poppensoffroad
New member
Call drive line specialty in Sioux Falls
They did my drive shafts was around 500 per shaft if I remember correctly.
They will tell you what measurement they need.
The ManVan. 06 E350 Chateau V10
- Thread starter rex_1_mn
- Start date
Call drive line specialty in Sioux Falls
They did my drive shafts was around 500 per shaft if I remember correctly.
They will tell you what measurement they need.
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
Don't order from Tom woods. Or if you do, make sure to specify everything is spicer parts.
I went round and round with him with his ****ty Chinese "gold seal" joints that were way out of tolerance on my JK drivelines. tons of vibrations, I videod the large amount of visible slop on the joints. Sent them back for warranty. He "checked the balance" and sent them right back. Problem got worse and literally shook parts off of my jeep. I had to have a local driveline shop rebuild both drivelines finally with spicer parts and all was good. Tom was awful to deal with.
ANY reputable driveline shop can build a 1350 CV driveline. Use someone local. Make sure when you don't weld the rear spring perches until you have a driveline and consider leaving a degree of two between pinion and driveline angle to account for the spring wrap under a steady load.
I went round and round with him with his ****ty Chinese "gold seal" joints that were way out of tolerance on my JK drivelines. tons of vibrations, I videod the large amount of visible slop on the joints. Sent them back for warranty. He "checked the balance" and sent them right back. Problem got worse and literally shook parts off of my jeep. I had to have a local driveline shop rebuild both drivelines finally with spicer parts and all was good. Tom was awful to deal with.
ANY reputable driveline shop can build a 1350 CV driveline. Use someone local. Make sure when you don't weld the rear spring perches until you have a driveline and consider leaving a degree of two between pinion and driveline angle to account for the spring wrap under a steady load.
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
4.56 gears will be low on that diesel! I have 35, v10, 5r110 and 4.56 gears and the speed limits here are 55-65mph. And some days I wish I would have tried 4.30. Might want to order up some 37s for that beast. 
Is it a 1350 CV for the front and the rear? Thanks for the tip on not welding the perches on until I have the shaft. I need to look at U-joints instructions on the rear but do you just put it all together and mock it up without welding to get a measurement for the shaft? Then once I get the shaft I can verify I have a few degrees of axle wrap accounted for and weld everything on?
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Yes, 1350CVs front & rear for 6" lifts. The angle of the shaft won't change the length much if at all, get the angle set and then measure at ride height (weight on the springs)
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
2 builds ago so probably 3 years. Lol
He was friendly on the phone but his product was junk. He paid to send it back but didn't replace the ujoints that clearly had a ton of play. I would guess it would be fine if you specific only spicer parts? But after my experience I wouldn't ever bother again. It is JUST a driveline that any driveline shop can do. Use someone local who will actually take care of the issues. IMO. I forget how much I ended up paying to have all ujoints replaced in both drivelines locally but it fixed the problems.
Been a while since I've posted an update. Busted my hump to get my rear axle out. Thought it would take 3-4 hours took a full day and some.
Everything was a fight from e-brake cables and brake lines to shocks and shackle bolts. Got sick of it and the cutoff wheel came out on a few of them.
The next step was to clean up the sterling and finish getting it ready to go in.
Tough to take pictures with the sun but it got the entire por15 treatment. If you haven't used this stuff it works and is tough stuff. Prep is key and it can be a bit of a job to do it all right. I also have the factory spring pads cut off in the pictures.
Everything was a fight from e-brake cables and brake lines to shocks and shackle bolts. Got sick of it and the cutoff wheel came out on a few of them.
The next step was to clean up the sterling and finish getting it ready to go in.
Tough to take pictures with the sun but it got the entire por15 treatment. If you haven't used this stuff it works and is tough stuff. Prep is key and it can be a bit of a job to do it all right. I also have the factory spring pads cut off in the pictures.
I have the underbody cleanup and paint done. Sterling is ready to go in. Gas tank cleaned up, re-assembled and ready to go. Pictures coming. Starting to see the light. I definitely would not underestimate the work and costs if you are thinking of taking this on. If all parts were new and ready to go it's not that bad but all the odds and ends it takes to do it right really start to add up.
Worked on the rear again today. Should be completely done except e-brake cables. I got the lower shock mount placement right a tacked them on. Then the axle came back out for final prep and paint. If you do this project on jack stands like I am it is a lot of hassle moving stands back and forth. For some things you want the weight on the axle and for others you want or need the suspension at full droop. A set of tall heavy duty stands is a must and you'll still want some lumber to gain extra height.
Spring pad and brake line tab ready to por15
Lower shock mount
After por
Gas tank reassembled and ready to go in.
Added a little bling to the front. One of my factory lockouts was cracked.
Also replaced a leaking power steering gear box. I was hoping it would fix itself if I ignored it. I've been watching it drip on the floor for the last month and finally gave in. Might as well get it done now.
Spring pad and brake line tab ready to por15
Lower shock mount
After por
Gas tank reassembled and ready to go in.
Added a little bling to the front. One of my factory lockouts was cracked.
Also replaced a leaking power steering gear box. I was hoping it would fix itself if I ignored it. I've been watching it drip on the floor for the last month and finally gave in. Might as well get it done now.