It Starts (22R-E Rebuild)

[Grim Reaper]

What did the short block run you?

 

[Grim Reaper]

That's not a bad price. I was expecting it to be considerably higher.

 

[Clutch]

Looking great Dave.

 

[Nonprophet]

Woo-hoo!:wings:

Congrats Dave! My first rebuild was a VW 1600 upright, and I had no clue really what I was doing (just had the "Idiots Guide to VW repair book") and I too was totally shocked when it actually fired up and ran! I sold that bus to a friend a few years later, he would up getting 187,000 on my rebuild--not bad for a VW!!!


NP

 

[Scott Brady]

Wow, a lot of work Dave, but certainly worth it! I look forward to your initial driving impressions. :wings:

 

[Erick Lihme]

Decide whether it is fuel/air mixture, or secondary electrical.

Clue: "Cold idle is OK, but once it warms up the engine does not seem happy. "

Hip shot: It fuel/air.

Check for vacum leaks.... the tube from AFM to throttle body,to injector gromets, injectors connections...

 

[Grim Reaper]

Check the EGR. If the hoses are wrong it may try to open the valve at idle. Start by just unplugging it at the valve and see if it clears.

Also look for vacuum leaks.

 

[wesel123]

I had the same problem on my 22-R rebuild. I found one disconnected vacume hose.

Gotta love Emision's Control:wings:

 

[Grim Reaper]

I skimmed through so you may have thought about this.

Cold start injector still running when warm?

Mine with the 268 cam has a decided lope. It seems to have calmed some with break in but still noticable when it leans out when warm.

 

[Erick Lihme]

. The AFM (Air Flow Meter) could be confusing the ECM because with the headers, high flow head and different cam the engine is sucking far more air than before and so the ECM might not know to increase fuel.

At least it could be contributing to the idle problem. From reading on the subject over the years, there is a fair chance you'll have to adjust it rich 3 teeth anyway. As you are doing, give it time to learn and see if there's an improvement, then consider adjusting the AFM. I don't know the mileage on it, and it may be good to consider changing the O2 sensor before adjusting the AFM.

Congrates on dialing in on that power band. Sounds like it's gonna be a great motor.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Yeah, I thought the cold start and that's certainly still an option. I had it cleaned with the other 4 injectors, so I'm going with the thought that it's probably not leaking. But if the ECU thinks the engine temp is low, it might trigger the cold start circuit. That is ultimately controlled by the ECT sensor.

I do think some of the roughness is related to a more aggressive cam, so I might be chasing to some extent something that can't be solved. Have to see how it does after a month or so. I've only got about 100 miles on it, so it's also still breaking in and the ECU is relearning the engine. I think we're on the same page diagnosis-wise here Grim.

Cold start runs independent of the ECM. The ECM could see the correct temp but the temp sender for the cold start could still have the injector on and not trip the light. Also it would be running open loop at idle so the ECM would ignore the O2 sensor.


http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=112 7M but the 22Re is the same set up and resistance values.

I have had to replace my cold start temp sender. It was giving me some run issues including rich idle and poor fuel economy. Never threw a light.