Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
H
Hank
Guest
Why did the "Engineer" not understand this beforehand?
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I've very seldom had problems with brake fluid either. My first track day I ever did in a Mustang, I went out with... whatever the hell was in there. I had full fluid fade and almost wrecked the car. Pretty scary stuff. In the middle of a session, the brake pedal just "evaporated" and went to the floor going into Carousel at Tremblent/St.Jovite . That's fluid fade. Only some pumping got it woahed down enough that I could negotiate the corner.
After that, I always bled with fresh Ford HD fluid on my track cars, prior to every event. The Ford HD stuff is cheap, and easily available. It's got a higher dry boiling point than the ATE, but a low wet boiling point. You want to change it regularly. Yearly in a street car, or before every track day.
Now, once we're considering using good quality fresh fluid, IMO the pads will always give it up long before you'll boil the fluid. Typical "knee point" on a street pad is around 500-600 degrees. Beyond that, you'll have a pedal, but it won't do much no matter how hard you push. That's pad fade. Your fluid will always be much cooler than your pads. I've never had a problem using fresh Ford HD fluid, even in applications that have reduced high performance street pads to the backing plates in 30 minutes. On my current trackday setup, I'm using an 800° pad in a Wilwood FSL caliper, and the Ford HD still isn't fazed even when the pads start to lose it.
All that being said: I'm reconsidering what I use in the truck after looking at this more closely because of this thread. The fluid in my truck which is slightly less than a year old, it's in pretty bad shape. Much worse than any other street application I've seen using the same fluid. I disagree that the underhood of a Rover is hotter or more harsh a racing car. Well, at least in my case. The mechanical fan is always swinging, even when the radiator doesn't need it, pushing the warm air out. Also evidenced by the fact that nothing underhood is melted. I have lots of melted stuff under the hood of my track car by comparison.
I think the deterioration of the fluid is more due to the conditions, particularly splashing through water. I haven't had an problems with braking, other than the pedal is a little squishy. But, I'm not happy with the performance of the fluid in this application, probably due to the high moisture absorbtion of the Ford HD. If I changed it more regularly (more than yearly) it would probably be fine. Since I don't want to do that, I'll probably look for something else. Might try the ATE and see if it seems to last longer. I'll change it yearly anyway, I'd never go 3 years on ANY fluid, but I like to see it nice and clean when it comes out. I believe a lot of the Three Amigos problems on the DII are due to dirty fluid gumming up the solenoid unit.
The problem in Canada is always getting things reasonably affordably. I bet the $15 bottle will become $50 by the time I see it.
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JSQ
Adventurer
That's lame.
I thought ExPo was all about the "True to the experience", "One life. Live it." sort of mantras.
Why would you then contrive this artificial vernacular to talk about expeditions and vehicles? If anything I'd say that the language of overlanding becomes progressively more coarse.
If someone nearly wads it up bouncing through some whoops in Anza Borrego I don't exclaim, "Golly! That was a humdinger. They nearly damaged their vehicle!"
Likewise If I'm replacing a broken CV on the Rubicon and I drop my wheel bearing into the dust it's unlikely I'll comment, "Shoot! Darn!"
And when you're almost through the end of your route in Mexico, but just calculated you won't have enough fuel unless you turn around immediately, no one says "If we run out of fuel here we'll be totally in a bad position and it's hot as heck.
Please, give me a break.
This censored language just makes everything sound totally fake.
One doesn't have to swear all the time to express themselves. I don't go through the day cursing everything. But there are certainly times where it's the norm, if not appropriate.
Photog
Explorer
I can see it now. My next build thread will have the title: "Expedition Citron Build - Hi Jacks welcome":jump:
Hi Jack - off.:sombrero:
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
michaelgroves
Explorer
While this seems contrary to conventional theory I've found that the ATE Super Blue lasts so long and performs so well in my LRs because it tolerates heat and contamination better than conventional brake fluids like the Castrol GTLMA that we always used at the shop.
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I also like the blue color whether it's road legal in your state or not. It makes it easier to do that quick visual check of the reservoir and it's easier to see when bleeding the brakes through clear tube. Some people even alternate between the amber ATE and the blue when they flush so they know exactly when the old stuff is getting pushed out.
All good info! Much appreciated. I'm going to see if it's available here in the UK.
Scott Brady
Founder
The 3.90:1 diffs with Air Lockers just arrived at the shop from GBR. They did the best packing job I have seen on a set of third members.
I am now working on compiling every little item needed to service the front and rear axle, including seals, bearings, upgraded axle shafts, brakes, etc.
I have also decided to do a short trip to Utah with the Disco next week. I hope to get a few nice images to post up here.
We also just installed a Columbia Rovers fuel tank skid-plate. It is a beautifully constructed piece and light weight. I had it powder coated mat black...
More images soon!
I am now working on compiling every little item needed to service the front and rear axle, including seals, bearings, upgraded axle shafts, brakes, etc.
I have also decided to do a short trip to Utah with the Disco next week. I hope to get a few nice images to post up here.
We also just installed a Columbia Rovers fuel tank skid-plate. It is a beautifully constructed piece and light weight. I had it powder coated mat black...
More images soon!
H
Hank
Guest
Just curious as to why you went with the 3.90:1 gear sets.
Scott Brady
Founder
I will be installing a 300TDI within the next 12 months, and the 3.90:1 is the ideal ratio for that motor with the 245/75 R16 tire.
Otherwise, I would have gone with the new 4.14:1 ratio if I was going to keep the 3.9 V8
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
What swayed you to the 300Tdi as opposed to the IH 2.8PS?
Trying to decide which I want in mine.
Trying to decide which I want in mine.
JSQ
Adventurer
I doubt it really matters that much at the end of the day.
They're both good.
I debated about which motor I would put in my 110, and I settled on the 300Tdi, but it wasn't because I thought the 2.8PS was inferior.
If anything I just got the feeling that the IH motor was just a bit trendier. You can really see that progression on the D-90 source. Those guys are all about the one-upsmanship. First it was the cool MMMM to do a 300Tdi conversion, but then so many people did those that it got played out and the cool cats started doing the 2.8PS. What really cracked me up was the people who pulled perfectly good 300Tdi's and swapped in 2.8s. It's one thing if you're truck came with a three hundy but you like the IH better and switch. But to have gone to all the time and expense of a 300Tdi conversion on a V8 truck and then swap out for something which is arguably only slightly better if at all? That just seems crazy.
Now Td5 vs 300Tdi/2.8PS... there's a discussion to be had there.
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Well, I haven't followed it enough to know if it's trendy. I read D90 source, but haven't really read much on the details of the two engines, or whose doing what.
Right now the 2.8 conversion from M&D (which is supposedly complete) would probably run $8500-$9000 to your door, compared to maybe $3000 for a 300Tdi, but you have a brand new engine with the 2.8. And you may or may not have to be getting extra bits for the 300 conversion.
From what I've read in the UK, where 2.8 really makes a difference is with the autobox.
ABout 4 years ago I talked to the factory in Brazil and they sent me an agreement for a 2.8ps for $4,000 FOB Brazil, but it was good for only 30 days and they took longer than that to answer some questions I had so I missed out.
As for the TD5, well, you can probably guess my thoughts on that engine.
Right now the 2.8 conversion from M&D (which is supposedly complete) would probably run $8500-$9000 to your door, compared to maybe $3000 for a 300Tdi, but you have a brand new engine with the 2.8. And you may or may not have to be getting extra bits for the 300 conversion.
From what I've read in the UK, where 2.8 really makes a difference is with the autobox.
ABout 4 years ago I talked to the factory in Brazil and they sent me an agreement for a 2.8ps for $4,000 FOB Brazil, but it was good for only 30 days and they took longer than that to answer some questions I had so I missed out.
As for the TD5, well, you can probably guess my thoughts on that engine.
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Scott Brady
Founder
The 110 has the Td5 in it, and the difference between it and the 300TDI is noticeable.
For me, it is simple. I would keep the V8 before installing a TD5, even though I love the TD5 as a motor, but I cannot justify the advantage over the V8.
The advantage of the 300TDI to me has less to do with fuel efficiency, and more to do with service life, simplicity and lack of electronics. I have considered the 2.8 because of it being a brand-new motor and the VVT.
I will get more serious about it after returning from Newfoundland and Labrador.
For me, it is simple. I would keep the V8 before installing a TD5, even though I love the TD5 as a motor, but I cannot justify the advantage over the V8.
The advantage of the 300TDI to me has less to do with fuel efficiency, and more to do with service life, simplicity and lack of electronics. I have considered the 2.8 because of it being a brand-new motor and the VVT.
I will get more serious about it after returning from Newfoundland and Labrador.