UJOR Build Thread

[stormlover]

Epic pic Chris! The white one w/ hood vents to the left of the black one for sale, is that a 6" lift, where the tan and white ones to the left of it are 4" lift? (So the line goes two stock, two 4", one 6", two 8"?)
Any idea on the hood vent size for the white van, whether they're medium or large?(I'm trying to decide for VANdiana). TIA!

Chris's pic makes the vans on the right almost as big as Earth Roamers:Wow1:

As for the vents, I think 11x17 is the size I'm going to go with on my 2005 E350. http://www.hoodlouvers.com/product-category/size-large-hood-louvershood-vents/

 

[ujoint]

Epic pic Chris! The white one w/ hood vents to the left of the black one for sale, is that a 6" lift, where the tan and white ones to the left of it are 4" lift? (So the line goes two stock, two 4", one 6", two 8"?)
Any idea on the hood vent size for the white van, whether they're medium or large?(I'm trying to decide for VANdiana). TIA!

All 3 are 6's but the tan has progressive springs and sits a bit lower. We're going to pick it up a bit while its here. ---- The vents are Med, what we use on all of the vans.

Any word on when you think those shocks might be coming? Gettin close!

Haven't heard, I'll ck Monday. If you don't hear from me shoot me an email.

Chris's pic makes the vans on the right almost as big as Earth Roamers:Wow1:

As for the vents, I think 11x17 is the size I'm going to go with on my 2005 E350. http://www.hoodlouvers.com/product-category/size-large-hood-louvershood-vents/

Thats what they are!

 

[mk216v]

Chris's pic makes the vans on the right almost as big as Earth Roamers:Wow1:

As for the vents, I think 11x17 is the size I'm going to go with on my 2005 E350. http://www.hoodlouvers.com/product-category/size-large-hood-louvershood-vents/

Getting there.

I'm headed that same direction(Large 11x17, Hi-Flow), but will be going with white in case of rock chips, then painted to match factory Oxford White, but in the new smooth border look; http://www.hoodlouvers.com/shop/large-hi-flow-smooth-border-powder-coated-white/

 

[mk216v]

All 3 are 6's but the tan has progressive springs and sits a bit lower. We're going to pick it up a bit while its here. ---- The vents are Med, what we use on all of the vans.

And you're not using progressive's much anymore? IIRC VANdiana has linears?

PS--interesting mesh on Viva's front bumper in front of headlights. Must be used to trap crickets for dinner on the road.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

All 3 are 6's but the tan has progressive springs and sits a bit lower.

Other than the lower ride height how do the progressive springs ride? Is the customer changing them out simply because it's to low? bad ride? sag?

 

[volcomsurfer]

Had a photographer come by today for an upcoming magazine article so we lined up the rigs that are mobile. Great variety of E series!

Sweet! That for sale sign is definitely going to help get some exposure.

 

[ujoint]

And you're not using progressive's much anymore? IIRC VANdiana has linears?

PS--interesting mesh on Viva's front bumper in front of headlights. Must be used to trap crickets for dinner on the road.

I like to use them on 5.4's and some V10's ut it depends on the rig. We ride the load/ride line so tight that sometimes they sit lower than the normal 6" springs.

Other than the lower ride height how do the progressive springs ride? Is the customer changing them out simply because it's to low? bad ride? sag?

They do well but this one is sitting a bit lower than the rear and he wants it higher.

 

[ujoint]

Sweet! That for sale sign is definitely going to help get some exposure.

Hopefully that van is long gone by the time the magazine is out! I'm surprised it hasn't sold, such a great deal. Not everyone wants a van that big.

 

[CaliDreman]

Yes, it will work. But unless you are going to do the rebuild yourself I would just buy a drop-in replacement. Labor is $600 or so to completely clean it and another $200 for rebuild parts. If you are going to do that I would install a 360 thrust bearing rebuild kit and a billet compressor wheel. The former will increase oil flow and the latter will lower your EGTs a bit and help with faster spool up. As for upgrades, it's not really worth going to a bigger turbo unless you've done some other mods like bigger injectors. Just buy something close to stock unless you are looking for more top end. Either way, while your in there install the upgraded turbo drain and feed lines and also pick up a new VGT Turbo Control Solenoid Pigtail Harness. The fittings will invariably break when you go to pull the turbo. Here's a good link on reconditioning your existing turbo. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles.html/_/dtsarticles/turbocharger-reconditioning-r17

As for upgrades don't buy a powermax unless you are planning to put in a billet compressor wheel. While the garret powermax was considered the king of the 6.0 turbo upgrade options in the late 2000s there are much better options on the market today. If I was going to upgrade my turbo on my 6.0 today I would buy the stage 1.5 KCturbo either directly or from http://www.wpediesel.com/index.php/turbos/complete-turbos/kc-stage-1-5-turbo.html

Thanks for the information....very helpful. Although, I already have a garret turbo heading my way I'll get that compressor wheel. Either way I'm very much looking forward to having my power back!
Thanks again!!

 

[stormlover]

Thanks for the information....very helpful. Although, I already have a garret turbo heading my way I'll get that compressor wheel. Either way I'm very much looking forward to having my power back!
Thanks again!!

No worries, and it wasn't my intent to bag on the powermax. But you may experience some turbo lag. If you don't already have one, consider an SCT tuner and getting a custom tune for it. KCturbo has a billet wheel as well as Riffraff and Dieselsite. I'm really like the one in mine. Single plane and faster spool up and lower EGTs. Quite noticeable over the stock turbo.

 

[tgreening]

Hey Chris, on these Ambo conversions what do you end up doing about the rear drive shaft? I don't know what's standard but mine appears to be about 4"-5" in diameter and made out of aluminum. Have you been chopping these or starting from scratch?

 

[ujoint]

Hey Chris, on these Ambo conversions what do you end up doing about the rear drive shaft? I don't know what's standard but mine appears to be about 4"-5" in diameter and made out of aluminum. Have you been chopping these or starting from scratch?

You'll have to start from scratch. For your 6" lift you'll want a 1350CV @ the t-case.

 

[tgreening]

You'll have to start from scratch. For your 6" lift you'll want a 1350CV @ the t-case.

You sourcing local or using somebody like Tom Woods? Open to suggestions basically. Which reminds me. Normally for a DC shaft you want the rear axle pinion pointed right at the output, in this case of the xfer case. Do the rear springs in your kit handle this, or should I plan on a degree wedge back there?

 

[151fab]

You sourcing local or using somebody like Tom Woods? Open to suggestions basically. Which reminds me. Normally for a DC shaft you want the rear axle pinion pointed right at the output, in this case of the xfer case. Do the rear springs in your kit handle this, or should I plan on a degree wedge back there?

Reg the pinion angle:
Chris supplies new spring perches. You cut the old ones off and used the supplied ones. Once you orient the pinion according to his instructions (exactly what you just discribed but on glossy paper) you then weld the supplied perches in place.

Reg the driveshaft:
My understanding (via Chris' glossy print, again) is that it's locals only.
I can recommend plenty of shops in S. California that do great work ("Baja" qualified if desired), if your out this way.

 

[tgreening]

Reg the pinion angle:
Chris supplies new spring perches. You cut the old ones off and used the supplied ones. Once you orient the pinion according to his instructions (exactly what you just discribed but on glossy paper) you then weld the supplied perches in place.

Reg the driveshaft:
My understanding (via Chris' glossy print, again) is that it's locals only.
I can recommend plenty of shops in S. California that do great work ("Baja" qualified if desired), if your out this way.

I could (and have) done that in the past but since I'm reusing the existing axle I don't have a whole lot of interest in yanking it out and going through that. My guess is I'll throw some degree wedges in there and call it a day.

I'm in Ohio and don't know of any "name" producers of drive shafts around here. There is a place right across the street from my business but everything they do appears to be constructed out of gold plated gold, so I don't think I'll be using them. I've never used Tom Woods but he's been highly regarded in the Jeep community for just about as long as I've owned one, so unless Chris has a highly regarded go-to source, that's probably where I'll end up.