Willman's '85 FJ60 Land Cruiser

[lostworldexpedition]

:lurk: This is a tasty thread.... subscribed. Keep 'em coming Nic.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Congrats Nic..

Here is mine as well with about a 4" lift and 33's.. If it were not for 60 series I would not be here today. Sealed the deal for me on land cruisers and being into cars & trucks in general...

 

[Willman]

Thanks guys for the nice words

Congrats Nic..

Here is mine as well with about a 4" lift and 33's.. If it were not for 60 series I would not be here today. Sealed the deal for me on land cruisers and being into cars & trucks in general...

Ya buddy! Nice 60! We need get together sometime and kick tires!



Just sourcing my manuals and getting everything ready for a top end job. Can't wait to get her back 100% so i can really enjoy her. I'm planning on taking her back to my mechanic to make sure it is truly the head before i jump the gun here. If it is what i think it is..... i'm going to cleanout the garage for some wrenching time!


To do list:
-Manuals
-Find true problem
-get funding
-go to work!

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Will do.. I have the Toyota truck & chassis manual that I hardly use these days that you could certainly borrow or long term borrow... I had the engine manual but when I sold it I included it with the truck...

 

[Willman]

Will do.. I have the Toyota truck & chassis manual that I hardly use these days that you could certainly borrow or long term borrow... I had the engine manual but when I sold it I included it with the truck...

Might have to take ya up on that one!

 

[Willman]

Update

I did the test last week to find out that i do have a bunt valve.

The 60 has been parked in the garage waiting a head replacement. I plan on starting the demo this week. Hope to have the head to the machine shop next week depending on how much time i get to play...

This makes a guy think:

I agree! Taking the vacuum lines off the truck was the best thing i could have ever done. Now to fill all that empty space....:sombrero:

Any thoughts?



Also....called Toyota to see if all the recalls on my 60 have been taken care of....The gas tank and seat belts have been fix back in '94.

Well......Wish me luck on the head job.....This would be my first head swap..

 

[ntsqd]

Any thoughts?

Yeah, don't do a Holley 5200 like that. Keep the stock carb and air filter assembly.

 

[Willman]

Yeah, don't do a Holley 5200 like that. Keep the stock carb and air filter assembly.

That is what a lot of people have been saying....

What is up with that setup that doesn't work? Why don't people like it?

Seems it would get rid of a lot of smog gear plus having a newer carb. that can be easily turned...

 

[Pskhaat]

...swap looks to be more over my head then i want to take on. Sure i could do...Long story short. I love my wife/kids/marriage and just want to keep things simple.

Word.

 

[Pskhaat]

You guys got me thinking about looking into doing the 3FE conversion......But the fix is just temporary until the SB 327 goes in.

No no no no no no no no no no no!!

Let's not talk about swaps unless it is Toyota.

 

[ProwlerDriver]

Yeah, don't do a Holley 5200 like that. Keep the stock carb and air filter assembly.

That pic above is my engine bay. Its not a holley 5200 but a weber 38/38. The air cleaner is some billet one from lc customs. No worries though.

Ill tell you what, i had a jimc rebuilt carb before this and I wouldnt go back for the world. The engine bay is super simple now. If im on a trip in the backcountry i dont have to worry if vacuum line #346 or any of the 50 vacuum valves are jacked up causing my rig to run like crap, and me trying to figure out where and why. All i do is look at the one vacuum line i have in the engine. I live in western Washington, so i frequently go from sea level to 5-6k feet. You'll hear crazy stories when people go weber/headers but honestly Gas mileage hasnt changed, and i havent noticed any significant increase in power, even with no cat and headers. But, there is surely no loss in power, the thing starts like its fuel injected even when cold, and i know whats going on under the hood at all times

Toyota reliability is often cited for not going to the weber setup but seriously, how reliable is all that 25 year old vacuum crap? You can desmog a toyota one, just send it to JimC wait 2 months and read 36 pages on mud of how to kind of do it, pretty simple... The weber you plug in a vaccuum advance, a fuel line, hook up the electric choke to a switched 12 volt, tune it and your done. Weber isnt exactly a small name in carbs either, the thing has mechanical parts that hook up to the stock linkage, I cant see whats not reliable about it.

Im not putting down anyones setup or anything like that, Just the uber simpleness of the engine bay, in my opinion, is more reliable than a complicated one, especially when the same results are achieved.

Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[ProwlerDriver]

oh yeah and that air cleaner is just as large as the stock one!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

oh yeah and that air cleaner is just as large as the stock one!

I think the issue is the fact it is an open element which many including myself don't like running. The dirty fast and they can't be sealed against water entry.

My take on Weber's... when they run, they run great. When you have issues with them, nobody wants to touch them, parts are hard to find and you'll spend trying to dial it in. I'm a true believer in the Aisin carb, I've got one on my early FJ60 engine and also have a single vacuum line. JimC build me a desmog'd carb with nothing more than vac. advance. That was 9 years ago now and couldn't be happier. However there are plenty of happy Weber owners out there, many of them locally here that I see on a regular basis, can't argue with their results.

 

[ntsqd]

My apologies, in the picture it first looked to me to be a 5200. eewwwwww....... Second, more diligent viewing shows it not to be a 5200.

I run a 32/34 DGV progressive on my air cooler. Same basic carb as those used on these engines. There is an art to dialing them in, but there is a step by step procedure that has worked for me every time that I've changed the engine combo under it. About the only thing that you can't easily recover from is if someone has monkeyed with the emulsion tubes. Do keep an eye on fuel pressure, they do not like more than 4 psi.

That said, unless you're willing and able to work on the Weber my observation has been that the Aisin, when properly rebuilt & de-smogged, is a really hard carb to beat.

As to the air filter, from experience with them I don't like open elements and I don't like oiled cotton filters. And since that is an incendiary topic that is all that I'll say.

For future V8 carbs I'd strongly suggest a Q-Jet should the V-ate transplant come to be. Find a copy of the Brad Urban book on those carbs. It is the bible from what friend with Q-Jets on the brain says. I'd really suggest an OE EFI, but I understand not wanting it too.

And, FWIW, there is a GREAT enclosed air filter for a V-ate. Find the one off a 1 ton GM Dually. If you can go for the single stud TBI version as the snorkel is quite large. There is a two stud version that can be modified if necessary. The bases are the same, it's the top that differs. Now THAT is an air filter!

 

[Willman]

That pic above is my engine bay. Its not a holley 5200 but a weber 38/38. The air cleaner is some billet one from lc customs. No worries though.

Ill tell you what, i had a jimc rebuilt carb before this and I wouldnt go back for the world. The engine bay is super simple now. If im on a trip in the backcountry i dont have to worry if vacuum line #346 or any of the 50 vacuum valves are jacked up causing my rig to run like crap, and me trying to figure out where and why. All i do is look at the one vacuum line i have in the engine. I live in western Washington, so i frequently go from sea level to 5-6k feet. You'll hear crazy stories when people go weber/headers but honestly Gas mileage hasnt changed, and i havent noticed any significant increase in power, even with no cat and headers. But, there is surely no loss in power, the thing starts like its fuel injected even when cold, and i know whats going on under the hood at all times

Toyota reliability is often cited for not going to the weber setup but seriously, how reliable is all that 25 year old vacuum crap? You can desmog a toyota one, just send it to JimC wait 2 months and read 36 pages on mud of how to kind of do it, pretty simple... The weber you plug in a vaccuum advance, a fuel line, hook up the electric choke to a switched 12 volt, tune it and your done. Weber isnt exactly a small name in carbs either, the thing has mechanical parts that hook up to the stock linkage, I cant see whats not reliable about it.

Im not putting down anyones setup or anything like that, Just the uber simpleness of the engine bay, in my opinion, is more reliable than a complicated one, especially when the same results are achieved.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Thanks for your information on your setup!

I think the issue is the fact it is an open element which many including myself don't like running. The dirty fast and they can't be sealed against water entry.

My take on Weber's... when they run, they run great. When you have issues with them, nobody wants to touch them, parts are hard to find and you'll spend trying to dial it in. I'm a true believer in the Aisin carb, I've got one on my early FJ60 engine and also have a single vacuum line. JimC build me a desmog'd carb with nothing more than vac. advance. That was 9 years ago now and couldn't be happier. However there are plenty of happy Weber owners out there, many of them locally here that I see on a regular basis, can't argue with their results.

I didn't think about water and dust issues with the open element like that. Thanks Kurt for bring that up!

My apologies, in the picture it first looked to me to be a 5200. eewwwwww....... Second, more diligent viewing shows it not to be a 5200.

I run a 32/34 DGV progressive on my air cooler. Same basic carb as those used on these engines. There is an art to dialing them in, but there is a step by step procedure that has worked for me every time that I've changed the engine combo under it. About the only thing that you can't easily recover from is if someone has monkeyed with the emulsion tubes. Do keep an eye on fuel pressure, they do not like more than 4 psi.

That said, unless you're willing and able to work on the Weber my observation has been that the Aisin, when properly rebuilt & de-smogged, is a really hard carb to beat.

As to the air filter, from experience with them I don't like open elements and I don't like oiled cotton filters. And since that is an incendiary topic that is all that I'll say.

For future V8 carbs I'd strongly suggest a Q-Jet should the V-ate transplant come to be. Find a copy of the Brad Urban book on those carbs. It is the bible from what friend with Q-Jets on the brain says. I'd really suggest an OE EFI, but I understand not wanting it too.

And, FWIW, there is a GREAT enclosed air filter for a V-ate. Find the one off a 1 ton GM Dually. If you can go for the single stud TBI version as the snorkel is quite large. There is a two stud version that can be modified if necessary. The bases are the same, it's the top that differs. Now THAT is an air filter!

All of you have been a great help here. Thanks!


What will mostly happen....keep the Aisin carb and get her desmogged.