Supertramp Flagship LT pop-up slide-in pickup camper

anders0ndg

New member
Trailer Latch Lock For Up To 1-5/8" Wide Trailer Coupler Latch - (11/16" Depth) - 2PK (2) 1-5/8" Trailer Coupler Latch Locks
SKU: 61459-D

That’s what my invoice says.

As I mentioned they were a tad lose so I put some tubing over the pin to tighten them up. The lock pin is exactly 0.250” so 1/4” ID tubing worked perfectly.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you!!
 

twowheels19

New member
I wanted to thank everyone here that has contributed to this thread and to Chadx for starting it. So much great technical information and experiences. I’ve finally just finished going through all 29 pages here on ExPo. I sometimes revisit the thread to reread in case I missed something.

We have an LT coming in the near future (Dec. or Jan.) and we’ve secured the new to us truck. I started researching STC before they produced their first unit so this an exciting time for sure.

We love camping out of the JLURD that we’ve built but this new rig will save us a bunch of time setting up and breaking down camp which equates to more fun time. It will also allow a wee bit more storage.

Maybe we’ll cross paths with some of you in the future.
Cheers
 

twowheels19

New member
Fellow LT owners,

I was looking into other battery/ charging possibilities to accommodate a future Dometic 12v a/c unit. Can anyone here verify the battery compartment dimensions in the kitchen cabinet well and the center and driver side bench wells, please? I was looking at the Victron 12v 200 a/h battery specs and it looks to be 160mm or 6.3” wide. I was comparing the Lithionics 12v 320 a/h specs and that is roughly 6.5” wide. Has anyone successfully retrofitted a similar battery spec in the LT battery wells before?
 

Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
Fellow LT owners,

I was looking into other battery/ charging possibilities to accommodate a future Dometic 12v a/c unit. Can anyone here verify the battery compartment dimensions in the kitchen cabinet well and the center and driver side bench wells, please? I was looking at the Victron 12v 200 a/h battery specs and it looks to be 160mm or 6.3” wide. I was comparing the Lithionics 12v 320 a/h specs and that is roughly 6.5” wide. Has anyone successfully retrofitted a similar battery spec in the LT battery wells before?

@twowheels19 We've discussed it directly, but for other readers, I'll mention that STC doesn't retrofit A/C units to Flagship campers because retrofitting the wiring is a challenge. So, everyone be sure to keep that in mind when deciding on camper options. There is a non-advertised "A/C prep" package, where the A/C wiring is run but no A/C unit installed. Only with that pre-wiring package will STC add the Dometic A/C at a later date if not installed in the original build. Similar to ordering an A/C, the "A/C Prep" option will require one to decide if you want the A/C to replace the front or rear vent.

Back to batteries. 100Ah Battleborn batteries are 12.76L" x 6.86"W x 8.95"H so the 6.86" width is wider than both the batteries you mention. For a while, I had two LiTime 100Ah Smart Heated batteries in our camper. I have four of them and I planned to put in all four. Dimensions of those are 10.24"L x 6.61"W x 8.27"H so the two fit really easily in the electronic cabinet. The other two would normally fit easily in the driver's side cabinet, but I had a custom shelf bracket installed in our build so unfortunately the batteries could not slide into place. But by then, other challenges came up so I'd abandoned the use of these particular LiTime altogether. Besides the desire to expand the battery bank, the other reason I was switching to the LiTime was because the Battleborn, used for our build, were not smart batteries. Battleborn didn't even make them back then, though they do now. I wanted a battery with the bluetooth "Smart" feature so I could see details from the BMS. With non-smart batteries, one only knows what the Battery Monitor and shunt share. Usually that is good, but Battery Monitor SOC will be inaccurate when the internal battery heater uses power (since that is not registered by the shunt). When the batteries recharge after internal battery heater use, the battery monitor SOC is inaccurately high until the battery reaches a true 100% SOC again at which time the battery monitor is reset and accurate once again. I like the LiTime batteries for the price point, features, and size, but it was not all roses. I noticed peculiar behavior with the two LiTime in parallel. I'll digress from the battery dimension discussion, and elaborate, in the next paragraph.

What I'm about to describe has now been well documented for a wide range of economy LiFePO4 smart battery brands such as LiTime, Watt Cycle, etc. (though even Renogy and some "higher end" brands mention this in passing). Also, note that I mentioned smart, because the non-bluetooth enabled models do not exhibit this behavior, supposedly. Not that you'd know because you can't tell based on the terminal voltage since they are wired in parallel.
The situation is that many of these smart batteries are programmed to only draw from one battery, with small loads, when wired in parallel and all sitting at 100% SOC. The other batteries sit in "StandbyFull" mode and so do not power the load. Then, once that load-bearing battery is drawn down X volts below others (or more correctly, the terminal voltage and internal cell voltage have enough of a spread), they will wake up and share the load. There is a very technical paper, available on the Watts Cycle battery website, on why they did this (partly has to do with not wanting the battery protect circuit to kick off and on and off and on when voltage is sitting right at the trigger voltage so they turn off until there is a certain spread between the terminal voltage and the internal cell voltage, but also just some variance in internal resistance, etc.).

This sounds good on paper and the other batteries are supposed to wake up at a fairly high SOC, but in practice, the other batteries occasionally don't wake up until they are fairly low SOC and when they do, then they output current into other battery that was drawn down to a lower SOC. Though the batteries in StandbyFull mode usually connect when the active battery is still at a fairly high SOC, when they don't and the active battery is drawn to a lower SOC, this bothers my brain. And I'm not alone according to various forums and videos. But, in the big picture, probably not a huge deal as we are talking when there are light loads. And, there are work arounds such as turning on a high draw load (50+amp) which triggers draw from all batteries and all come out of StandbyFull mode. Since it doesn't trigger unless all batteries in parallel are at a very high state of charge (think 14.4v - 14.6v), some users have lowered their chargers (solar controllers, DC/DC, AC, etc.) to 13.9v to avoid the StandbyFull mode from activating. But really one could just use them as normal and move on.

Second item that wasn't all roses; I am also in the middle of a warranty claim on one of my four LiTime batteries. Seems like a cell was, or went, bad as every time it chargers to high SOC, it goes into cell balance mode for extended period of time and also disconnects and goes into "over voltage protect" mode even though I was charging to the recommended 14.4v. They sent me a shipping label, I shipped it back and am awaiting a verdict. Luckily, I had the original battleborn laying here so swapped them back into the camper. I also had two other LiTime 100Ah in my fishing boat, so could have used those if it came down to it. But, it seems like issues with LiTime are rare, so we'll see how this replacement battery does (provided they approve a replacement which is what I expect). Unless proven otherwise, I'll chalk this up to a fluke and still would buy more LiTime. As a matter of fact, I will be buying a 48v battery as part of a home backup system and will likely get a LiTime brand.

But back to fitment in various compartments. I don't have compartment dimension in front of me, but had measured for another size LiTime battery model that is 12v 165Ah and determined two of those will fit in the electronics cabinet. Those are 13.0"L x 6.77"W x 8.5"H. Narrower and barely longer than the 100ah Battleborn so seems like a great choice for way more amps in the space. Two of those would also fit over in the driver's side compartment as well for a total of four.
4 x 165ah would give you 660Ah. And that 660Ah is at the same price point as 200ah Battleborn (though I fully acknowledge there is more to it than price as some value supporting US companies even if all their components are from other countries and only assembled here). Lots of choices out there so something right for everyone.

Will be curious what other batteries folks find that fit.

I can grab some dimensions at some point, but as for the main electronics cabinet and drivers side, anything narrower than 6.88" like the battleborn is sure to fit and up to about 13" long (totally 26"), but I'll have to double check that total length mainly to ensure it leave enough room for the water valve to flip open.

Oh, another battery fitment consideration. While two 12" - 13" batteries total 24" - 26" and fit in the battery box just fine, but don't expect to be able to install a single 24" - 26" battery. I don't recall the width of the electronics cabinet opening, but that is your limiting factor on length as well as one of the three Truma heat ducts routed down in the left part of the compartment. There are some narrow, but very long, high Ah batteries that would fit once sitting in the battery box, but installing them through the electronics cabinet opening isn't possible.
 

twowheels19

New member
@twowheels19 We've discussed it directly, but for other readers, I'll mention that STC doesn't retrofit A/C units to Flagship campers because retrofitting the wiring is a challenge. So, everyone be sure to keep that in mind when deciding on camper options. There is a non-advertised "A/C prep" package, where the A/C wiring is run but no A/C unit installed. Only with that pre-wiring package will STC add the Dometic A/C at a later date if not installed in the original build. Similar to ordering an A/C, the "A/C Prep" option will require one to decide if you want the A/C to replace the front or rear vent.

Back to batteries. 100Ah Battleborn batteries are 12.76L" x 6.86"W x 8.95"H so the 6.86" width is wider than both the batteries you mention. For a while, I had two LiTime 100Ah Smart Heated batteries in our camper. I have four of them and I planned to put in all four. Dimensions of those are 10.24"L x 6.61"W x 8.27"H so the two fit really easily in the electronic cabinet. The other two would normally fit easily in the driver's side cabinet, but I had a custom shelf bracket installed in our build so unfortunately the batteries could not slide into place. But by then, other challenges came up so I'd abandoned the use of these particular LiTime altogether. Besides the desire to expand the battery bank, the other reason I was switching to the LiTime was because the Battleborn, used for our build, were not smart batteries. Battleborn didn't even make them back then, though they do now. I wanted a battery with the bluetooth "Smart" feature so I could see details from the BMS. With non-smart batteries, one only knows what the Battery Monitor and shunt share. Usually that is good, but Battery Monitor SOC will be inaccurate when the internal battery heater uses power (since that is not registered by the shunt). When the batteries recharge after internal battery heater use, the battery monitor SOC is inaccurately high until the battery reaches a true 100% SOC again at which time the battery monitor is reset and accurate once again. I like the LiTime batteries for the price point, features, and size, but it was not all roses. I noticed peculiar behavior with the two LiTime in parallel. I'll digress from the battery dimension discussion, and elaborate, in the next paragraph.

What I'm about to describe has now been well documented for a wide range of economy LiFePO4 smart battery brands such as LiTime, Watt Cycle, etc. (though even Renogy and some "higher end" brands mention this in passing). Also, note that I mentioned smart, because the non-bluetooth enabled models do not exhibit this behavior, supposedly. Not that you'd know because you can't tell based on the terminal voltage since they are wired in parallel.
The situation is that many of these smart batteries are programmed to only draw from one battery, with small loads, when wired in parallel and all sitting at 100% SOC. The other batteries sit in "StandbyFull" mode and so do not power the load. Then, once that load-bearing battery is drawn down X volts below others (or more correctly, the terminal voltage and internal cell voltage have enough of a spread), they will wake up and share the load. There is a very technical paper, available on the Watts Cycle battery website, on why they did this (partly has to do with not wanting the battery protect circuit to kick off and on and off and on when voltage is sitting right at the trigger voltage so they turn off until there is a certain spread between the terminal voltage and the internal cell voltage, but also just some variance in internal resistance, etc.).

This sounds good on paper and the other batteries are supposed to wake up at a fairly high SOC, but in practice, the other batteries occasionally don't wake up until they are fairly low SOC and when they do, then they output current into other battery that was drawn down to a lower SOC. Though the batteries in StandbyFull mode usually connect when the active battery is still at a fairly high SOC, when they don't and the active battery is drawn to a lower SOC, this bothers my brain. And I'm not alone according to various forums and videos. But, in the big picture, probably not a huge deal as we are talking when there are light loads. And, there are work arounds such as turning on a high draw load (50+amp) which triggers draw from all batteries and all come out of StandbyFull mode. Since it doesn't trigger unless all batteries in parallel are at a very high state of charge (think 14.4v - 14.6v), some users have lowered their chargers (solar controllers, DC/DC, AC, etc.) to 13.9v to avoid the StandbyFull mode from activating. But really one could just use them as normal and move on.

Second item that wasn't all roses; I am also in the middle of a warranty claim on one of my four LiTime batteries. Seems like a cell was, or went, bad as every time it chargers to high SOC, it goes into cell balance mode for extended period of time and also disconnects and goes into "over voltage protect" mode even though I was charging to the recommended 14.4v. They sent me a shipping label, I shipped it back and am awaiting a verdict. Luckily, I had the original battleborn laying here so swapped them back into the camper. I also had two other LiTime 100Ah in my fishing boat, so could have used those if it came down to it. But, it seems like issues with LiTime are rare, so we'll see how this replacement battery does (provided they approve a replacement which is what I expect). Unless proven otherwise, I'll chalk this up to a fluke and still would buy more LiTime. As a matter of fact, I will be buying a 48v battery as part of a home backup system and will likely get a LiTime brand.

But back to fitment in various compartments. I don't have compartment dimension in front of me, but had measured for another size LiTime battery model that is 12v 165Ah and determined two of those will fit in the electronics cabinet. Those are 13.0"L x 6.77"W x 8.5"H. Narrower and barely longer than the 100ah Battleborn so seems like a great choice for way more amps in the space. Two of those would also fit over in the driver's side compartment as well for a total of four.
4 x 165ah would give you 660Ah. And that 660Ah is at the same price point as 200ah Battleborn (though I fully acknowledge there is more to it than price as some value supporting US companies even if all their components are from other countries and only assembled here). Lots of choices out there so something right for everyone.

Will be curious what other batteries folks find that fit.

I can grab some dimensions at some point, but as for the main electronics cabinet and drivers side, anything narrower than 6.88" like the battleborn is sure to fit and up to about 13" long (totally 26"), but I'll have to double check that total length mainly to ensure it leave enough room for the water valve to flip open.

Oh, another battery fitment consideration. While two 12" - 13" batteries total 24" - 26" and fit in the battery box just fine, but don't expect to be able to install a single 24" - 26" battery. I don't recall the width of the electronics cabinet opening, but that is your limiting factor on length as well as one of the three Truma heat ducts routed down in the left part of the compartment. There are some narrow, but very long, high Ah batteries that would fit once sitting in the battery box, but installing them through the electronics cabinet opening isn't possible.
Thanks, @Chadx for your very helpful and informative feedback. I’ll dive into the things that you’ve mentioned.

At minimum we will be ordering the rear a/c prep package and possibly the complete package.

We’re looking into dual 50amp dc to dc chargers to promote faster charging without having to add to the LT’s solar array. We currently use an EcoFlow 800w alternator charger in the Jeep along with the D2 Max and love the fast recovery. Obviously we will have more equipment and load in the LT but also more battery storage.
We were not fortunate enough to order the truck with dual alternators or batteries but it has a single 250a alternator. If we add two 50a dc to dc chargers for a total of 100 additional amp load on the truck we will still be below 50% load on the alternator which from what I’ve read so far Is a good rule of thumb. I’d still like to confirm this though.
 

Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
...
We were not fortunate enough to order the truck with dual alternators or batteries but it has a single 250a alternator. If we add two 50a dc to dc chargers for a total of 100 additional amp load on the truck we will still be below 50% load on the alternator which from what I’ve read so far Is a good rule of thumb. I’d still like to confirm this though.

Hard to pin down a perfect rule of thumb but most say 50% to 70% load is ok for accessory load, but it depends on many things; underhood and alternator temps, idle rpm vs driving rpm (higher-than-idle rpm is better) and relectric load duration (minutes vs hours on end). That being said, 100amps is only 40% of 250amp alternator, so driving with 100amp amp load should be absolutely no problem. Even idling in heat should be fine, but worth keeping an eye on things in that specific high load and heat scenario.
 
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nmorrill25

New member
Hey folks, first time posting on this thread. Picked up camper number 15 used in san diego a little over a month ago and spent 3 weeks in it traveling back to montana. Absolutely love it. Plan is to drive the pan am in this rig starting in a couple years. Definitely want to do a bed replacement. It's between bowen and sherptek. Can any bowen owners comment on if skis fit in the bowen side boxes? Like the esthetic of the bowen beds way more but seems like the sherptek has way more storage.
 

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Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
Hey folks, first time posting on this thread. Picked up camper number 15 used in san diego a little over a month ago and spent 3 weeks in it traveling back to montana. Absolutely love it. Plan is to drive the pan am in this rig starting in a couple years. Definitely want to do a bed replacement. It's between bowen and sherptek. Can any bowen owners comment on if skis fit in the bowen side boxes? Like the esthetic of the bowen beds way more but seems like the sherptek has way more storage.

Welcome to the thread, @nmorrill25.
While I can't answer measurement questions, so other can could you confirm that the Bowen bed you are considering is the bed for slide-in campers, that keeps stock bed height, compared to a Bowen flatbed? And for 6.75' bed rather than longer (they make many lengths)?

The rear door, to access the long top compartmen, is optional and plenty big to allow skis to slide in, but hopefully someone can provide exact opening size. Same with overall compartment length, but would depend on ski length, of course. I suspect they will accommodate at least 180cm skis. Bowen would have those details as well.
Whether the specs come from bowen or an owner, it's interesting info to share. I didn't think to measure when I had access to STCs rig with a Bowen.

Similar to Bowen, Sherptek makes a slide-in version with lower deck height than their true flatbed version. I agree that looks like is a lot more storage space and easier access, but at the expense of it being more open to the elements rather than sealed like the Bowen. And without compartments, one would have to get creative with the best way to organize/separate/secure content in each single, huge side area.

Looking forward to this tray discussion to learn more.
 

twowheels19

New member
Hey folks, first time posting on this thread. Picked up camper number 15 used in san diego a little over a month ago and spent 3 weeks in it traveling back to montana. Absolutely love it. Plan is to drive the pan am in this rig starting in a couple years. Definitely want to do a bed replacement. It's between bowen and sherptek. Can any bowen owners comment on if skis fit in the bowen side boxes? Like the esthetic of the bowen beds way more but seems like the sherptek has way more storage.
Congratulations, @nmorrill25

About your consideration for the Bowen Customs bed upper compartment with rear access.
I’ve considered this as well and talked with Stu at Bowen Customs regarding dimensions and other details of their beds. He is very helpful and knowledgeable.
 

nmorrill25

New member
Welcome to the thread, @nmorrill25.
While I can't answer measurement questions, so other can could you confirm that the Bowen bed you are considering is the bed for slide-in campers, that keeps stock bed height, compared to a Bowen flatbed? And for 6.75' bed rather than longer (they make many lengths)?

The rear door, to access the long top compartmen, is optional and plenty big to allow skis to slide in, but hopefully someone can provide exact opening size. Same with overall compartment length, but would depend on ski length, of course. I suspect they will accommodate at least 180cm skis. Bowen would have those details as well.
Whether the specs come from bowen or an owner, it's interesting info to share. I didn't think to measure when I had access to STCs rig with a Bowen.

Similar to Bowen, Sherptek makes a slide-in version with lower deck height than their true flatbed version. I agree that looks like is a lot more storage space and easier access, but at the expense of it being more open to the elements rather than sealed like the Bowen. And without compartments, one would have to get creative with the best way to organize/separate/secure content in each single, huge side area.

Looking forward to this tray discussion to learn more.

Yes thats correct only interested in beds that maintain stock bed height. We wheel the truck pretty hard its on a full carli pintop system with a bunch of extra goodies and the engine makes about 600 horsepower. It's a super fun truck and I like to use it as such. Also can't stand the look of the huge gap in the cabover when you go with a regular flatbed.
 

nmorrill25

New member
Yes thats correct only interested in beds that maintain stock bed height. We wheel the truck pretty hard its on a full carli pintop system with a bunch of extra goodies and the engine makes about 600 horsepower. It's a super fun truck and I like to use it as such. Also can't stand the look of the huge gap in the cabover when you go with a regular flatbed.
Welcome to the thread, @nmorrill25.
While I can't answer measurement questions, so other can could you confirm that the Bowen bed you are considering is the bed for slide-in campers, that keeps stock bed height, compared to a Bowen flatbed? And for 6.75' bed rather than longer (they make many lengths)?

The rear door, to access the long top compartmen, is optional and plenty big to allow skis to slide in, but hopefully someone can provide exact opening size. Same with overall compartment length, but would depend on ski length, of course. I suspect they will accommodate at least 180cm skis. Bowen would have those details as well.
Whether the specs come from bowen or an owner, it's interesting info to share. I didn't think to measure when I had access to STCs rig with a Bowen.

Similar to Bowen, Sherptek makes a slide-in version with lower deck height than their true flatbed version. I agree that looks like is a lot more storage space and easier access, but at the expense of it being more open to the elements rather than sealed like the Bowen. And without compartments, one would have to get creative with the best way to organize/separate/secure content in each single, huge side area.

Looking forward to this tray discussion to learn more.

Thanks for the welcome Chad. In adding to my last post the sherptek bedsides are actually sealed to the camper. So less useful with the camper off but still totally dry and dust proof when the camper is on.
 

Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
Thanks for the welcome Chad. In adding to my last post the sherptek bedsides are actually sealed to the camper. So less useful with the camper off but still totally dry and dust proof when the camper is on.

Nice. I can see I need to revisit the Sherptek solution as the original dropsides didn't seal.
 

roamie

New member
I'm not ready to quite winterize the camper, but it's going to be sitting a few weeks between uses as the weather gets colder. I was running over things and noticed I'm getting between -4a to -9a discharge. I have checked that all of the following are off:
  • Fridge
  • Heater
  • Water pump
  • Inverter
  • Actuator switches
The only thing on is the battery heater. Is that an expected power draw for that? Anything else that I should check for?

I have it plugged into shore power right now to top up, it's at 70% and slowly draining, but I read that the system will let it go down to 60% before topping up again. But I was hoping to not need to keep it plugged in for just a 2-3 weeks of inactivity.
 

Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
I'm not ready to quite winterize the camper, but it's going to be sitting a few weeks between uses as the weather gets colder. I was running over things and noticed I'm getting between -4a to -9a discharge. I have checked that all of the following are off:
  • Fridge
  • Heater
  • Water pump
  • Inverter
  • Actuator switches
The only thing on is the battery heater. Is that an expected power draw for that? Anything else that I should check for?

I have it plugged into shore power right now to top up, it's at 70% and slowly draining, but I read that the system will let it go down to 60% before topping up again. But I was hoping to not need to keep it plugged in for just a 2-3 weeks of inactivity.


Battleborn battery heaters are internal and when heater switch is on, they burn battery power, but that consumption is not going through the shunt so your battery manager gauge (and percentage State of Charge) is not reflecting that draw, so the displayed SOC is higher than actual. Using battery heat, your batteries are more discharged then what will show on the battery manager and in Victron app. Your SOC will only be accurate once you charge up to 100% the next time. When you charge the next time, the gauge will hit 100% when the batteries are not yet 100%, so keep the charge on and they will continue to charge. Go by the power output of your battery charger (shore power or solar controller) to know when they are truly 100%. Charge current will drop to zero once they are truly 100% SOC. At that point, your battery monitor and victron app will be accurate again (until the next time you use internal battery heater).

But there is no benefit or need to keep the batteries heated except when you are charging them. An if using it, keeping the cabin heated will mean internal battery heat is not needed.
For storage, no reason to keep plugged into shore power full time if you are not running any load. Top battery bank to 100%, turn off battery heater switch and shut off all loads. The small draw for CO2 detector and use light won't run them down in a few weeks, even if you only have a single 100Ah battery. Turn on the battery heater and charger 24 hours before your trip and battery will warm up and then accept charge once up to about 40F and then charge up to 100% so you are ready for your trip.

For those storing long term, like for an entire winter with no use, best to get batteries to about 60% SOC (again, if used use battery heater since last 100% SOC, you can't relay on the battery manager % SOC, but you can go by resting voltage and LiFePO3 12v SOC voltage table). Then disconnect all loads (remove battery cables from battery terminals) and do not leave plugged into shore power. Batteries can sit all winter if disconnected and lose next to energy. Just check with multimeter every now and then to ensure resting voltage is at 13.1v or more (about 40% SOC). If it falls below 13.1v, warm them up and charge back up to resting voltage of about 13.2v (about 70% SOC). Note: It is VERY important to NOT have battery heat on when there is no charger connected because the battery heater will drain the battery. The BMS will disconnect once it's drained, but it is likely the battery will be ruined if left at that low voltage, for weeks, in the cold.
 
Last edited:

Chadx

♫ Offroad, again. Just can't wait to get...♫
I'm not ready to quite winterize the camper, but it's going to be sitting a few weeks between uses as the weather gets colder. I was running over things and noticed I'm getting between -4a to -9a discharge.
...The only thing on is the battery heater. Is that an expected power draw for that? Anything else that I should check for?

@roamie Went back to some of your previous posts and and guessing you have the Victron batteries. If so, then they have external battery heaters and power consumption that would be tracked by the shunt (the load you see when everything else is off and battery heaters are on) unlike the Battleborn and other brands that have internal heaters and power consumption that is not tracked by the shunt. If so, ignore all the internal heater comments above but I'll leave that info as it applies to those with Battleborn with internal heaters.
 

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