UJOR Build Thread
- Thread starter ujoint
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ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Nice van in your sig there!
Picked up the new 7.3 for V3 today. I'm amazed by how clean it is! 100K on the clock, and we'll be making some upgrades to make it even better.
While I was in the yard, I saw this & want to take it home! So much potential. I didn't ask how much, it's better that I don't know......
Picked up the new 7.3 for V3 today. I'm amazed by how clean it is! 100K on the clock, and we'll be making some upgrades to make it even better.
While I was in the yard, I saw this & want to take it home! So much potential. I didn't ask how much, it's better that I don't know......
Wow, how much work was involved in taking the body off?
If you were so inclined, now would be the time to design a body lift kit. Just a couple inches to get the bottom of the rockers level with the frame.
Do you think the steering shaft, brake lines, hoses etc. could reach without any trouble?
If you were so inclined, now would be the time to design a body lift kit. Just a couple inches to get the bottom of the rockers level with the frame.
Do you think the steering shaft, brake lines, hoses etc. could reach without any trouble?
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
I worked on it throughout the day, while I drained all of the fluids. If I didn't have to fight 6 (!!!!) body bolts, I think I could have had it off in 5 or so hrs. What a difference though, took me 2 hours today to pull the engine, tranny & fuel tank today. And easily too.
No body lifts here at UJOR. I don't run or recommend them unless it's for a wheelchair lift. There's too much stress on the mounts since the van body is one piece & so large. if the van frame was completely boxed it would be better.
No body lifts here at UJOR. I don't run or recommend them unless it's for a wheelchair lift. There's too much stress on the mounts since the van body is one piece & so large. if the van frame was completely boxed it would be better.
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Big day for V3. Started by pressure cleaning the frame, then more cleaning by hand & a fresh coat of paint. We swapped the water pump, PS pump, AC compressor, PS box, alternator (realized that the new engine is setup with duals!) and started to disassemble the engine for the new injectors. Still plenty of work left!
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Make sure you clean the IPR screen and change the drain o-rings before lowering the b
Mate after all the trouble I have had with the fuel system on the ambulance I can offer some hard won advice :Wow1:
On the side of the fuel filter bowl is the pressure regulator. This has a screen which can have some contamination and blockage. Check the material. If it looks like o-ring rubber you could be up for a set of o-ring before too long (actually it would be very easy to do the injector o-rings and under cover harness while the top is lifted).
Also on the fuel filter bowl is the water drain valve. This has a habit of leaking through the o-rings. Ford will try to sell you the complete unit but you can use 202 Viton 1/4 ID, 1/2 OD and 1/8 width. Had I thought about it earlier I could of sent a few extras with the 6.0 injector o-rings I finally got around to posting out to you this morning.
UVCH or Under Valve Cover Harness is an issue with these motors. There is a service bulletin and new retainer clip to stop the harness connector coming apart. Do a few searches and make sure yours is OK before you drop the engine in. It is a real PITA working on all of these items when the engine is in the van.
There was also something I read about a steel nut on the injection oil pressure regulator (off the HPOP) that can come loose. Never needed to look at it myself but once again it would be a lot easier with the motor out or the body off.
Have fun.:coffeedrink:
Mate after all the trouble I have had with the fuel system on the ambulance I can offer some hard won advice :Wow1:
On the side of the fuel filter bowl is the pressure regulator. This has a screen which can have some contamination and blockage. Check the material. If it looks like o-ring rubber you could be up for a set of o-ring before too long (actually it would be very easy to do the injector o-rings and under cover harness while the top is lifted).
Also on the fuel filter bowl is the water drain valve. This has a habit of leaking through the o-rings. Ford will try to sell you the complete unit but you can use 202 Viton 1/4 ID, 1/2 OD and 1/8 width. Had I thought about it earlier I could of sent a few extras with the 6.0 injector o-rings I finally got around to posting out to you this morning.
UVCH or Under Valve Cover Harness is an issue with these motors. There is a service bulletin and new retainer clip to stop the harness connector coming apart. Do a few searches and make sure yours is OK before you drop the engine in. It is a real PITA working on all of these items when the engine is in the van.
There was also something I read about a steel nut on the injection oil pressure regulator (off the HPOP) that can come loose. Never needed to look at it myself but once again it would be a lot easier with the motor out or the body off.
Have fun.:coffeedrink:
Last edited:
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
Thanks! We're already changing the valve cover harness along with the injectors. My 7.3 guru & I were going back & forth on whether to change all of the o rings for the fuel & HPOP. This motor is SO clean, has NO signs of anything leaking, we're amazed. So the questions came up..... If it a'int broke......
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Ah the old "Maintenance Induced Failure" quandry
So do we leave it alone because it hasn't caused problems or try to prevent them from happening?????
If it ain't broke don't fix it! (Run to failure)
V
A dollar in time saves 9! (Preventative maintenance)
V
Fix it until its F#@K#d (Over maintenance/ maintenance induced failure).
Used to be a reliability engineer in one of my past careers. I could probably dig out a bunch of models we used to calculate what and when things need to be done but a couple of common sense rules are easier.
Just consider.
Probability of failure, Consequence of failure, Predictability of failure, Potential of Maintenance Induced Failure.
Both the items you are talking about are reasonably easy to diagnose, cheap to fix and while they can disable the vehicle you generally get some warning via leakage, loss of power etc. Also there is not much risk of catastrophic failure (secondary equipment damage).
My thoughts are that if you already have easy access, have the correct parts available and the tools/resources to do the the HPOP and reg I would do them. While they are in good condition they are 10 years old and it will never be as easy or cheap to replace them. Especially if you are pulling the fuel bowl to do the other o-rings/screen at the same time.
All stuff you guys have already considered but gave me a chance to jump on one of my soap boxes, thanks :sombrero:
So do we leave it alone because it hasn't caused problems or try to prevent them from happening?????
If it ain't broke don't fix it! (Run to failure)
V
A dollar in time saves 9! (Preventative maintenance)
V
Fix it until its F#@K#d (Over maintenance/ maintenance induced failure).
Used to be a reliability engineer in one of my past careers. I could probably dig out a bunch of models we used to calculate what and when things need to be done but a couple of common sense rules are easier.
Just consider.
Probability of failure, Consequence of failure, Predictability of failure, Potential of Maintenance Induced Failure.
Both the items you are talking about are reasonably easy to diagnose, cheap to fix and while they can disable the vehicle you generally get some warning via leakage, loss of power etc. Also there is not much risk of catastrophic failure (secondary equipment damage).
My thoughts are that if you already have easy access, have the correct parts available and the tools/resources to do the the HPOP and reg I would do them. While they are in good condition they are 10 years old and it will never be as easy or cheap to replace them. Especially if you are pulling the fuel bowl to do the other o-rings/screen at the same time.
All stuff you guys have already considered but gave me a chance to jump on one of my soap boxes, thanks :sombrero:
TreeTopFlyer
Adventurer
There is an oring on the turbo pedestal that goes south too and will leak. If you need one let me know. I bought in bulk from McMaster Carr and have leftovers.
