The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.

[pappawheely]

Starting a new project built from parts I have lying around. I was going to do a powertrain swap and SAS on my 1985 Trooper. I started looking at all the fabrication work needed and what I wanted to upgrade. I came to the conclusion that the only thing I really liked about the Trooper was the body; the way it looks. That's when everything went so wrong. I just happen to have a chassis and drivetrain for a 1979 Chevy Blazer sitting around. Basically all the mechanicals would be sorted out and it has some nice parts to go along. Realistically (or unrealistically) all I would need to do is mate the body to the chassis, figure out the steering and wire it from scratch. No sense using an old wiring harness. The Blazer's wheel base is around 2 inches longer, but if I want to run big tires I would need to stretch it in front anyways. Just think... a 1985 Isuzu Trooper with V8 power, 3/4 ton drivetrain and 37 inch tires. I have a mildly built 350, turbo 400 and 205 transfer case. Front Dana 44 and rear 14 bolt. The 14 bolt was swapped into the Blazer. One big issue I have been dealing with on this project already is getting the rear 6 bolt, hubs to work. I wanted to run Toyota 4 runner wheels but they just aren't going to work. The center bore is too small. I had to pick up some Methods with a 108 center bore and those barely clear the hub and axle bolts. The person who designed the rear hubs did not think things through as it's been a struggle to make this work with 6 bolt wheels. Wish me luck the rest of the way. It's going to be my winter project.

 

[pappawheely]

First on the list is getting this pig cleaned up and readied to go in. Will be putting on an air gap dual plane intake, new electronic ignition and a vintage air front runner serpentine set up. It will also get a new scat flex plate and harmonic balancer up front. It's a fairly stock 355. Mild cam and port matched heads. Going to detail it up nice.





This converter has been sitting around for a while. Those who know, know.

 

[pappawheely]

Changing out all the gaskets so I'm painting everything. Going with sparkly dark gray. I like a clean engine. Did some mods on the valve cover to install the oil fill. Instead of the breathers, I'm going to run hoses over to an oil catch can. Still have to pull the oil pan and replace the rear main seal. I don't have an engine stand so I'll see if I can do it on the dolly. The timing chain looks new. It's a nice double roller. This was a crate engine I got after throwing a rod through the original engine. I'm curious how it will run once it's all together. The exhaust is a set of Thorley Tri-Y headers going two into one and a single chambered muffler.



I went with an Edel-wok dual plane air gap intake. Only issue I had was one hole is way too close to a boss. Had to run out and get a single SHCS to bolt the manifold on. I'll wait until I get it all sealed up before I grind on it to clear a hex head.



Waiting on gaskets so I think I'll get to rebuilding the motor mounts with urethane inserts. I should get some work done before the weather turns too cold. I need to get the 6 lug hubs installed on the 14 bolt so I can move the chassis into the garage.

 

[pappawheely]

I have 3 Troopers. The plan is to take all the good parts and put them together into one, good running truck. The only parts I'm putting on the Blazer chassis is the 85 body. The 85 chassis is a good 4cyl runner. All the good Isuzu parts are going on this:



The third Trooper I have is rough, but it has some useable drivetrain parts. I don't know how the years interchange, but I guess I'll find out.

 

[pappawheely]

This is too good.

 

[pappawheely]

Mounting and plumbing fuel delivery. The Blazer 31 gallon tank is set up for an external pump. The rear feed line goes into a fuel water separator. Then I have a check valve inline and a cheap electric pump bypass. I'm keeping everything tucked up out of the way and the fuel has to get sucked up out of the tank. The small pump is only to prime the main fuel pump mounted on the frame. If the cheap pump goes out I can replace it easily. The main pump is a good carter. That goes through an AEM filter before attaching to the factory hard line. It's a low pressure set up since I'll be running a quadrajet carb. On start up I'll have the cheap pump hooked to a momentary switch that I will hit until the system is primed. Then turn on the main pump and start it.



I might still put an aluminum shield to cover this from rocks and mud.

 

[pappawheely]

Merry Christmas to me! The plastic selector knobs on my 1979 factory hubs are turning into dust so I splurged.

 

[DirtWhiskey]

This is mental. And in the best possible way. Subbed.

 

[pappawheely]

I'm at a crossroads and need everyone's help. I went down a 6 lug rabbit hole to run Toyota wheels, but they don't fit the 14 bolt hubs (despite the manufacturers claim). Do I go 6 lug or 8 lug? What does everyone think?

8 lug Trailready?



Or 6 lug Method?

 

[pappawheely]

No response? Tough crowd.

There was some really foul gas in the tank. I pumped most of it out and then noticed some crud floating in it, so I dropped the tank. Good thing I did. First thing I noticed was all the stuff trapped between the tank and the stuff the factory puts on the frame to prevent rubbing on the frame.







Then I found rust on the tank. That's it, from now on I'm going to drop the tanks on my projects whether needed or not. You never know what will happen after 45 years.



Lucky I caught it when I did. I didn't set out to do a frame off restoration, but since I have a bare frame I should take advantage of it.

 

[pappawheely]

Today I hit the tank with a wire wheel, then primed it and sprayed a good coat of the best paint I know of, STEEL-IT. That should be good for the next 45 years. I ordered some neoprene with a sticky back to replace the tank pads. Next I need to tackle the frame plates for the steering box reinforcement. Hopefully the wind will cooperate so I can weld outside.




I remember way back in my youth when I used to go to the drag races someone saying "Nitro is for racing, gas is for washing parts." I put the old gas I pumped out into a goodwill pot I bought for 3.50. It fit a 14 bolt hub inside. We'll see if that nasty gas can cut some of the grease and old gear oil on that hub.

 

[SDDiver5]

Looks like an awesome project. I'll follow along for sure. I have always wanted to piece parts together from various vehicles to make something awesome.

 

[NevadaLover]

I'm at a crossroads and need everyone's help. I went down a 6 lug rabbit hole to run Toyota wheels, but they don't fit the 14 bolt hubs (despite the manufacturers claim). Do I go 6 lug or 8 lug? What does everyone think?

8 lug Trailready?

View attachment 863222

Or 6 lug Method?

View attachment 863231

If you truly need the strength of an 8 lug axle then by all means go that route, but for what you have posted I think a 6 lug axle setup will work just fine.

 

[pappawheely]

If you truly need the strength of an 8 lug axle then by all means go that route, but for what you have posted I think a 6 lug axle setup will work just fine.

Yes. The chassis already has a 14 bolt in the rear and I have 8 lug hubs for the front Dana 44. I switched the front back to 6 lug, but now I'm having nothing but problems with the expensive, 6 lug 14 bolt hubs. I'm leaning towards 8 lug. I put some 35's and alcoa's on the F350 and like it that way. It free's up my Trailready wheels. Aren't all the cool kids on "tons" now?

 

[NevadaLover]

A little overkill but take the easy route and get it on the road.