Project "Autonomous" F-350
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I ground down all the rivet heads today except for the leaf spring mounts. My hands are still tingling. I fabricated the second upper cross member and installed it. When I was a design engineer, I used to always make things to nice round dimensions. Sticking to that practice has allowed many parts that were designed for one application to be used for another. By sheer luck, I was able to use existing holes from the rear factory cross member for mine. It saved me a bunch of time drilling through the frame and the less holes the better. I was a little nervous removing the factory cross members, I expected it to move a little but was hoping it didn't spring. I punched out all the rivets with an air hammer and removed both the factory cross members.
There is now a ton of space for my 60 gallon tank. Tomorrow I fabricate the lower cross members/ fuel tank mounts.
There is now a ton of space for my 60 gallon tank. Tomorrow I fabricate the lower cross members/ fuel tank mounts.
underdrive
jackwagon
Wow I haven't been on here for a while and you're moving along at full clip! Good progress, really just removal of a single one for them crossmembers would count as good progress in my book. Tho given how open your access to the frame is, I'd have been very tempted to go for the blue wrench instead of the grinder. Also I've had better luck with just a regular punch and a 4-lbs engineer's hammer while driving them rivets out, few good swings and they're out, it's less fatiguing to me than the air hammer and it's a good workout to boot... Well, and I just like hammers a bit too much 
Btw backing plates like the ones you made for your crossmembers (but with stainless nuts) is how we bolt our spares to the bed rails in one of our trucks. The better half was actually supposed to tack them in way back when, so they don't fall off every time the wheels get pulled, but knowing her I somewhat doubt that actually did happen - guess I'll find out next time I need a spare wheel
How worried are you about frame twist? The factory crossmembers are stamped not only because it's cheap, but also because it's not torsionally resistant, meaning when the frame twists the crossmembers will elastically twist with it. Tubing on the other hand is very stiff torsionally, so if the frame goes to do its twisty-twisty the crossmembers will not like that very much. Unless of course the U-haul box makes the frame so stiff there's like zero twist going on to begin with?
Btw backing plates like the ones you made for your crossmembers (but with stainless nuts) is how we bolt our spares to the bed rails in one of our trucks. The better half was actually supposed to tack them in way back when, so they don't fall off every time the wheels get pulled, but knowing her I somewhat doubt that actually did happen - guess I'll find out next time I need a spare wheel
How worried are you about frame twist? The factory crossmembers are stamped not only because it's cheap, but also because it's not torsionally resistant, meaning when the frame twists the crossmembers will elastically twist with it. Tubing on the other hand is very stiff torsionally, so if the frame goes to do its twisty-twisty the crossmembers will not like that very much. Unless of course the U-haul box makes the frame so stiff there's like zero twist going on to begin with?
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Thanks, happy to give back for all I've learned here.
Not very worried. I jacked up the rear corner to get better access to the shock mount rivets for grinding. With only the top two crossmembers on, there was very little frame twist. The cab and chassis frame has a taller profile and additional bracing on the top and bottom of the frame rails under the cab. Also, my progressive leaf springs move easier than the stiff factory springs. With all the stuff I am adding to the frame, it will be plenty stiff.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I bought this today http://www.ebay.com/itm/371440635255 Going to put all my fuel delivery components in here to keep them high and dry; AEM pumps and filters, ball valves, electric breaker, filler pump, etc. For that price it might be paper mache but it's not going to be under load so I think it will be fine.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Hope I'm not breaking any rules here but I posted that a friend of mine was selling her Kodiac. It got some interest but it was quickly sold. Sign of the times but the buyer backed out when they found a 2wd cheaper on ebay. Anyways, the truck is for sale again and is super nice and 4 wheel drive. Here is a link to the ad. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5534503612.html If I had the dough, I would be all over this, it's ready to go.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
The bed is actually 11' 8" It dovetails for the last 12" or so on the back.
You and me both. Lately, I am just a clearing house for truck parts and materials.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Looking good papawheely! I've been away from the site for ages (new family member) and just had to read 15 or so pages. Like the move to the single cab. Makes sense. Keep up the great work
Congratulations! and thanks.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Trudging along, I spent several days fabricating temporary parts to lift the rear of the truck so I could move the tank back where it belongs. Also had trouble getting the leaf spring bolts out. I think the uhaul techs used red loctite on everything; bass-tards.
Getting the tank moved shows the amount of space I will have to sink the house batteries down into the frame rails.
Framing out the utility space behind the cab. I will tie it into the cab. It mounts on rubber bushings. It will also be the means that I create a pass through to the box.
Good thing I saved my camper jacks, they are coming in handy. The box is tying up the lift.
Making lower crossmembers/tank supports. I need to support the underside of the tank; not sure what to use. Wood will rot eventually. Aluminum is expensive.
In case I get stumped, I'm fortunate to have a lab at my disposal.
Getting the tank moved shows the amount of space I will have to sink the house batteries down into the frame rails.
Framing out the utility space behind the cab. I will tie it into the cab. It mounts on rubber bushings. It will also be the means that I create a pass through to the box.
Good thing I saved my camper jacks, they are coming in handy. The box is tying up the lift.
Making lower crossmembers/tank supports. I need to support the underside of the tank; not sure what to use. Wood will rot eventually. Aluminum is expensive.
In case I get stumped, I'm fortunate to have a lab at my disposal.
