seanpistol's 01 Tundra

[smokeysevin]

Thats the gist of it. Pardon the bird poo welds.

Cycles 14" metal to metal on the shock. The travel is progressive to 1:1 as it approaches bump and the shock to cantilever angle is 90 degrees at bump. The bags arent in yet but will live there and I have 2 2.5 inch diameter air bumps that will go outside the frame over the axle.

Sean

 

[zidaro]

^^^^^ ************. nice DIY

 

[spazstic]

I came across this on Socaltundras and it's along the lines of what I'm looking for, but I'd make my "bed cage" more low profile and simpler than what is going on here. He has pretty good angles. The ideal shock angle is perpendicular to the imaginary line between the eyes on the leaf at full compression, and inboarded 10 to 15 degrees. You can see that his lower shock mount is on top of the leaf pack. He is running Deaver G57s leafs which bolt right into the factory location, and is claiming he is strapped at 14" of travel. Not sure if I buy that he has quite that much, but it sounds nice!

I have the G57s and I've measured 14" of travel without shocks. My shocks currently limit me - until my custom Kings are done, then I'll have 12" of travel. They're 2.5" 2-tube bypasses with reservoirs, and they'll fit under the bed (you have to fab upper and lower mounts). If you're interested, I can give you the specs that you can take to King. The tube location and valving has been designed for my truck, which I think is the same setup as yours. They have a 17" compressed length so they won't hang below the axle. I used Total Chaos mounts from their Tacoma kit.

I considered doing something similar to this Tundra, but I don't want to cut into my bed. At all. I use the bed constantly, and don't want to lose any room or have any holes in it for stuff to fall through. And cantilever was out since I want to keep a 35" spare under the bed.

Plus, you won't be able to fit your 35's in the rear with this setup without doing glass. You would have to move the shock inside of the frame, and then you're REALLY cutting into the bed.

 

[spazstic]

Some good food for thought on spindle gussets from a guy that really knows his **** (and successfully runs 37s on his first gen Tundra with LT) -

http://www.ttora.com/forum/1669976-post7.html

I always include gussets on any of my buddies builds... I broke a spindle on my truck. After having a set of gussets sitting in the garage for 6 months prior.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/151051-broken-spindle-aka-spindle-gussets-why/

 

[seanpistol]

I have the G57s and I've measured 14" of travel without shocks. My shocks currently limit me - until my custom Kings are done, then I'll have 12" of travel. They're 2.5" 2-tube bypasses with reservoirs, and they'll fit under the bed (you have to fab upper and lower mounts). If you're interested, I can give you the specs that you can take to King. The tube location and valving has been designed for my truck, which I think is the same setup as yours. They have a 17" compressed length so they won't hang below the axle. I used Total Chaos mounts from their Tacoma kit.

I considered doing something similar to this Tundra, but I don't want to cut into my bed. At all. I use the bed constantly, and don't want to lose any room or have any holes in it for stuff to fall through. And cantilever was out since I want to keep a 35" spare under the bed.

The more I've been looking into it, the more I think I'm going to go a similar route you are. Cantilever is out for me for the same reason. In the winter my configuration is a 35" spare underneath and a snowmobile in the bed. An extra 2" of travel isn't worth going through the bed when it doesn't seem that I will be able to retain the 4' width between the wheel wells. Our rear axle just doesn't have the width. This guy went as far outboard as you can go, and it's still just not good enough for me to sacrifice my bed space. If I could get the top of the shock in the worthless area on top of the wheel well, I'd be all for it. The geometry won't allow it to work like that.






And this guy did a pretty good job keeping things out of his holes. We all know how difficult that can be...

Plus, you won't be able to fit your 35's in the rear with this setup without doing glass.

Well that's just not true...

I haven't looked at it recently, but another thought is that by building a new crossmember you should be able to tuck the 35" spare another inch or two higher. Mine hangs down quite a bit below my bumper.

 

[smokeysevin]

Regarding the spindle gusset discussion. That picture is exactly what happened to me. I make a point to tell people to weld in the uniball adapters and run spindle gussets. The camburg adapters are one piece and include the spacers for the bottom of the uniball so they arent as nice to weld but are a little tougher. The total chaos ones are separate and use standard misalignments.

Sean

 

[spazstic]

Well that's just not true...

In order to have a shock fit on the outside of the frame, you need to run a spacer. Right now my 35's fill the entire rear fender - I rub on the inside of the wheel well and on the lip of the fender when they're tucked and articulating. So unless you lift it where the tire no longer tucks in the fender, you can't have an outboard shock with 35's and stock fenders. The truck in the first pic has rear glass. Actually looking at the pics you posted I think you were being sarcastic haha.

I haven't looked at it recently, but another thought is that by building a new crossmember you should be able to tuck the 35" spare another inch or two higher. Mine hangs down quite a bit below my bumper.

I'm planning on doing just exactly this. Once I get my new shocks in, I'm going to pull the bed off and cut out the existing crossmember and put a tube across the top of the frame for the upper shock mount tabs. I don't think I'll even need to fab a new crossmember, since I have such a beefy rear bumper creating a very rigid connection across the rear of the frame, and the tube for the shocks will give additional support. I can then move the spare up 2" and have it rest against the bottom of the bed - putting it in the same vertical location as my 33" spare. I bought a 3-point tie down and will weld two tabs to the rear framerails and one to the tube for my shock mounts. It's very rare I have to pull the spare out, so this will work just fine.

Also... that boxed in bed looks ugly as hell and still removes way too much usable space.

 

[seanpistol]

Regarding the spindle gusset discussion. That picture is exactly what happened to me. I make a point to tell people to weld in the uniball adapters and run spindle gussets. The camburg adapters are one piece and include the spacers for the bottom of the uniball so they arent as nice to weld but are a little tougher. The total chaos ones are separate and use standard misalignments.

Sean

Good input. What's your reasoning for welding the adapters in place?

Do you have a photo of your break?

In order to have a shock fit on the outside of the frame, you need to run a spacer. Right now my 35's fill the entire rear fender - I rub on the inside of the wheel well and on the lip of the fender when they're tucked and articulating. So unless you lift it where the tire no longer tucks in the fender, you can't have an outboard shock with 35's and stock fenders. The truck in the first pic has rear glass. Actually looking at the pics you posted I think you were being sarcastic haha.

I was being a little but not completely sarcastic. My 35s did rub on the lip of the fender, but I wasn't going to let that happen. I currently have 4.5" backspacing with 1.25" spacers.




I took about 1.5" out of the top and about .5" out of the front and rear of the outer fender. When you take an angle grinder to the fender, it separates the inner fender (that angles upwards to the top of the inner wheel well) from the outer fender. I got my outer fender how I wanted it and "pulled" the bedside about a half inch. I hammered the inner fender on the outboard edge where it angles up to the top of the inner wheel well (which was now detached) upwards a couple inches and tacked it back onto the bedside (or outer fender). Otherwise, my bedsides would flop around uncontrollably.



At the bottom, there wasn't enough material to work with so I made some small brackets to tack onto-




I hope that description wasn't too confusing. There is plenty of room to re-separate the inner from outer fenders and do further trimming. I have no doubt I can avoid any rub from 37s with 2" spacers. Will it look stock and not take any time or effort? No. But, I will not put fiberglass bedsides on my truck and my tires will not rub.

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Good input. What's your reasoning for welding the adapters in place?

I took about 1.5" out of the top and about .5" out of the front and rear of the outer fender. When you take an angle grinder to the fender, it separates the inner fender (that angles upwards to the top of the inner wheel well) from the outer fender. I got my outer fender how I wanted it and "pulled" the bedside about a half inch. I hammered the inner fender on the outboard edge where it angles up to the top of the inner wheel well (which was now detached) upwards a couple inches and tacked it back onto the bedside (or outer fender). Otherwise, my bedsides would flop around uncontrollably.



At the bottom, there wasn't enough material to work with so I made some small brackets to tack onto-




I hope that description wasn't too confusing. There is plenty of room to re-separate the inner from outer fenders and do further trimming. I have no doubt I can avoid any rub from 37s with 2" spacers. Will it look stock and not take any time or effort? No. But, I will not put fiberglass bedsides on my truck and my tires will not rub.

Thanks for that. I wanted to pull my rear fenders a bit and was looking at the pinch weld/seam, whatever you want to call it. Good to know that you can cut it, seperate, pull/hammer and then re-tack. I'll have to flex the truck out and see where I am, and then start cutting. I don't want to take anything out of my fenders front/rear, I just want to roll outwards about 3-5 inches higher than the bottom edge.

 

[Blackdawg]

:lurk:

 

[spazstic]

I took about 1.5" out of the top and about .5" out of the front and rear of the outer fender. When you take an angle grinder to the fender, it separates the inner fender (that angles upwards to the top of the inner wheel well) from the outer fender. I got my outer fender how I wanted it and "pulled" the bedside about a half inch. I hammered the inner fender on the outboard edge where it angles up to the top of the inner wheel well (which was now detached) upwards a couple inches and tacked it back onto the bedside (or outer fender). Otherwise, my bedsides would flop around uncontrollably.

Ah, I forgot you trimmed your rear fenders. I massaged the front and rear of mine but didn't trim them. I probably need to though - on harsh hits or severe articulation, the treaded portion of the extended sidewall on my KO2s hits the lip and gets chewed up. Although I'm worried that if I start to pull it out, all the dents I have in my rear fenders will just crinkle and it'll really look like ****. But I also don't need to space the rear out with my current plan, and I'd rather not anyway. I like my narrow wheelbase. In fact, I helped a buddy put a Total Chaos 2.5" over LT kit on his '15 Taco a couple months ago. My wheelbase is 2" narrower than his now.

 

[seanpistol]

Well since I am in the Middle East with plenty of time to think about things during 12 hour shifts, and I like changing my mind, and the Method 105 blanks are still a few weeks out, I changed my order from black to the machined finish with black lock ring. lol




Still need to order:

- three +3.5" CV axle shafts
- alignment cam bolts
- spindle/coilover bucket gussets
- 35" tires for the 17" wheels

Going to wait until I get the front end together to determine:

- if I can't trim my stock front fenders enough
- the rear suspension

Still thinking about all these things constantly, it's just going to be a few months before I start wrenching.

 

[Blackdawg]

****. Id just go for ray10s and get them converted to bead locks.

And Id just go ahead and plan on fiberglass fenders. At least be ready to buy them because I'm sure you'll have too

 

[toyotech]

Go fender less!! Mad max it!! What's wrong with trimming really high? I think you answer but I forgot


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[theBullfrog125]

Go fender less!! Mad max it!! What's wrong with trimming really high? I think you answer but I forgot


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He'd have to lose his undercover snokel