Project BigB... a 1977 Dodge Van 6x4!
- Thread starter Keyblazer
- Start date
wrcsixeight
Adventurer
Sorry to hear about the Ammonia fridge. Since you say you will be adding solar, replacing that absorption fridge with a compressor fridge might allow you to remove those vents, and open up your interior design options.
That things sounds pretty good. I'm not that familiar with a 360 with headers but it sounds like they might have put a different Cam in there when they rebuilt it. Does your documentation list the cam replacement part number?
That things sounds pretty good. I'm not that familiar with a 360 with headers but it sounds like they might have put a different Cam in there when they rebuilt it. Does your documentation list the cam replacement part number?
wrcsixeight
Adventurer
I have a 1.7 cubic foot Norcold. It is a little small. They make 2.7's 3.5's 4's ect.
I would recommend any compressor fridge with a danfoss compressor.
Browse this site: http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|406&id=10789
If you do not need a front loading fridge, the chest types like Engel and ARB are inherently more efficient and portable.
Some front loading compressor fridges still need air flow to be built into the cabinet. Decide on and buy a fridge before designing and building a cabinet for it.
I would recommend any compressor fridge with a danfoss compressor.
Browse this site: http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|406&id=10789
If you do not need a front loading fridge, the chest types like Engel and ARB are inherently more efficient and portable.
Some front loading compressor fridges still need air flow to be built into the cabinet. Decide on and buy a fridge before designing and building a cabinet for it.
Keyblazer
Adventurer
Looks good.
I am looking around at the cost of a new cooling unit for it, and found one for about $300, so might consider that too.
Spent a couple of hours with a tape measure and notebook getting some better and accurate measurements...
Kinda frustrated with the genset installation..
It intrudes into the rear floor by 10". I looked at a straight drop of 10" down, and it would SO compromise my already crap departure angle.
There is about 1" of airgap between the top of the genset and the floor.
Below, there is about 1.5" between the bottom of the genset and the mesh that is mounted below.
Maybe I can eat into these a little, drop the getset maybe 2", then have a raised platform between the seats that will not hurt interior space or departure angle so much..
I am looking around at the cost of a new cooling unit for it, and found one for about $300, so might consider that too.
Spent a couple of hours with a tape measure and notebook getting some better and accurate measurements...
Kinda frustrated with the genset installation..
It intrudes into the rear floor by 10". I looked at a straight drop of 10" down, and it would SO compromise my already crap departure angle.
There is about 1" of airgap between the top of the genset and the floor.
Below, there is about 1.5" between the bottom of the genset and the mesh that is mounted below.
Maybe I can eat into these a little, drop the getset maybe 2", then have a raised platform between the seats that will not hurt interior space or departure angle so much..
Ironduff
Observer
Key, that's one seriously unique van! Neat!!!!
What brand and size generator? I'm asking because I may have a few ideas.... Roadtrek (Canadian maker of class B van RV's) has used two ways of mounting the Onan 2800 on their Dodge van conversions. In the early '90's, they made some with the genset sitting on the floor in a driver's side compartment. I think the kitchen counter or sink was above it. Later, thru the end of the Dodge Ram van and into their current Chevy production, they've hung them under the rear floor. I've had two like this.
If you happen to see an early-to-mid 90's Roadtrek '190 Independent' Dodge, I'm pretty sure that had the floor-level genset compartment. They also used it in the first series 210, based on the ultra-long version of the Chevy mid-90's G30 van. Pleasureway ('nother B maker) also uses the floor-level mount in their Ford Excels. I think it's under a closet in those.
If yours is an Onan 2800 or something not too much larger, it might be worth sacrificing a little interior space to mount it above the floor like that. Aside from better ground clearance, it'd also be more protected from an accidental dunking, either fording or boat launching.
Good luck with the van. It's plumb awesome!
Jim H.
What brand and size generator? I'm asking because I may have a few ideas.... Roadtrek (Canadian maker of class B van RV's) has used two ways of mounting the Onan 2800 on their Dodge van conversions. In the early '90's, they made some with the genset sitting on the floor in a driver's side compartment. I think the kitchen counter or sink was above it. Later, thru the end of the Dodge Ram van and into their current Chevy production, they've hung them under the rear floor. I've had two like this.
If you happen to see an early-to-mid 90's Roadtrek '190 Independent' Dodge, I'm pretty sure that had the floor-level genset compartment. They also used it in the first series 210, based on the ultra-long version of the Chevy mid-90's G30 van. Pleasureway ('nother B maker) also uses the floor-level mount in their Ford Excels. I think it's under a closet in those.
If yours is an Onan 2800 or something not too much larger, it might be worth sacrificing a little interior space to mount it above the floor like that. Aside from better ground clearance, it'd also be more protected from an accidental dunking, either fording or boat launching.
Good luck with the van. It's plumb awesome!
Jim H.
Keyblazer
Adventurer
Thanks Iron!
The Genset is a Generac 5000w, and runs good, starts pretty much first spin everytime.
Its mounted between the rear gas tank and the tow hitch in the rear..
I think Picture are important... here is a view of the current rear interior setup, with the rear doors open. The white door hinges up for access, and there is about 1" of space between the generator top and the blue carpeted lid.
Lid open shot...
Here is a view from the rear, underneath. The mesh you see is about
1.5 to 2" below the bottom of the generator pulleys and frame... I think I can drop it a bit, but I would like to add a "skid plate/rail to protect it and the rear gas tank... Maybe tie it into the tow hitch too.
The muffler is toast, and feels loose from the header downpipe. I will have to tuck it away up to protect it, and get more clearance. You can see the pretty big empty space above where it is now, and I think will work with a bit of pipework. Maybe I can get it to come thru the hole in the tow hitch so it is protected and neater.
The Genset is a Generac 5000w, and runs good, starts pretty much first spin everytime.
Its mounted between the rear gas tank and the tow hitch in the rear..
I think Picture are important... here is a view of the current rear interior setup, with the rear doors open. The white door hinges up for access, and there is about 1" of space between the generator top and the blue carpeted lid.
Lid open shot...
Here is a view from the rear, underneath. The mesh you see is about
1.5 to 2" below the bottom of the generator pulleys and frame... I think I can drop it a bit, but I would like to add a "skid plate/rail to protect it and the rear gas tank... Maybe tie it into the tow hitch too.
The muffler is toast, and feels loose from the header downpipe. I will have to tuck it away up to protect it, and get more clearance. You can see the pretty big empty space above where it is now, and I think will work with a bit of pipework. Maybe I can get it to come thru the hole in the tow hitch so it is protected and neater.
wrcsixeight
Adventurer
If your A/C did not work, I would say to remove the Generac, and get a little portable Honda but that is not the case.
While I think you will be able to lower the generator and the interior cabinet over it slightly, I believe you are stuck having it block the rear access doors partially.
Since I imagine it is pretty loud inside with that thing running, I think I would incorporate some design in the back for clothes and other sound/ heat dampening storage around that box.
I know it would be nice to have 2 entrances and exits, but I sacrificed my rear exit, and exclusively use the side, which works nicer from a shade point of view and as a wind block.
You really need to do a short camping excursion in it so you realize what's important and what is not, ergonomic wise.
While I think you will be able to lower the generator and the interior cabinet over it slightly, I believe you are stuck having it block the rear access doors partially.
Since I imagine it is pretty loud inside with that thing running, I think I would incorporate some design in the back for clothes and other sound/ heat dampening storage around that box.
I know it would be nice to have 2 entrances and exits, but I sacrificed my rear exit, and exclusively use the side, which works nicer from a shade point of view and as a wind block.
You really need to do a short camping excursion in it so you realize what's important and what is not, ergonomic wise.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
It think this is key before making any major decisions. Beat on it for while to see what you like and dislike.
Even living out of it in your lane way for a few days or week would give better insight before sealing off rear doors and such.
Similar threads
