Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[Metcalf]

The front axle will likely never go that high. The springs would be WAY into negative arch at that point and the axle would be hitting the frame. My rough guess is that the axle will have a bumpstop about 1-1.5" lower than this axle location. There is more room than it look like around the shaft. I was trying to hold the shaft and take a picture at the same time I would guess there is about 3/8" clearance at the worst spot with the axle fully compressed to the frame. I do like that that pinion u-joint has a little extra room to move around too. There should be no torque wrap U-joint contact problems.

The belly pan will not be THAT close to the bellhousing. It will slope from the transmission/transfer case crossmember to the the oil pan crossmember. There should be about 1" under the bellhousing. I am trying to leave some room for things to move around a bit.....but it is tight....that is for sure!

I'm fairly sure I can get the engine all under the hood. The current air cleaner is on about a 1/2" RAISED base and runs a 2" thick filter. I also have that adapter under the carb. I have some other somewhat more creative induction ideas that I want to try :sombrero: I don't want to cut the hood out.

 

[njtacoma]

Air Cleaner options

I owned a 1969 Ford Bronco and the air filter housing was an offset design where the filter itself was over the valve cover via an air filter, sorry I don't have a picture but it might work to buy you some space. Broncos have pretty low hoods that seems to be why most (all?) of the FI ones have big hood bulges to clear the plenums.

I also vaguely recollect one of the early FI kits (maybe projection) having a snorkel type air filter adapter where the air filter was somewhere else in the engine compartment.

I know your not going FI at this time, but it might get you the clearance you need if it could be adapted. With your fab skills you could probably make one that mimics either design.

I am enjoying the buildup.

 

[jeepdreamer]

I like the t-case mounted parking brake idea personally. The original drums were pretty leak prone (like everything else under there!) so a disc may fix that some? I've been looking into a similar set up for my dana 300 as my factory Pbrake is junk. I hear a lot of neg. feedback from folks about the tcase mounted p brake but I'm ok with it. If you want I will try and link the "kits" I have found so far?

 

[reece146]

I'm fairly sure I can get the engine all under the hood. The current air cleaner is on about a 1/2" RAISED base and runs a 2" thick filter. I also have that adapter under the carb. I have some other somewhat more creative induction ideas that I want to try :sombrero: I don't want to cut the hood out.

Do these engines (stock intake manifold) have a known issue with the fuel falling out of the air flow and collecting on the intake manifold floor? This is usually the reason for a spacer... help straighten out the air flow and keep the fuel atomized.

Just wondering if the PO added that spacer "just because" or if they were solving a problem.

I'm certain there must be a way to make the carb and air cleaner fit.

 

[reece146]

I like the t-case mounted parking brake idea personally. The original drums were pretty leak prone (like everything else under there!) so a disc may fix that some? I've been looking into a similar set up for my dana 300 as my factory Pbrake is junk. I hear a lot of neg. feedback from folks about the tcase mounted p brake but I'm ok with it. If you want I will try and link the "kits" I have found so far?

I like the idea as well. The trucks I've had with that setup in the past worked fine with their drum brake setup (OEM setup). I never had any problem with the Suzukis with this setup.

There are caveats though... with the e-brake on if you jack one of the rear tires up in the back the e-brake has effectively been defeated and the vehicle can roll. That is with a traditional open or limited slip differential. A spool won't do that.

Suzuki got around that by making a manual locking mechanism for the rear differential (only strong enough for parking - not off-road usage). I don't think anyone else did that.

Do the newer Land Rovers with the LT230 transfer case use a transfer case mounted e-brake?

SpiderTrax makes an e-brake kit that I copied for my rear axle setup.

http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2133/.f?sc=2&category=8

I can post a few pictures of my axle setup if there is interest. I am only using the caliper and made the mounts and stuff. The Wilwood caliper can be ordered from Jegs, Summit, etc.

It's a PITA to get adjusted properly. When it isn't adjusted right it chatters. I'm not certain if that is an issue with my setup or inherent to the design.

IIRC Tom Woods makes a transfer case e-brake setup for NV style transfer cases. Possibly Dana 300 as well.

Edit, it's actually a Parts Mike setup: http://www.4xshaft.com/Brake_Rotor_Kit.html

I like that brake caliper better than the Wilwood...

 

[Metcalf]

I owned a 1969 Ford Bronco and the air filter housing was an offset design where the filter itself was over the valve cover via an air filter, sorry I don't have a picture but it might work to buy you some space. Broncos have pretty low hoods that seems to be why most (all?) of the FI ones have big hood bulges to clear the plenums.

I also vaguely recollect one of the early FI kits (maybe projection) having a snorkel type air filter adapter where the air filter was somewhere else in the engine compartment.

I know your not going FI at this time, but it might get you the clearance you need if it could be adapted. With your fab skills you could probably make one that mimics either design.

I am enjoying the buildup.

Thanks. I will look into the bronco air cleaner, or making something like it.

 

[Metcalf]

Do these engines (stock intake manifold) have a known issue with the fuel falling out of the air flow and collecting on the intake manifold floor? This is usually the reason for a spacer... help straighten out the air flow and keep the fuel atomized.

Just wondering if the PO added that spacer "just because" or if they were solving a problem.

I'm certain there must be a way to make the carb and air cleaner fit.

Its an adapter. It goes from the rochester carb bolt pattern to the holley 2bbl bolt pattern.

 

[reece146]

Gotcha. Lots of options to eliminate then. Drill and tap the manifold directly? Little bit of mini die grinder work?

 

[Metcalf]

Gotcha. Lots of options to eliminate then. Drill and tap the manifold directly? Little bit of mini die grinder work?

Not really. The rochester pattern is really odd and the bast isn't big enough to grab the holley bolt pattern. I could shave and weld a new pad to the manifold maybe.

Do you have any pics of your e-brake setup?

 

[reece146]

I'll post a picture when I get back to the shop this afternoon.

 

[mutt550]

I just bought a 47 willys that's been built up by the prior owner. It's runnung 36" irocs like you talked about running. It's on 3/4 ton axles that are scout width. I like what you are doing and will be watching. I've only had my willy's 3 days now and am very excited to start playing with it. It's running a 22R Toyota for the engine.

Keep up the good work!!!

 

[Metcalf]

I just bought a 47 willys that's been built up by the prior owner. It's runnung 36" irocs like you talked about running. It's on 3/4 ton axles that are scout width. I like what you are doing and will be watching. I've only had my willy's 3 days now and am very excited to start playing with it. It's running a 22R Toyota for the engine.

Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks! Got any pics of your new ride?

 

[jeepdreamer]

Stop!...

I found there are basically 3-4 people making the parking brake kit. For the Dana 300 you can go JB convertions, Parts Mike, AllPro offroad, or maybe an Advance Adapters HD rear output with a flange style DS.I'm sure there are multiple ways to go about making your own set up maybe using this and that and making some of your own stuff as needed. The key seems to be the upgraded rear out put housing. Following that is selecting a small enough disc that will work and a caliper to function. The mounting bracket appears to be the least difficult of all the components.
I really like JBconversions products. They aren't the cheapest but IMHO they put the effort into designing and machining quality stuff. If I built my own kit I would go with their rear output most likely.
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/rear_out.php
link is to the upgrade... scroll down to fig 5 for the Pbrake pic. They don't sell the rest of the stuff but it looks similar to AllPros stuff in the pic?
PartsMike's kit uses AAs HD out kit. Its likely the least expensive route as a package. I had some difficult dealings with PM but he did try and rectify it as best he could. I'm just not sure I will deal with them again.But its worth looking into.
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=199&rn=1481&action=show_detail
AllPro deals mostly with Yota stuff IIRC but I believe their kit is semi-universal?
You may want to sit down and price stuff out on your own using different components. I believe NWF (North West Fabworks) has a flange mount setup for the Danas as well?
One final bit of input on this from me. If I don't get to where I feel happy with the cost/work of this set up then my fallback position is to install a line lok. Its likely far cheaper and less work than the disc setup, not to mention it works even if a tire in in the air (or 3 tires!?!). Only real issue I have with it is that it is somewhat unconventional. Should I ever allow someone else to drive my jeep I would have to explain how to operate it. Not a huge deal but whatever, right?

 

[Metcalf]

I've got a Dana 18 transfer case though

I'm fairly sure I can fab something up. It would be really nice if I could make it use the factory e-brake handle on the dash :sombrero: I already have a flange type yoke on he rear output. I was planning on removing it for a regular style yoke, but I think I will keep it. For a flat fender I have a pretty long rear driveline. If I change to a CV rear driveshaft I will probably have to change the the rear output.

The wilwood mechanical spot caliper looks like it should work ok. I'm a little concerned about how small of a disc I can run. The smaller the better for my packaging problems.

The e-brake probably won't make the initial buildup, we will see how crunched for time I get.

 

[jeepdreamer]

Dang...Long day of being an idiot just got worse. lol! Sorry. IIRC, there is a seal built into your 18s output that keeps (sometimes) the fluid in the case and not in the drum brake? Maybe with some machinging skills you could alter one to work..? You could also look at motorcycle and scooter disc brakes as an option for a small disc? Maybe even use the handle bar lever to actuate?