Lucky8’s Project Discovery 3

[Eniam17]

I watched that run Zack, it was awesome! Definitely not taking anything away from you as that was NOT easy, I just noticed that those who stayed to the left actually had a chance, those who got sucked down to the right got buried where Justin's 3 did.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Dude, you seriously need to read about your truck. As I have said hundreds of times, the Modern Rover is completely different than old school stuff. LEARN IT.

Thank you. This is the response I was after. I was a nay sayer when the 3 came out. Now I'm eating a bit of crow looking for all the tips and tricks from you 3rd generation old timers

Kill DSC as soon as you leave pavement. It applies the brakes and kills the throttle, and it is NOT traction control.
.

I can't wait for the next event to try this out

Go here: http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/owners-manuals/

Start with the last document in the list, "Terrain_Response, An Innovative Integrated Traction System for the Land Rover Vehicles” – white paper on the theory behind the Terrain Response design and programing (792kb PDF)

Thank you and I did

 

[Fivespddisco]

Justin's terrain response issues in the deep snow sounds identical to what I've seen. Sand mode tended to work best overall but an "off" button to completely disable it and a simple "lock" for the diffs would be the best solution. But that is just my opinion.

Can we all say " GAP"

 

[Fivespddisco]

DSC off for sure. That would definitely ruin your day.

Could have used you in Maine

 

[Fivespddisco]

I'm pretty sure the LR3 got stuck on that snowy hill on Friday night because because you have rear mud flaps on

After you guys left that hill where the 3 was buried off to the right of the trail and the P38 was winching it out, the only vehicles that made it up were ones that stayed high and to the left. Everyone that sunk down toward the right where you were stuck got buried. Locked series trucks on 34's, locked D1's on 35's, everyone was stuck there FWIW.

It was the mud flaps !!!!!

 

[Fivespddisco]

I started up that trail after Justin had just been winched out. I was trying to stay high and to the left, center locked and rear locked in my D2.

Couldn't for the life of me make any progress. Realized my buddy in the car had unlocked my center diff to move my truck out of the way earlier, was driving with 1 front tire

I believe you. :shakin:

 

[mpinco]

................. With all "control systems" ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_engineering ), ignore the owners manual at your own risk.

 

[spikemd]

I need to do some reading myself on terrain response. Will now re-read this whole thread since I picked up my LR3.

Here is a pic of my new-to-me LR3 across from my P38.

 

[nwoods]

Here is a pic of my new-to-me LR3 across from my P38.
View attachment 215550

Congrat's! Best of both worlds I think. I love the looks of the P38. Here is all the instruction you need, in a nutshell:
1. Turn off DSC when wheels leave pavement
2. If in a low traction environment (slick rocks, wheels in the air, etc..). GENTLE, STEADY throttle pressure is what you need to engage the traction control. Do NOT let off the throttle. Do NOT hit the brakes, let the TC figure out what it wants to do and then simply drive out. They key really is steady gentle throttle pressure for about 90% of your scenarios
3. Take a different line! Unlike earlier vehicles, there is no pumpkin to worry about, but the gas tank is low, and your exhaust pipes are sensitively low as well. Your best bet is to get the major rocks directly under your tires along the running board area.
4. TURNING RADIUS! The LR3/4 has an AMAZING turning radius. This will radically change your line in the rock gardens. Compensate for it, take advantage of it
5. Big butt and low front end. It's not as dangly as a D2, but it's not short back there either. Use that turning radius to your advantage, approach large rocks and ledges at an angle, get your front wheels up on them without touching the bumper, and then as your rear approached, turn in the opposite direction to "shorten" the relative overhang. Works every time.
6. You've got totally bomber recovery points built in. Use a dime turn the screws 90 degrees and pop off the front and rear covers in the bumpers, and you will find hellastout recovery points.
7. Hill Decent works....maybe too well. I hardly ever used it, but know this: It works in reverse (handy!) and the cruise control buttons regulate speed. D2's can't do this.
8. There is a very effective rev limiter that cuts off fuel (and ignition spark?) to the motor. So drop it into Low Range, pop into 3rd gear, and attack those sand dunes or mud fields with full throttle enthusiasm if you want to. You can't blow it.
9. Running shifts. You can drop into Low Range while moving. Just coast in neutral under 15mph and pop it into low range, blip the throttle then nudge it back to Drive and resume desired speed (under 60 in low range). To get out of Low Range into High range, same thing. Coast in neutral, switch to High range, then pop it back into Drive. Can do this up to 30 mph no problem. It's very handy to not have to stop to switch your transfer case.
10. Read up on the theory behind the Terrain Control so that you can understand what effects it has on the truck, so can you make intelligent decisions on when to use which mode

Bonus Tip: Use Command Shift for more fun.
Extra Bonus tip: Reset your computers learned driving behavior by pulling both battery cables off the terminals, touching them together for 30 seconds or so. This will "reflash" your systems profile memory, and will allow you to teach your rig all new driving behavior (shift points, acceleration curves, etc...). Handy for new owners of used LR3's.

Post lots of photos, and if you are ever in SoCal, look me up for personalized LR3 specific trail training

 

[brickpaul65]

I have never pulled off the transfer case change while moving. I will definitely try the method you posted!

 

[spikemd]

Congrat's! Best of both worlds I think. I love the looks of the P38. Here is all the instruction you need, in a nutshell:
1. Turn off DSC when wheels leave pavement
2. If in a low traction environment (slick rocks, wheels in the air, etc..). GENTLE, STEADY throttle pressure is what you need to engage the traction control. Do NOT let off the throttle. Do NOT hit the brakes, let the TC figure out what it wants to do and then simply drive out. They key really is steady gentle throttle pressure for about 90% of your scenarios
3. Take a different line! Unlike earlier vehicles, there is no pumpkin to worry about, but the gas tank is low, and your exhaust pipes are sensitively low as well. Your best bet is to get the major rocks directly under your tires along the running board area.
4. TURNING RADIUS! The LR3/4 has an AMAZING turning radius. This will radically change your line in the rock gardens. Compensate for it, take advantage of it
5. Big butt and low front end. It's not as dangly as a D2, but it's not short back there either. Use that turning radius to your advantage, approach large rocks and ledges at an angle, get your front wheels up on them without touching the bumper, and then as your rear approached, turn in the opposite direction to "shorten" the relative overhang. Works every time.
6. You've got totally bomber recovery points built in. Use a dime turn the screws 90 degrees and pop off the front and rear covers in the bumpers, and you will find hellastout recovery points.
7. Hill Decent works....maybe too well. I hardly ever used it, but know this: It works in reverse (handy!) and the cruise control buttons regulate speed. D2's can't do this.
8. There is a very effective rev limiter that cuts off fuel (and ignition spark?) to the motor. So drop it into Low Range, pop into 3rd gear, and attack those sand dunes or mud fields with full throttle enthusiasm if you want to. You can't blow it.
9. Running shifts. You can drop into Low Range while moving. Just coast in neutral under 15mph and pop it into low range, blip the throttle then nudge it back to Drive and resume desired speed (under 60 in low range). To get out of Low Range into High range, same thing. Coast in neutral, switch to High range, then pop it back into Drive. Can do this up to 30 mph no problem. It's very handy to not have to stop to switch your transfer case.
10. Read up on the theory behind the Terrain Control so that you can understand what effects it has on the truck, so can you make intelligent decisions on when to use which mode

Bonus Tip: Use Command Shift for more fun.
Extra Bonus tip: Reset your computers learned driving behavior by pulling both battery cables off the terminals, touching them together for 30 seconds or so. This will "reflash" your systems profile memory, and will allow you to teach your rig all new driving behavior (shift points, acceleration curves, etc...). Handy for new owners of used LR3's.

Post lots of photos, and if you are ever in SoCal, look me up for personalized LR3 specific trail training

Great tips, thanks! I have seen some of those pointers in action with Kevin (who bought your coiler) on the trails. A steady throttle seems to be key to gaining traction on obstacles. I am also amazed at the tight turning radius of these LR3s and it will be a benefit on the trail. Didn't know that the cruise control buttons helped descent control. One grip I have with the P38 is when ABS kicks in down a steep descent. I need to keep it in 1st low with no brake control, but the pucker factor is high. I am looking forward to getting the LR3 dirty soon!

 

[jh.]

Extra Bonus tip: Reset your computers learned driving behavior by pulling both battery cables off the terminals, touching them together for 30 seconds or so. This will "reflash" your systems profile memory, and will allow you to teach your rig all new driving behavior (shift points, acceleration curves, etc...). Handy for new owners of used LR3's.

Really? Does this work with all modern rovers or just the LR3? What does touching the cables do to cause a "reflash" ?

 

[David Harris]

Really? Does this work with all modern rovers or just the LR3? What does touching the cables do to cause a "reflash" ?

Pretty much anything with an ECU. Just make sure you disconnect both!

 

[zelatore]

Just make sure you disconnect both!

Uh yeah. Unless you feel the need for some extra excitement in your life.

 

[ZG]

I mean, just look at how big those nerfs are...