Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed

[Mike_rupp]

Scott, did you replace the axle shafts front and or rear? I've been going the CB route and just run the OEM front CV joints / shafts and carry spares, but I'll get new fronts one of these days.

 

[muskyman]

Scott

is that right stuff sealent on the diff 3rds?

 

[Viggen]

It is just the stock alternator (I carry a spare). The only real draw while driving is the fridge. The HIDs are low draw. The stock alternator should be fine, and has already performed well with the fridge, etc. (I just ran the fridge to the factory cig lighter.

I think it will be ok, but can run a test on all the loads to be sure. That would probably be worth doing

Stock output (whats the amp?) and single battery? What are the two 12v outlets in the rear for and what are you hooking up to the fusebox? Im thinking about running a cable from the battery to the rear where I will have a fusebox to run a fridge, compressor and the two rear spot lamps. At least, thats what I am thinking.

 

[Scott Brady]

Scott, did you replace the axle shafts front and or rear? I've been going the CB route and just run the OEM front CV joints / shafts and carry spares, but I'll get new fronts one of these days.

Mike,

Stock for now. The more I researched the shaft upgrades, the more compromises I find. I will be looking at all the options again once back from Asia

Fortunately, Rover made these shafts easy to swap out. I also had an interesting discussion with one of the Camel Trophy organizers some time ago, and they experimented with several shaft types and ultimately decided to stick with stock, as they were easy to swap and served as a fuseable link (saving the more expensive and more difficult to change differentials, etc.) Just another perspective I found interesting.

 

[Scott Brady]

Scott

is that right stuff sealent on the diff 3rds?

Yes. It is what the Rover tech spec'ed out. No leaks so far.

 

[Scott Brady]

Stock output (whats the amp?) and single battery? What are the two 12v outlets in the rear for and what are you hooking up to the fusebox? Im thinking about running a cable from the battery to the rear where I will have a fusebox to run a fridge, compressor and the two rear spot lamps. At least, thats what I am thinking.

With the loads I have, the stock alternator and the AGM battery are fine. The Discover battery has over 80ah and floats at 13v. It does a good job with the efficient National Luna fridge. I also have a LVD to protect starting voltage.

Stock alternator output is 100amps. More than adequate IMO.

 

[Antichrist]

Fortunately, Rover made these shafts easy to swap out. I also had an interesting discussion with one of the Camel Trophy organizers some time ago, and they experimented with several shaft types and ultimately decided to stick with stock, as they were easy to swap and served as a fuseable link (saving the more expensive and more difficult to change differentials, etc.) Just another perspective I found interesting.

IIRC, the Camel Trophy trucks didn't have locking diffs, which can make a difference in what half shaft you choose. Also they had the stock gearing, which isn't as strong as the 3.9:1 you went with.

Interestingly, it was the diffs that kept grenading in the Range Rovers, not the half shafts, during the Darien Gap leg of the Trans-American drive. Sme diffs as the stock Disco. Of course the Range Rovers were grossly over-loaded.

 

[Mike_rupp]

Mike,

Stock for now. The more I researched the shaft upgrades, the more compromises I find. I will be looking at all the options again once back from Asia

Fortunately, Rover made these shafts easy to swap out. I also had an interesting discussion with one of the Camel Trophy organizers some time ago, and they experimented with several shaft types and ultimately decided to stick with stock, as they were easy to swap and served as a fuseable link (saving the more expensive and more difficult to change differentials, etc.) Just another perspective I found interesting.

Well, the stock diffs are weak as can be. Now that you put the ARBs, in the rear axle shafts will be the next weakest link, like you mentioned. The problem is that they are really, really weak compared to the rest of the drivetrain and you will be changing a lot of axle shafts if you lock the ARB. My brother snapped a rear shaft literally 2 miles after installing his Detroit. One little dirt ledge where the bulk of weight of the vehicle was on one side of the rear and pop.

With my 235s / rear DT w/ GBR shafts / front TT & stock shafts/cvs, I've been fine for years, even with some less than perfect driving on slickrock. I know that I'm on borrowed time, but I keep spares, just in case.

I'm not sure if Thom dislikes Right Stuff for sealing the thirds, but that's what I just used when swapping thirds from my silver Disco to my XD. We'll see how well it holds.

 

[chris snell]

Stock output (whats the amp?) and single battery? What are the two 12v outlets in the rear for and what are you hooking up to the fusebox? Im thinking about running a cable from the battery to the rear where I will have a fusebox to run a fridge, compressor and the two rear spot lamps. At least, thats what I am thinking.

Anderson PowerPoles are the ticket for a quick disconnect for the fridge and similar accessories. I'm surprised that more people don't run them. More secure and easier to conceal than a cigarette outlet.

 

[JSQ]

Scott, you want HD shafts in the rear. Any of them will do. Otherwise you will be changing them every other time you lock the ARB.
In the front you can stick to your fuse principle and stay stock so that you break halfshafts instead of CVs.

 

[Scott Brady]

I like the idea of stronger shafts in the rear, especially with weight transfer on climbs, etc.

Ashcroft seems to be in vogue at the moment. Recommendations?

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

I've had a pair of Great Basin shafts in the rear axle of the Disco - with a Detroit - for years.

There's no visible damage to them at all.

Having said that, I had RoverTracks source the shafts in the rear of the 109, and they're just like new...of course, it's still "in progress"

 

[Mike_rupp]

I've had GBRs forever. My only minor gripe is that the axle flange sticks out far enough that the center caps on the alloy rims wont fit anymore.

That being said, I think any of the rear axles out there would work fine.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

I've had GBRs forever. My only minor gripe is that the axle flange sticks out far enough that the center caps on the alloy rims wont fit anymore.

Really? My "castor" wheels on the '94 fit over them?

Maybe the later wheels are just different enough??

...blast, now I'm going to have to test fit one of the "freestyle's" :sombrero:

 

[muskyman]

Yes. It is what the Rover tech spec'ed out. No leaks so far.

the down side is getting the 3rd back out on the trail if a failure happens.

I had to service a failed rear diff that had been sealed in place with right stuff.

with all the nuts removed on the diff I lifted the rear of the truck off the ground by the pinion before the sealent let go.:Wow1:

I use ultra blue for this seal as its great for sealing through contamination and it takes very little force to break it loose