The Gubblemobile- Series III from hell.

[revor]

Yep 3/8 might be the way to go!! You will like that Mike! My Jeep with the saginaw (as you probably know) would steer through the rocks with 1 finger.. Caddy Steering we used to call it..

Jim. is that an 80 Series Box you are using? I am curious about the piston Diameter (estimate) for the power assist.. You know I'm getting old and my arm strength isn't what it used to be...

 

[Alaska Mike]

I got a set of OME shocks off an eBay auction that were supposed to be for a Series rig. I took a leap of faith, and they turned out to be 5 rear shocks for an Isuzu Trooper (N15s). 20.16" extended and 12.75" collapsed, which matches exactly nothing on any Series rig I can find. Oh well...

 

[Mercedesrover]

Jim. is that an 80 Series Box you are using? I am curious about the piston Diameter (estimate) for the power assist.. You know I'm getting old and my arm strength isn't what it used to be...

FJ60 box. Easy to find, cheap and fits like a glove. The Toyota high-pressure line even threads into the Benz p/s pump.

 

[ntsqd]

Looks like a Scout box would be problematic with it's front pointing pitman arm. Isn't that a bump stop bracket on the frame about where such a box would have to go?

 

[Mercedesrover]

You need to use a forward-facing pitman arm. That's why only a Scout or a FJ60 box will work, (as far as I know). Both are about the same dimensions but the Toyota box is just easier to find for me.

Here's a picture of the Toyota box in my 88".

 

[ntsqd]

Interesting. I really had to look to see that this wasn't a Scout box with a non-stock arm on it.

 

[Mercedesrover]

The nice thing about the Toyota box is you can use the Toyota pitman are too. The angle and length are right and the taper is the same as the Rover tie rod end.

 

[revor]

The nice thing about the Toyota box is you can use the Toyota pitman are too. The angle and length are right and the taper is the same as the Rover tie rod end.

Very nice! I do like that pitman arm, the Scout arm can create an adventure, nothing that isn't difficul to remedy but that 60 arm is perfect!

 

[ntsqd]

Very nice! I do like that pitman arm, the Scout arm can create an adventure, nothing that isn't difficul to remedy but that 60 arm is perfect!

You don't like 6 foot long pitman arms?

They're a pain when the box is still on a Scout. IH managed to get the knuckle steering arms in *just* the right place to interfere with the diff cover. So those are long to get enough full lock clearance, necessitating the long pitman arm.

 

[revor]

I used the appropriate tools to make mine a more reasonable length.:hehe:

 

[Yorker]

I got a set of OME shocks off an eBay auction that were supposed to be for a Series rig. I took a leap of faith, and they turned out to be 5 rear shocks for an Isuzu Trooper (N15s). 20.16" extended and 12.75" collapsed, which matches exactly nothing on any Series rig I can find. Oh well...

were those the ones that were"hung on the wall of the shop for a couple years" or something like that? I think I saw those

 

[Alaska Mike]

Yep. Live and learn.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Well, the guy won't take returns on the shocks, so I blasted him with negative feedback (kind of a limp weapon if you ask me). He said he got them from Atlantic British that way, which the guys at Atlantic British just laughed at. I don't know who is telling me the truth and who is lying, but right now I don't have a whole lot of options.

The lengths I have are as follows (from http://www.lazykracker.com/ome2005.html):

• N15 (what I got from eBay): 20.16" extended, 12.75" collapsed
• N41 (88 front- British Pacific): 19.46" extended, 12.05" collapsed
• N78 (88 front- Wise Owl, RN): 17.43" extended, 11.19" collapsed
• N85 (88 rear- Wise Owl, RN): 22.89" extended, 13.92" collapsed
• N90 (88 rear- Most vendors): 22.70" extended, 13.92" collapsed

I'm thinking what I'm seeing from the vendors are designed to work with parabolic (lift) springs, not my semi-saggy stock springs. If that's the case, I might be able to use a pair in the rear and try to sell the rest. I do have an offer from a local guy to buy two of my shocks for what I paid for them, which would help a little. Unfortunately, any measurements I make now will be incorrect, since I don't have any weight on the springs except for the frame itself.

Thoughts?

 

[ntsqd]

Weight on the springs doesn't mean anything to my way of thinking about shock mounts. I worry about compression damage first. Set the mounts so that at full stuff - max articulation - whatever is worst case so that they can not bottom out when the bump stops are blown off the frame and the axle is metal to metal with the frame. I adjust my margin based on my confidence in my arriving at the max possible stuff. This usually ranges 3/8"-3/4" depending on how close the mounts are to the springs. Further away = more margin.

Then look at if you've got enough shock stroke so that they are not your droop limiters.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Well, I figure the check straps will limit my downward travel, and since I have bottomed a shock a time or two and broken mounts and bent shocks I guess that's my biggest concern. That's why I was looking at using the N15s in the rear, since the compressed and extended lengths are shorter than the OMEs from the various vendors. We'll see how that goes...