seanpistol's 01 Tundra

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
I know I should make my own build thread... If you're tired of me clogging your build thread up, let me know.

Got my bypasses and spare tire mount in this weekend. Turned out figuring out how to fit the spare and still keep the strength of the bed took the longest amount of time.

Ended up boxing in the remainder of the frame and placing tubing across the structural areas of the frame where boxed. The tubing is not crossed at the center. As much as the aesthetics of it bugged me, it's the only area under the bed where I will have to notch a rib running underneath. By not crossing it, I was able to reduce the amount I need to notch from ~10" to ~3". There will still be some of the rib left above the notch, and that will be plated on both sides to reinforce it.

The 3-point strap worked out great, and lifting the 35 into place was actually a lot easier than I expected. You basically rock the tire into the loose strap and then ratchet it up into place. Not bad at all. And I think it even sits higher than the 33 did.

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35 Mounted. Strap excess will be cleaned up.
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Full droop
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Full compression
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Was surprised at the amount of negative arch these Deavers go to at full compression. I never saw the need for a spring under conversion until this.
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105mm jack extension lol
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seanpistol

Explorer
Nice fab work! But... for go fast stuff, you want your shock to be perpindicular to the line between the eyes of the leaf spring at compression, which is angled forward. With the rearward angled shocks, when you compress the leafs you are increasing the angle between the shock and the line between the eyes of the leaf and making them less effective in doing their job the more they are compressed.
 
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Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Im sorry but those cross braces are....bugging my OCD and they also aren't as strong if you had just done a nice clean X. haha But understandable why you did it. Also im kinda shocked you're okay with that much negative arch. Id have bumped it long before that. Would have allowed you to lower your cross brace from the top of the frame too to avoid the notching issue.

Looks great otherwise!
 

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Love those bypasses!

How much travel are you getting before your gas bumps kick in?

If your bored, let me know what the collapsed measurement of those Kings are. I know they are a one off with no PN.

Is that the Archive Garage lower shock mount?

You need your own build thread.
 

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
Nice fab work! But... for go fast stuff, you want your shock to be perpindicular to the line between the eyes of the leaf spring at compression, which is angled forward. With the rearward angled shocks, when you compress the leafs you are increasing the angle between the shock and the line between the eyes of the leaf and making them less effective in doing their job the more they are compressed.

True. But to mount them forward of the axle meant going to a fuel cell. I didn't want the loss of capacity, cost, or headache in doing that.

Im sorry but those cross braces are....bugging my OCD and they also aren't as strong if you had just done a nice clean X. haha But understandable why you did it. Also im kinda shocked you're okay with that much negative arch. Id have bumped it long before that. Would have allowed you to lower your cross brace from the top of the frame too to avoid the notching issue.

Looks great otherwise!

Believe me, it bugged me too. I almost cut it out and X'd it up several times. But kept telling myself that it would be hidden under the bed and no one would see it anyway. And in the end, I'd rather the bed be stronger. As it is, it's plenty strong enough.

Love those bypasses!

How much travel are you getting before your gas bumps kick in?

If your bored, let me know what the collapsed measurement of those Kings are. I know they are a one off with no PN.

Is that the Archive Garage lower shock mount?

You need your own build thread.

I have 6" of bump travel, and 4" of that is the air bumps. I originally mounted the 4" bumps to work as "airbags" when I have a heavy load in the bed. They actually work very well for that purpose. However, I've considered replacing them for some 2" bumps in the future.

The compressed size of my Kings as 17.38". If you went with a 12" it'd be almost 20" compressed. You can look on King's site and just remove 1" from any of the 2.5" bypass shocks to account for the welded rod end. That's the only change that made a difference on compressed length.

Yep, archive garage SFK with their shackles.

Yes, I need my own build thread, haha. I might start on it later this week. But 5 years of photos is a lot to go through ha.
 

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
I doubt the springs will allow that much negative arch. That's only the main leaf. Put the rest of the pack in there.

They have to be allowing it. I regularly bottom out the rear (with my old shocks), and that's mocked up to full bump. Keep in mind, the leafs sit close to flat at ride height.

If I ever notice the leafs wearing out, I'll likely plan on doing a SUA conversion with a more arched leaf set. But these springs still work well, although soft, but with the adjustable damping of the bypasses, I think it'll be a great setup.
 

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
Which LT kit did you end up choosing? I think I missed it earlier, for some reason I want to say SOLO but I am not sure.


Deaver C27s, add a slip yoke to the Drive shaft for the SUA.

Thanks,

Sean
 

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