manufacturer source for what that geometry is supposed to be, I think you are putting bad information in this topic. And I don't care what timbren or any aftermarket vendor says about it, they've got a product to sell.

 

[rayra]

The fuel tank drop / pump replacement, u-joint replacements and template-making for a fuel tank protection plate starts this weekend, weather permitting.
I've got all the parts and getting the 1/8" pressboard tomorrow for the template making. I'm trying to make a 3-piece design that will attach to the frame rail and to the crossmember leading the tank, with the plates Z-bent to tuck in between the tank saddle straps and the tank. It's not meant as a weight bearing skidplate but rather a second metal skin on the bottom of the plastic fuel tank. Not sure about standoff from the tank surface, without creating a bigger problem than I'm trying to guard against. Thinking 3/16" aluminum plate eventually. Trying to design something easy to install, easy to ship, if others are interested in it.

 

[Overlandtowater]

Well

My truck is a 2011 2500 so I think I'm already working with the biggest oem stuff. Hopefully I didn't fry my new pads/rotors. I drove about 2 miles round trip before I decided they weren't gonna work like that. When I stopped to turn around they were a little smoky, lol.

My right front hung up today and I smoked it.... appears the fronts were jealous of all the new stuff I put on the rear.

 

[Buddha.]

Well

My right front hung up today and I smoked it.... appears the fronts were jealous of all the new stuff I put on the rear.

It's always something needs fixing.