calicamper
Expedition Leader
Took me a long time to sell the J80. In the end I didn’t miss it. Get a trail ebike toss it on the back of a 2door convertible. Best fun on and off pavement ?
Tired of Old Junk but no Interest in Newer 4x4s
- Thread starter Ozark_Prowler
- Start date
dllawson819
New member
A GX470 should do the trick! : )
calicamper
Expedition Leader
LOL I was so close to doing that even had an offer on an over priced one. In the end soo glad the dealer tried to pull the most blatant BS and I walked away. Would have only been slightly better than the J80 regarding power and comfort and the same lousy mileage and range ?. The 07 Sequoia was a far better weening vehicle in every way?. Less $ and 1/2 the miles too!
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
My basis for saying that was the observation of the HG condition at ~187k. It hadn't started leaking but it wouldn't have been long before it did. So I'm just suggesting that on the first generation of Toyota iron blocks and alloy heads (22R, 1FZ, 3VZ, etc) they hadn't completely figured out the dynamics. The 3VZ (3.0L) head gasket issues were probably exacerbated due to #5 being a hot spot and it was mostly solved by dialing in the composition of the MLS gaskets to the point that the 5VZ (3.4L), the short block of which was very similar to the 3VZ, didn't have the same extent of problems. Also, not all 3.0L engines went bad and some do now have 300K on the factory HG. The 5VZ and 1GR (4.0L) still had lingering HG issues but it's down to rare. I'm not saying that doing a preventative HG and timing on a 22R-E is absolutely critical. Just that it's not a terribly difficult job for the peace of mind. The only hard part is to do it right requires dropping the oil pan, which is a PITA with IFS if you have it still, and getting it to seal back up is a little bit of concern. On a V6 or V8 I would weigh the risk/benefit of such an aggressive HG approach differently, so I'm thinking specifically 22R. I'm also a zealot about using Toyota Red (silicate-free) coolant, which should have been beneficial to HG life but there was clear evidence that the HG was pretty far along in failing between #3 and #4. I suppose it would be better to say to at least inspect well down in the timing cover when you do your periodic valve lash adjustments and to do leak-down compression tests at the same time.
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bkg
Explorer
??? never dropped a pan for a HG on a 22rx...
IMHO, the biggest PITA is the wire and hose routing that forces the intake to be taken off in pieces...
Ozark_Prowler
Active member
Yea I’ve heard the older pickups are kinda crazy with all the vacuum lines going everywhere.
I’m gonna say most 22re owners were nowhere near as meticulous with maintenance as you are. Most people don’t even know what valves are, much less they need adjusting. Especially nowadays, valve adjustments and “tune-ups” seem really outdated. You don’t hear about stuff like that on the 2tr-fe and 2gr-fe, but none of the “don’t make ‘em like they used to” people seem to mention that. I’m not sure if there’s any newer engines that call for that kind of maintenance.
Ozark_Prowler
Active member
Also I’d be curious to see what the failure rates are for the 3VZ as opposed to the 22re, 5vz, 1fz, etc. I was under the impression the 3.slow was like the older Subaru EJ25s in that HG leaks are all but inevitable. A lot of those Subaru motors tend to leak externally, and people sometimes drive them like that for years.
Of course there’s a similar HG debate on the 1fz over on mud and elsewhere. On that one it seems like luck of the draw whether you’ll have any issues within 300k miles or so. They like to run hot near Cyl 6.
nickw
Adventurer
Agreed with you there! Same things with the old 2f engines....I had one in my 78 FJ40 years ago, awesome robust engine, could in theory go 100k's of miles, but they needed work OFTEN to run properly. Always something to screw with, carb rebuilt, vaccuum line (must be 50 of them) to fix, tune and try to find OEM parts....which was hard enough 10+ years ago and is only getting harder. Aftermarket carbs were available, but deviating to far from stock means harder to get parts for....
95% of Cruisers these days with big miles and lots of PM I wouldn't trust since they have many non OEM parts at this point....good short term, but they are not going to last (IMO) like the original rigs.
The OEM cruisers got their reputation from the OEM builder in Japan...aka Toyota, but backyard mech, working on a 300k J80 with parts from Napa / random online merchant is not the same vehicle as Toyota intended.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Sooper Camper
Adventurer
Funny how that works, isn't it. I've got a couple early 2000's high mileage (near or over 200k) V8's Benzos...love them. They are way simpler to work on than you'd expect, and the common service parts are way cheaper than you'd think, given the overall quality of the vehicle.
Arktikos
Explorer
3VZE obviously had a higher fail rate than normal, hence the "recall"or whatever it was called. I've owned two 22RE trucks. One I purchased with blown HG for cheap. The other I sold for cheap and the new owner blew HG after driving it for 10 years without changing the oil.
Also bought a 3VZE that already had the HG repaired by Toyota. Once repaired correctly with the new gasket they're probably as reliable as any other Toyota engine. BTW, Toyota 3.4's blow headgaskets, so do 4.0's. EJ25's definitely have a bad rep compared to the EJ22 in this regard. Anyway, maintain your cooling system and don't worry about the damn HG IMO.
Ozark_Prowler
Active member
He probably just added oil since those old 22re's leak and burn so much oil it's like a continuous oil change system lol. But yea Toyota seemed to have a hard time nailing down the Iron block/Al head design. IMO you could make a case for the 2gr-fe and 2tr-fe, and I guess the newest 4.0s for being the most reliable they've ever made, since most of the quirks had been worked out by then.3VZE obviously had a higher fail rate than normal, hence the "recall"or whatever it was called. I've owned two 22RE trucks. One I purchased with blown HG for cheap. The other I sold for cheap and the new owner blew HG after driving it for 10 years without changing the oil.
Also bought a 3VZE that already had the HG repaired by Toyota. Once repaired correctly with the new gasket they're probably as reliable as any other Toyota engine. BTW, Toyota 3.4's blow headgaskets, so do 4.0's. EJ25's definitely have a bad rep compared to the EJ22 in this regard. Anyway, maintain your cooling system and don't worry about the damn HG IMO.
direwolf82
Active member
It sounds like you need to give up on off roading.
If you don't want a new one and don't want an old one it's not like you have many more options especially when it sounds like you don't have the money to buy something new that you don't want or pay to have your current rig gone through and rebuilt, you don't want to spend money on fixing anything anymore.
If I was you I'd start fixing up the old truck myself, I pulled the inline 6 out of my old jeep and put a 350 I assembled together out of random parts in the garage and an old dead work truck in it, made a complete new 12v wiring harness, upgrade to power brakes and power steering, replaced all bulbs, stiffened the frame and some other stuff. No real issues since the rebuild and it cost me less than 5 grand.
Your other option is start riding a bus, if you don't like the new truck options and you don't want to pay to maintain what you've got then the only other option really is not drive anything, all vehicles will need maintenance and you generally have to pay whether it's a new vehicle or an older one.
Interesting that you don't want to pay for maintenance on a vehicle but you want to offroad it where everything gets beat up faster and needs repair sooner than a highway car, puts you in a conundrum huh?
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direwolf82
Active member
There is a rav4 for sale on a dealer lot for 100k now.
84 for a real vehicle sounds pretty cheap in comparison.
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direwolf82
Active member
In my experience it's cheaper to keep an older car going. My sister has a shiny new audi she's paying on, she also has a 4 thousand dollar repair bill coming on her few year old reliable car. I have an old 67 jeep that hasn't seriously broken down ever and a 03 Toyota that I've put over a grand into maintenance and repairs in the past year and am planning on spending another grand this month on.
So the oldest rig in the "fleet" is the cheapest to maintain.
But even the Toyota at 2 grand in repair and maintenance over a year is vastly cheaper than a monthly payment and I like to be able to afford the gas to take the trucks out in the woods more than I want to make a monthly payment.
I guess the best thing is to keep the older rig, invest in tools and learning how to do the stuff yourself.
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