Project "Autonomous" F-350
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Really frustrated right now. I wanted to pre-filter my fuel with a fuel water separator before my fuel pump to keep moisture out of the pump. AEM told me for maximum pump life I should not exceed 30 microns filtration level if I was going to use a vacuum filtering configuration. Apparently, 99.999 percent of all filters are 10 microns. After an exhaustive search, I contacted John Redmon at Diesel Filters Direct He was very gracious in providing his time trying to help me with what I needed; even sending some product for testing. The products he sells are what the dieselfiltersdirect.com name implies; they are for Diesel. He was not sure how the plastic drain bowl would do when subjected to gasoline. The filter bowl did not like E85. You know, that inefficient, worthless crap that nobody wants that kills parts but gives politicians an avenue to buy votes by subsidizing farmers with taxpayer money. Anyways, I can't guarantee that I will find non-E85 fuel when I am on the road.
There is a coast guard regulation for inboard engine filters to have a metal, not plastic, drain bowl. Easy, I'll just get a metal bowl. That has led me into a labyrinth of incompatibility. Everything John had was too large; like 14-16 inches tall. No problem, I'll go to the internet. All I wanted was a filter unit with a 30 micron filter and metal bowl. After days spent searching, I found filters with metal bowls that I had no way of knowing whether it fit the head unit I had, other plastic bowls that may or may not work, tons of 10 micron filters and complete units that I would have had to purchase, discard the filter and replace with a 30 micron. When I did find what I wanted, it was $100 more than a 10 micron unit. For whatever reason, less efficient filtering costs twice as much or more. I called Racor (Parker-Hannifin) and got similar news. Either I run a 16 inch tall unit, a plastic bowl or get an entirely new unit with a 10 micron filter and throw it away. Where to compromise? I found a good deal and purchased a complete 10 micron filter set-up. Since I am using it from the large tank as a transfer pump, it will not run continuously so I think it will be ok. I had planned to have a switching valve so I could also feed the engine directly from the large tank; that might change until I can replace the filter with a 30 micron replacement.
The reason I bored you with all this is to demonstrate how difficult it can be to accomplish simple things when building a project; especially when you are on a tight budget. It is always going to take longer, cost more and expand the scope well beyond anything you imagine when you head down that road. It may sound like one project, but the one project is actually dozens of smaller projects happening all at once.
There is a coast guard regulation for inboard engine filters to have a metal, not plastic, drain bowl. Easy, I'll just get a metal bowl. That has led me into a labyrinth of incompatibility. Everything John had was too large; like 14-16 inches tall. No problem, I'll go to the internet. All I wanted was a filter unit with a 30 micron filter and metal bowl. After days spent searching, I found filters with metal bowls that I had no way of knowing whether it fit the head unit I had, other plastic bowls that may or may not work, tons of 10 micron filters and complete units that I would have had to purchase, discard the filter and replace with a 30 micron. When I did find what I wanted, it was $100 more than a 10 micron unit. For whatever reason, less efficient filtering costs twice as much or more. I called Racor (Parker-Hannifin) and got similar news. Either I run a 16 inch tall unit, a plastic bowl or get an entirely new unit with a 10 micron filter and throw it away. Where to compromise? I found a good deal and purchased a complete 10 micron filter set-up. Since I am using it from the large tank as a transfer pump, it will not run continuously so I think it will be ok. I had planned to have a switching valve so I could also feed the engine directly from the large tank; that might change until I can replace the filter with a 30 micron replacement.
The reason I bored you with all this is to demonstrate how difficult it can be to accomplish simple things when building a project; especially when you are on a tight budget. It is always going to take longer, cost more and expand the scope well beyond anything you imagine when you head down that road. It may sound like one project, but the one project is actually dozens of smaller projects happening all at once.
rayra
Expedition Leader
How about filtering the tank on a closed 10micron loop, independent of the fuel feed. Like a circulating pump. You get the fuel filtration you want, without straining the normal fuel pump.
The other possibility is using that large 'transfer' tank as your 'IN' tank, like the first stomach in a ruminant. You fill it, filter it as part of the transfer to the 2nd/'normal' tank, which your regular fuel pump draws from. That way you separate the filtration issues. Pun intended. And then rig things so you can draw directly from your transfer tank in extremis, if your 'normal' tank is punctured.
The other possibility is using that large 'transfer' tank as your 'IN' tank, like the first stomach in a ruminant. You fill it, filter it as part of the transfer to the 2nd/'normal' tank, which your regular fuel pump draws from. That way you separate the filtration issues. Pun intended. And then rig things so you can draw directly from your transfer tank in extremis, if your 'normal' tank is punctured.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
That IS the plan. :coffeedrink:
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pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Picked up some superduty springs today. I can start mocking up the rear suspension.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I am super busy writing the post race reports for the NORRA Mexican 1000 this week but managed to drop the tank out of the Uhaul today. I promised the tank to a friend of mine who picked up a really cool 4x4 OBS Ford regular cab shortbed with an inline 6 and manual trans! The back end of the frame is looking very sparse now. Have to figure out the fuel line routing next.
May be moot at this point but how much would it be to have someone make the bowl you need in metal? Sorry for the frustrations but you make a key point when customizing anything....each thing begets something else.
You'll post a link when you're done with your writeups of the race I hope... I always enjoy reading them....and seeing your pics!
You'll post a link when you're done with your writeups of the race I hope... I always enjoy reading them....and seeing your pics!
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
May be moot at this point but how much would it be to have someone make the bowl you need in metal? Sorry for the frustrations but you make a key point when customizing anything....each thing begets something else.
You'll post a link when you're done with your writeups of the race I hope... I always enjoy reading them....and seeing your pics!
I have a friend who offered to machine the part for me but I will be doing a tech article on the fuel system so I wanted to find something off the shelf. I wish I was down there at the Mexican 1000 shooting photos. I'm stateside doing the writing.
https://www.norra.com/release_2016_04_22.php
https://www.norra.com/rc_2016_01.php
https://www.norra.com/rc_2016_02.php
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Part of building a custom vehicle is doing research. There are tons of topics that have to be researched when there is no "Book" (other than the Portal) to guide you. I have spent countless hours online to find the knowledge needed and then to find parts that will work at the best price. It's easy when you have the budget to throw at it but most don't. When you are budgeting a build, you just can't foresee all the ancillary parts needed to attach things and make them work. You have to get good at finding parts that might be for something other than your end use. In searching for a way to mount my AEM fuel filters, I came across these clamps that are made for mounting driving lights to round tube. Instead, I am using them to mount a round tube to the truck.
Almost every day, more parts show up. I got my Energy Suspension bump stops that I will be using to cushion the box against the frame.
The crossmembers I fabricated are 1" tall. These bumpstops are 1" tall. The 2" tall combination fits exactly in the 2" tall square tubing that is used between the box and the frame. The top of the crossmember makes a perfect strike pad; all by design.
Almost every day, more parts show up. I got my Energy Suspension bump stops that I will be using to cushion the box against the frame.
The crossmembers I fabricated are 1" tall. These bumpstops are 1" tall. The 2" tall combination fits exactly in the 2" tall square tubing that is used between the box and the frame. The top of the crossmember makes a perfect strike pad; all by design.
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pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
More head scratching and trial fitting today. Went to see where the tires will sit on the dually rear end. Went to put the wheel on and it would not go on. Is the bore size too small?, wheel pattern different?, do I have to chase the stud holes? Nope, just remove the roll pin that was hiding on the bottom of the drum, duh!
Very happy with the track width in the rear. The tires will fit nicely with the outside of the box.
With all the clearance, I can also move the leaf springs further out towards the hubs. Win, Win!
I can move them 4" out on both sides with plenty of clearance. It does make the spring hangers more complex but the rewards are worth it. :wings:
Very happy with the track width in the rear. The tires will fit nicely with the outside of the box.
With all the clearance, I can also move the leaf springs further out towards the hubs. Win, Win!
I can move them 4" out on both sides with plenty of clearance. It does make the spring hangers more complex but the rewards are worth it. :wings:
thethePete
Explorer
^ Make sure you leave enough room to get the backing plate off and the wheel cylinder changed with the spring on.... It'd be a real PITA to have to drop the axle just to bleed the brakes...
You're not considering a dually pickup rear axle? The C&C(I assume) axle you have should be the same width(hub to hub) as the one in your SRW pickup, a dually pickup axle is IIRC 6" wider at the hub and 3" wider at the spring pads. I don't know the width of the U-Haul box but I'd assume this would be a much better track width to match the box with a single tire.
underdrive
jackwagon
Had to do brakes on a old motorhome once, don't remember details on the chassis was but I remember why I remember that particular job - the springs were about as close to the backing plates as you're setting yours up to be, replacing the wheel cylinders was interesting...
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Now I remember, I blocked it out of my conscious mind due to the trauma. It's impossible to get to the bleeders on these axles.
I don't have the WMS to WMS of the uhaul but it is wider than the F350 by about 3 inches per side.
Simple, exploding bolts.