Blackdawg
Dr. Frankenstein
Won't be the height that'll be the issue with the lovely long travel kit. It'll be the width
seanpistol's 01 Tundra
- Thread starter seanpistol
- Start date
Won't be the height that'll be the issue with the lovely long travel kit. It'll be the width
seanpistol
Explorer
Just got some emails back on this from http://www.jerseybuilthubs.biz/, who builds bolt on hub assemblies. It would have been a great quick-and-easy option to avoid a set of $2700 custom RCV axles, but it turns out that the 1st gen Tundra bearing is larger than the 2nd gen Tacoma bearing so it won't work.
However, I bet Solo could build a fabricated spindle to make it all work if this path wanted to be pursued in the future. The fabricated spindle would still be cheaper than the RCV axles, and I think keeping the CVs as the weak link in the front end is the best option.
seanpistol
Explorer
I'd be surprised if that didn't have to happen regardless. Only way to really find out what need to happen is to cycle the front end without the coilovers and start cutting.
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
I'm leaning towards putting glass on the front. McNeil makes a 4" bulge fender that looks nice and runs $375 for the pair.
https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/products/00-06-toyota-tundra-off-road-fiberglass-fenders
Got my bypasses in for the rear. Ended up going 10" stroke, the 12" stroke was going to cost another $500 and I decided it wasn't worth it. I plan on mounting them up on Thursday or Friday.
I also picked up a brake proportioning valve from Kartek. I'm going to remove the rear proportioning valve completely and set up a fixed distribution with it.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx
Probably should have done this a lot sooner, since my rear is about 2" over stock height and I never adjusted it. I figure the braking force on the rear has been much too light these past 5 years.
https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/products/00-06-toyota-tundra-off-road-fiberglass-fenders
Got my bypasses in for the rear. Ended up going 10" stroke, the 12" stroke was going to cost another $500 and I decided it wasn't worth it. I plan on mounting them up on Thursday or Friday.
I also picked up a brake proportioning valve from Kartek. I'm going to remove the rear proportioning valve completely and set up a fixed distribution with it.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx
Probably should have done this a lot sooner, since my rear is about 2" over stock height and I never adjusted it. I figure the braking force on the rear has been much too light these past 5 years.
seanpistol
Explorer
I recently put on a lspv relocation bracket and was a little disappointed with myself that I didn't do it sooner. Braking was significantly better with almost no nose diving.
Are you going to put the 10" stroke shocks in the stock location then or are you still planning on making a mew crossmember?
I'm really just not a big fan of the look of glass fenders but if I end up needing them I go back and fourth between the glassworks and trailer products 3" glass. They have the most mellow lines IMO.
Are you going to put the 10" stroke shocks in the stock location then or are you still planning on making a mew crossmember?
I'm really just not a big fan of the look of glass fenders but if I end up needing them I go back and fourth between the glassworks and trailer products 3" glass. They have the most mellow lines IMO.
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
The LSPV bracket never did it for me. Maybe its a DC thing, but since I put on my Wilwood valve I've loved my brakes, especially now with 35's. ABS does not cut in as much and you really notice the lack of front end dive. For $50, its awesome. Its also super easy, if you have any questions, let me know. Happy to help. Some pictures and info in my thread.
Since I am thinking about LT, I've also been thinking about glass, so I am interested to see what you can fit with lots of cutting hahahah. I don't care about the look, its making the truck wider than it already is, a fat pig around 90 inches wide. I tell my self I won't be wider than my buddy Jeep on 37's and 1tons, so thats a plus. However, he can go over more stuff than I can hahaha.
I like the Glassworks 4" flare and 3" rise the best for the AC.
Since I am thinking about LT, I've also been thinking about glass, so I am interested to see what you can fit with lots of cutting hahahah. I don't care about the look, its making the truck wider than it already is, a fat pig around 90 inches wide. I tell my self I won't be wider than my buddy Jeep on 37's and 1tons, so thats a plus. However, he can go over more stuff than I can hahaha.
I like the Glassworks 4" flare and 3" rise the best for the AC.
Do you have a part number for the willwood valve? I've always hated how my AC breaks and even more so once I put on steel rims. I'd definitely take some help and I don't think we're too far apart
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-12627/overview/
Manufacturer's Part Number: 260-12627
That's the metric version. The SAE is the same, just different fittings. Its personal choice, but they will both work the same, however Greggs will have all the fittings you need.
Manufacturer's Part Number: 260-12627
That's the metric version. The SAE is the same, just different fittings. Its personal choice, but they will both work the same, however Greggs will have all the fittings you need.
Blackdawg
Dr. Frankenstein
Or you can get this and it has everything you need.
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/
I plumbed mine right at the MC. Works great.
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/
I plumbed mine right at the MC. Works great.
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
I'm going to cut out the spare tire crossmember out and weld some tabs in for a 3-point strap for the spare. The 35x12.5 should have the same clearance as the 33x10.5 afterward. I'm then going to put tube across the top of the frame rail for an upper shock mount. I picked up a pair of lower shock mounts from Total Chaos for the '15+ Tacoma. They fit the axle perfect, and I think they'll only need to stick below the axle 1" to fit the compressed length of the bypasses.
I don't like the glass fenders either, but I'm also getting sick of the tires throwing mud and everything else across the front of the truck and windshield. It'd be nice to cut down on that.
seanpistol
Explorer
Came across a deal. Diffs with 4.88s and ARBs front/rear are on the way to my house. This will be the fourth time I have swapped differentials, and might not be the last for the front. Ha!
I will be able to ship the diffs currently in my truck the second week of March. 4.56 gears, open front/ARB rear. Less than 10,000 miles on them. Pick them up in Salt Lake for $1700 or we can ship. Again, second week of March.
I will be able to ship the diffs currently in my truck the second week of March. 4.56 gears, open front/ARB rear. Less than 10,000 miles on them. Pick them up in Salt Lake for $1700 or we can ship. Again, second week of March.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Ahh. So tempting. I'm probably not gonna jump up to 34s. Maybe 33s as I'm on 32s now due to factory gearing. I'm gonna go with harrop elocker instead of air
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
I actually just fired off and e-mail to Harrop, eagerly awaiting the response. I too have been thinking about that.
Sean, I gotta ask, where and how much did that deal cost ya on the lockers, thats a solid pickup.
I'd consider, but I thinking I am gone March so I won't be around then.
spazstic
Lives for the weekend
************. I love my ARBs and 4.88s. I'm also curious to know. I think I spent around $3700 for mine. That's with Yotamasters doing a bench install.
seanpistol
Explorer
I am trying to break even on the diff swap.
Also ready to go mid-March:
Camburg UCAs with updated uniballs - $400
Fox coilovers with 16" 700 lb springs, remote resi with DSC adjuster - SOLD
315/75r16 Duratracs 3-ply sidewall with <10,000 miles on 16" 4.5" backspace ATX Chamber teflon wheels with some rock rash- $1100
OEM LCAs - $beer or box of flies
Two sets of 13" 650 lb 3" ID springs, one red labeled SAW/Camburg (made by Eibach) and one silver Eibach - $bestoffer
Also ready to go mid-March:
Camburg UCAs with updated uniballs - $400
Fox coilovers with 16" 700 lb springs, remote resi with DSC adjuster - SOLD
315/75r16 Duratracs 3-ply sidewall with <10,000 miles on 16" 4.5" backspace ATX Chamber teflon wheels with some rock rash- $1100
OEM LCAs - $beer or box of flies
Two sets of 13" 650 lb 3" ID springs, one red labeled SAW/Camburg (made by Eibach) and one silver Eibach - $bestoffer
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