seanpistol's 01 Tundra

spazstic

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
Just a thought, might want to check the ID of the spindle where the bearing mounts. You might get lucky and it's the same ID and thickness as the Gen1. If so, you could press the Gen2 bearing and hub into your Gen1 spindle. Probably not the case, but worth a look anyway.
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
I have an update in true rollercoaster fashion. It's the only way I do things. :sombrero:

Well I've been thinking long and hard about it, and think I'm going to puss out on 37s right now and stick with 35s. I am going to swap the 37s for 35" ST MAXX so I can run the 17" beadlocks.

I can save myself $4k by throwing an ARB into my 7.5" diff and not switching to the 8" diff at all, along with the RCV axles and a regear from 4.56 to 4.88 in the rear. It would cost me $4k to do it right, and I'm already spending a good chunk of change to get LT in the first place and switching to beadlocks.

Seems smarter to make 35s and my new suspension work properly first and then dig into 37s a couple years down the road.

Think I'm going to order the 3" Trailer Products fenders.
 
rickashay

rickashay

Explorer
I think it's a good move. You're throwing a LOT of changes at the rig all at once and this route you can get everything buttoned up and then move to the extra work to get the big tires to fit down the road. Hell, I'm just stoked to see this thing on LT and beadlocks!
 
spazstic

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
Agreed. Probably the best move. I put the ARB in my 7.5" diff and am happy with it. I also run remanufactured axles but carry a spare. AutoZone gives a lifetime warranty, so when the boot wears out, just take it in for replacement. Easy and cheap.
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
Blender said:
That's the logical/safe choice. You'll just end up spending the $4k somewhere else though.
Click to expand...


rickashay said:
I think it's a good move. You're throwing a LOT of changes at the rig all at once and this route you can get everything buttoned up and then move to the extra work to get the big tires to fit down the road. Hell, I'm just stoked to see this thing on LT and beadlocks!
Click to expand...

spazstic said:
Agreed. Probably the best move. I put the ARB in my 7.5" diff and am happy with it. I also run remanufactured axles but carry a spare. AutoZone gives a lifetime warranty, so when the boot wears out, just take it in for replacement. Easy and cheap.
Click to expand...


I hope I don't spend $4000 somewhere else... but a TacoBox is on my dream sheet. LT and beadlocks alone is going to be a lot of fun. Can't wait to run 4 psi in a few feet of snow!


I got some good advice recently when trying to figure out what to do with the rear... build it for going fast and the slow stuff will come easy.

Articulation was a higher priority than going fast when I decided to go the long travel route. I usually avoid going fast because I don't want to break anything and I need to drive to work the next day. But, the new front end is going to open some new possibilities and I may as well make the rear able to keep up.

At this point I'm pretty convinced I want to stay SOA. I'll probably want to move the front hanger forward to run a longer spring and may as well retain the Archive Garage shackle flip. I'd like to bring the shocks up through the bed but still be able to retain the full 4' width between the wheel wells from front to back so I can get sheets of plywood or drywall from Home Depot and haul my sled. I still need to do "truck things".

I came across this on Socaltundras and it's along the lines of what I'm looking for, but I'd make my "bed cage" more low profile and simpler than what is going on here. He has pretty good angles. The ideal shock angle is perpendicular to the imaginary line between the eyes on the leaf at full compression, and inboarded 10 to 15 degrees. You can see that his lower shock mount is on top of the leaf pack. He is running Deaver G57s leafs which bolt right into the factory location, and is claiming he is strapped at 14" of travel. Not sure if I buy that he has quite that much, but it sounds nice!





 
T

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
14in of travel isnt to hard to come up with on g57s.. actually sounds about right.. but in that picture there is quite a bit of spring seperation.. which is useless wheel travel.. i plan on running spring under springs once i go LT and will have some g57s for sale.. they just dont have enough spring to them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
That's why I'm not sure I buy 14" of travel. I'd strap mine at the point when the leaves first begin to separate for the longetivity of the springs.

I also need a spring that can handle a more weight than the stock g57 and sits a little higher. I like SOA for the ground clearance and don't feel the need for the massive amounts of compression (or the price tag) I'd get from a SUA.

I'll probably contact both Alcan and Deaver about a custom pack.
 
Last edited:
C

Climbermac

Observer
Have you looked at MCM Design and Fab in Vegas? Matt makes a cantilever kit that he lists netting 18" of travel with his full setup, C27 SUA Deavers and his shackles. I can't imagine you couldn't work with him to augment the design to use your non-inverted shackles and stay SOA. You will likely loose a bit of travel off his initial design but if it really starts at 18" you may end up netting 14" or maybe more. I also dig the design of running a cantilever setup because it retains the integrity of the bed for "truck stuff"

my 2¢

-mac
 
smokeysevin

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
Even if you DIY it like I did its not cheap if you do it right. I am running delirin pivot bushings, heim joint ends on the connecting rods, about 8 feet of DOM tubing, weld washers, and the plate steel for the cantilever arms.

I have probably 600 in it now not counting the scrap plate I used for the arms, and the shocks. That said it rides great and I kept my bed. I also left room to install the dominator bags I have to keep the saggy g57s off the concrete.

I set the whole thing up to use a 10 inch shock and limit out right at 14" of total travel (which is more than the wheeler's off road extended travel rear brake line will do). When I get a few minutes in the next week or so I will post pictures.

Sean
 
T

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
yea please post.. id like to see that.. im doing a btf 4wd kit and will be doing something in the back..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
smokeysevin said:
Even if you DIY it like I did its not cheap if you do it right. I am running delirin pivot bushings, heim joint ends on the connecting rods, about 8 feet of DOM tubing, weld washers, and the plate steel for the cantilever arms.

I have probably 600 in it now not counting the scrap plate I used for the arms, and the shocks. That said it rides great and I kept my bed. I also left room to install the dominator bags I have to keep the saggy g57s off the concrete.

I set the whole thing up to use a 10 inch shock and limit out right at 14" of total travel (which is more than the wheeler's off road extended travel rear brake line will do). When I get a few minutes in the next week or so I will post pictures.

Sean
Click to expand...

Good on ya for doing the cantilever DIY. I'd like to see it.
 
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