OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

STravis

Member
With your flatbed, how long of a bed did you do? How much of that length does the forward garage take up? We've been thinking about going back to a full-size light duty and doing something similar flatbed-wise + OVRLND. Probably with a 6' flatbed on a short bed chasis. Originally I was thinking toolboxes on the side with an OVRLND on top, but seeing yours has me rethinking that since we could do simpler storage through the OVRLND side hatches.
The new bed is 7' long. The camper ended up being 65"
It's sitting on a truck that was a 5.5' bed originally.


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KellyM

Adventurer
Sweet build! Did you do any different control arms with the 2" lift? If so how do you like what you went with? With the Methods, so you remember the offset? Any rub or trimming needed? I know Ford opened up the wheel wells more in '20+ but generally F150s usually had a nice amount of space already.
I stayed with the stock control arms. That was one of my reasons for no more than 2" lift up front. No issues in the 3 years with this setup, but we don't push it past its limits. I have a a modified JKU Rubicon if I need more capability.

The Methods have 25/5.78 offset/backspacing. I only had to trim a small amount on one corner of my aftermarket mudflaps on the driver side. It rubbed a little at full lock in reverse. 2 minutes with the Dremel solved the rubbing. I could have taken the mudflaps off, but the road grim in the winter here in Idaho is pretty bad.

Are you moving on from your Gladiator?
 

KellyM

Adventurer
I'm about to do the same, except Espar vs Webasto only because I happen to live close to a very knowledgable Espar dealer/installer. Don't want to carry propane tank, rules out the truma.

I keep going back and forth on 2kw vs 4kw. I'm concerned that the 4kw version may be too much with mild temps and trying to sit inside where we would be close to the heater output duct.....but not too uncommon that I see single digits fall/winter and I'd hate to spend the considerable investment and realize the 2kw is insufficient. I'm currently piping heat from a portable 2kw in from the outside, never bothered to run it at anything but max.

I don't plan to run the heater all night and try to keep an even temp, more come back from wet/cold adventures and warm up, dry off, hang out before bed. Quick blast in the AM, then away fm camper for the day.

Space is obviously at premium, so favor the 2kw in that regard.

I see the the max output of the truma is higher than the 2kw, less than the 4kw gas/diesel heaters. I know the diesel heater like to be run full blast, not sure if the same carries true for the gas.

What are the coldest temps you have seen with the 2kw Webasto, happy with the choice?
Did you ever install the Espar?
 

montechie

Active member
I stayed with the stock control arms. That was one of my reasons for no more than 2" lift up front. No issues in the 3 years with this setup, but we don't push it past its limits. I have a a modified JKU Rubicon if I need more capability.

The Methods have 25/5.78 offset/backspacing. I only had to trim a small amount on one corner of my aftermarket mudflaps on the driver side. It rubbed a little at full lock in reverse. 2 minutes with the Dremel solved the rubbing. I could have taken the mudflaps off, but the road grim in the winter here in Idaho is pretty bad.

Are you moving on from your Gladiator?
Thanks, always good to hear real world experience.

We haven't decided, we've been thinking of a larger camping setup though. We actually just got a utility trailer (AT Chaser), that would solve our specific trip space/payload needs, buuuut our '22 Gladiator just developed the Pentastar lifter tick. We love the JTR, but we'll see how it goes with the warranty work... Hardest part is finding a dealer around Bozeman to do warranty work in the next 3 months.

I've been eyeing F150s after talking to the indie mechanics we work with about what problems and vehicles they see the most in our area. Apparently Montana eats lifters across the board, especially in the Hemi and Pentastar, one mechanic just keeps extra in stock. Our other vehicle is also a Wrangler (LJR) so wouldn't be giving up trail ability much to go back to a full-size.
 

flydream

New member
Hey there flydream. Nice build out. I have a 2018 F150 6.5 bed, Supercrew with the Eco Boost engine. I went with Bilstein B8-5100 @ 2" increase for the front because the 6112s had a lower spring rate than what was already on my truck. I did B8-5160s in the rear. I the like the set up. I had Boise Spring Works make a new custom leaf pack for me rated at 2000lbs. No sag, no air bags and the truck drives great with it. The leaf pack was around $500 (they reused a couple of the stock springs in the new pack, but it is not an add a leaf).

I'm running 315/7017 KO2s (34.4")on Method 705 bead grip wheels. I have the stock 3.55 gearing with a rear locker. The eco boost and 10 speed transmission handles the weight and increased tire size just fine. I'm sure 4.10 or 4.30 gearing would result in better mpg, but I don't want to spend the money. I'm getting mid to low 17s mpg on the truck calculator with mostly around town, forest roads and 65 mph two lane highways. We also have done some fairly technical trails, well as technical as a 160" wheel base truck with a 2" lift can do. I really like the ~35 inch tires and the Bilsteins. By the way, I get no rubbing with this setup. Here is a photo from a recent trip.View attachment 848502
Hey that's my truck!! Well, at least what I want my truck to look like. Yeah- I'm going to copy you and go the same direction, thanks, looks great. I recently learned that I can't drop down to 17" wheels with the max tow package as the wheels wont fit with the larger rotors in the back, so I'll probably stick with 285/70/18 ~34" which I think will be good enough for the the terrain I frequent. I didn't know about the spring rate between the 5100 and 6112, interesting.
 

Alex J

New member
Rudimentary interior build with a platform across bulkhead and refrigerator drawer and battery box. 200w flex solar panel, Victron Solar Controller, LED lights, 12v plugs.
 

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tgoff

New member
Milwaukee Packout mounted. JDS customs aluminum wall plates worked great and are excellent quality. A couple more to mount. Compact fits perfectly between the cab window and exterior walls. Slowly coming together.
 

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bonuscup

New member
I've compiled a OVRLND Campers "secret menu" list of things that can be customized. Let me know what I should add to the list. Be sure to check out the rest of the webpage and please subscribe if you want to follow along with my build. Thanks!


What I did:

  • Taller barn door opening height for my asymmetrical barn doors. Makes getting in and out, loading tall items easier.
  • Bed support railing Unistrut extended all the way to the rear of the camper. Great for hanging accessories from the wall such as trash bins, storage baskets, hooks, fire extinguishers.
  • 11″ cabover height (that’s three extra inches) for more bedding when collapsed. Another benefit is the interior has more headroom both when collapsed and popped up.
  • Add more horizontal or vertical studs where you think you’ll need them for attaching heavy items.
  • Slide-latch lock for flip up hatch: let’s you lock the side hatch from the inside and/or get double security.
  • Requested the bed slide platform be shortened from 80″ to 74″. This gave us 6 extra inches of standing room when the bed is extended. Only works if you’re shorter than 74″.
  • Added 8020 horizontal mounting bars to barn door exterior.
What I skipped:

  • Extra space between vehicle roof and cabover of camper (makes room for a roof rack).
  • Ports and openings cut into sidewalls for diesel heater ducts, water inlets, propane hoses, electrical plugs, etc.
  • Exterior lighting, cameras (you provide), and other items you might want mounted on the outside.
  • Longer barn door catches to allow for bigger items to be mounted to barn doors. Limits barn doors from hitting the side of camper when opened.
  • Have solar gland cables wired down to either side of the camper. If you don’t specify, they route it down the rear of the driver side.
Cheers!

One I’ll add that was only $30 to include but a total game changer is having them add eyelets on the front and rear side for our 270 awning straps to hook to.
 

bonuscup

New member
Has anyone built out a lower bunk bed sleeping solution along the bulkhead? I have two small kids and considering all options on how to set up the lower sleeping arrangement. Something like this seems like an interesting option.
 

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