seanpistol's 01 Tundra
- Thread starter seanpistol
- Start date
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
Damn, those 37's look good! Can't wait to see it done. I wonder how much it'll rub though, even with LT. I think the bump travel is still the same as a mid-travel, so unless you limit bump or relocate your fenderwell, it's gonna rub. You should be fine on the frame though. I rub like crazy there with my 35s.
seanpistol
Explorer
I'm anticipating having to get into the upper fender well. I won't accept any rubbing, it's going to take a little effort!
seanpistol
Explorer
Possibly. The same idea crossed my mind and I think that wouldn't be too bad. It's going to come down to what it looks like when I get the A-arms and a tire mounted, and can cycle the suspension.
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seanpistol
Explorer
Brian at FROR/Diamond Axle told me today he will have an adapter out in a couple months to run the 8" front diff in our truck and the other models that share the 7.5" diff.
Certainly keep us updated on any info you hear about this! Its been in the works for what seems like years, and I couldn't be more excited about it!
seanpistol
Explorer
Will do. He said he had to prioritize getting his long travel kit into production before getting the 7.5 to 8" adapter into production. Need to keep in touch with him.
FROR's 3rd gen 4runner "Cookie Monster" build has this adapter. He has the 8" diff with ARB to further strengthen it, stock CV joints on extended axles, 37s, and he wheels the piss out of it. All-Pros "Frosty" FJ build has the 8" diff, 37s, an ARB and stock CV joints. All-Pros "Brownie" has the 8" diff, ARB, 37s and RCV axles. There seems to be a trend here...
I think this is the direction I want to go. 8" diff swap with an ARB and maybe upgraded axles.
Three extended axles for stock joints is $850! A pair of RCVs is $2000. If they save me time from having to change them that could be worth the difference.
Manual hubs could be a smart option.
FROR's 3rd gen 4runner "Cookie Monster" build has this adapter. He has the 8" diff with ARB to further strengthen it, stock CV joints on extended axles, 37s, and he wheels the piss out of it. All-Pros "Frosty" FJ build has the 8" diff, 37s, an ARB and stock CV joints. All-Pros "Brownie" has the 8" diff, ARB, 37s and RCV axles. There seems to be a trend here...
I think this is the direction I want to go. 8" diff swap with an ARB and maybe upgraded axles.
Three extended axles for stock joints is $850! A pair of RCVs is $2000. If they save me time from having to change them that could be worth the difference.
Manual hubs could be a smart option.
seanpistol
Explorer
Blender
Adventurer
Do the 8" diffs run different splined CVs?
The long travel CVs are a hassle. If you're not running OEM CVs now you'll need to track down a source or pony up 3x$400 for new OEM inner/outer. Local CV shop had rebuilt OEM for $140 each assembled on the camburg extended axles. Personally, I carry one complete spare, but if they start blowing up RCV is in my future. It's slippery slope though.. i'll stick to small tires.
seanpistol
Explorer
I'm trying to figure out that right now. I believe the splines are the same. I am also pretty sure the mounting of the 8" diff is the same as the 7.5" diff but it is wider. So, I am pretty sure that the adapter is to run the 7.5" ADD tube and your normal CVs. I will confirm tomorrow.
I have three sets of OEM CVs currently. The Tundra joints are larger and stronger than the Tacoma and 4runner joints. I like the RCVs but more so like the idea of keeping the CVs as the weakest link. I don't want to blow my diff on the trail and have to pull it, gut it, and reinstall it to drive home, and the RCVs are as beefy as they come. I've pulled and reinstalled my front diff three times. Enough to know the tricks and enough to know that it still sucks ***! The 8" diff and 37s is equivalent to the 7.5" diff and 35s- The upper limit, but somewhat reliable.
I have three sets of OEM CVs currently. The Tundra joints are larger and stronger than the Tacoma and 4runner joints. I like the RCVs but more so like the idea of keeping the CVs as the weakest link. I don't want to blow my diff on the trail and have to pull it, gut it, and reinstall it to drive home, and the RCVs are as beefy as they come. I've pulled and reinstalled my front diff three times. Enough to know the tricks and enough to know that it still sucks ***! The 8" diff and 37s is equivalent to the 7.5" diff and 35s- The upper limit, but somewhat reliable.
seanpistol
Explorer
Well since I have to throw gears in the 8" diff it seems dumb to throw 4.56s in. I'd throw 4.88s and suck it up and do the rear at the same time. Sad to do something twice, or in my case 4 or 5 times? I wish I had 4.88s with 35s anyway, so I know 4.56 with 37s is going to be undesireable.
I almost wonder if for a similar price Iof putting another $800 into my rear axleif I could just sell the whole thing and swap to a Ford 9" with 4.88s and an ARB...
From Brian at FROR-
No drive shaft changes.
The intermediate housing, shaft, mounts, bushings etc would all come from us, and are not OEM parts. The 8" steps
up from 26 spline to 30 spline shafts. Major change, with serious upgrade.
I almost wonder if for a similar price Iof putting another $800 into my rear axleif I could just sell the whole thing and swap to a Ford 9" with 4.88s and an ARB...
From Brian at FROR-
No drive shaft changes.
The intermediate housing, shaft, mounts, bushings etc would all come from us, and are not OEM parts. The 8" steps
up from 26 spline to 30 spline shafts. Major change, with serious upgrade.
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seanpistol
Explorer
Our CVs are 26 spline inner and 30 spline outer.
2nd-gen Tundra/TACO CVs are 30 spline inner and 34 spline outer.
Trying to figure out now if I can frankenstein a 30 spline inner off a 2nd-gen Tundra and our 30 spline outer onto one of the extended axle shafts, but I don't think it's going to work. That would leave custom axles as the option.
2nd-gen Tundra/TACO CVs are 30 spline inner and 34 spline outer.
Trying to figure out now if I can frankenstein a 30 spline inner off a 2nd-gen Tundra and our 30 spline outer onto one of the extended axle shafts, but I don't think it's going to work. That would leave custom axles as the option.
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
Just a thought, might want to check the ID of the spindle where the bearing mounts. You might get lucky and it's the same ID and thickness as the Gen1. If so, you could press the Gen2 bearing and hub into your Gen1 spindle. Probably not the case, but worth a look anyway.