Willman's '85 FJ60 Land Cruiser

[Willman]

No no no no no no no no no no no!!

Let's not talk about swaps unless it is Toyota.

Your funny Scott! A Toyota V8 would be sweet!

When are you moving?

Still waiting for that call....

:ylsmoke:

 

[Pskhaat]

I think Utah's out Colorado may be back in...who knows at this point. Life very busy...

 

[jleeFJ62]

Another option besides JimC

Trollhole's carbs
http://forum.ih8mud.com/trollholes-cruisers/306614-new-2f-carbs.html

I have a 3fe so i'm not very fimiliar with carbs, but Marshall lives a few miles away and is a stand up guy.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Nic good luck with the head job. It is not too difficult, just a little heavy when you get it out. Clegg Machine is wonderful down on Center street in Orem. It is where I do any machine work I need to have done. Kevin is a great guy (Kevin Clegg) you can tell him I sent you if you want..

Excited to see it running. . Jim C does do a good job but I have also heard that he generally jets rich as well...

Those Trollhose carbs look pretty good. You will easily be at that price with a rebuild... Aisin or imitation Aisin I think is the way to go. I used Weber and never liked them. You can get good power out of the 38/38s but they also run rich and you generally get poor mileage...

 

[Willman]

I think Utah's out Colorado may be back in...who knows at this point. Life very busy...

All that free/trade fab.....Can't believe Utah is out of the running!

Another option besides JimC

Trollhole's carbs
http://forum.ih8mud.com/trollholes-cruisers/306614-new-2f-carbs.html

I have a 3fe so i'm not very fimiliar with carbs, but Marshall lives a few miles away and is a stand up guy.

Thanks for the link!

Nic good luck with the head job. It is not too difficult, just a little heavy when you get it out. Clegg Machine is wonderful down on Center street in Orem. It is where I do any machine work I need to have done. Kevin is a great guy (Kevin Clegg) you can tell him I sent you if you want..

Excited to see it running. . Jim C does do a good job but I have also heard that he generally jets rich as well...

Those Trollhose carbs look pretty good. You will easily be at that price with a rebuild... Aisin or imitation Aisin I think is the way to go. I used Weber and never liked them. You can get good power out of the 38/38s but they also run rich and you generally get poor mileage...

Right on!

I have already talked with Clegg. Sound like great people to deal with. Everyone that i talk with says Clegg is a great shop around here. I'm glad they have your blessing. That means a lot!

Still kicking the carb. thing around. Rebuild kit sounds like another way to go.



Well tonight is a big night....Demo is planned on the head! I hope to get a lot done on her tonight. I did buy some tags to help make the installation process a little better when i go to put her back.

This thread already has 8 pages....Time to get to work (pictures too)!

:snorkel:

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

8 pages in Expo page length.. User CP > Options ; only 3 pages for me

Clegg is great and everything I've done with them has turned out great. This summer I sent them a head on my Powerstroke that had been through a fire.. And they did a hell of a job cleaning it up... There is another good machine shop right up the road but I was constantly being fee'd to death...

Good luck again Nic and enjoy it.. Even the old 2F, there is something just wonderful and methodical and simple about it. The last of a breed.. I think you will enjoy it. A head job on a 3FE is literally twice as long with all of the crap on there. What I would do is get the new carb and desmog it as well. On that era the smog refs won't notice the cosmetic differences (and then you won't have to waste all of that time with the hose routing) and as long as it passes it is fine... This is the route I would take. The desmogged 2Fs run great and are very simple and can pass smog just fine as well with a decent tuning.

 

[Willman]

Well....it going!

I went to drain the radiator and broke off the plug....In the end i had to pull the radiator so i come get the plug out.....I ended up cutting a hole in the bottom hose drain the fluid. I'm going to send the radiator out to get re-cond/dipped.

Got all the vac/smog lines out of the way to get to the head. I used file folder stickers to mark all the connections. This should make the install go pretty quickly on the new head.

My lab puppy along for the ride.. She keep stealing all my tools and hides...

Old shoot.....The labels work great!

Pile of parts

Next time in the garage...Should get pretty close on finishing all the demo!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Coming along nicely! Sorry I missed your call, I was a couple thousand feet underground in the Ohir Hill Mine Post a picture of your intake/exhaust manifold setup and I'll show you those spots to tack before having it milled.

 

[Fergie]

Old shoot.....The labels work great!

Jeebus! I thought my 3FE had a ton of emissions stuff on it...this one takes the cake.

Dunno about Cruisers, but spending a bit of time to pull the hodo off makes installing(removing) the head that much easier. Thsoe suckers are heavy enough as it is, might as well make it easier.

GL with the rest of the work.

 

[Willman]

......Post a picture of your intake/exhaust manifold setup and I'll show you those spots to tack before having it milled.

No worries Kurt!

Here you go:

Thanks!

 

[Pskhaat]

I thought my 3FE had a ton of emissions stuff on it...this one takes the cake.

FWIW, on an old highly-CA-emission'd 2F of mine I pulled the emissions equip as the 2F was coming out. I had an old IM240 free retest and the results on CO, HC & NOx were much lower than if it had all the emissions on it.

I attribute this in part to the EGR for which IMHO was an after-thought to the 2F design lowering combustion temperatures at high altitude which kept combustion temps a little too low? Playing around with the AI system too I'm skeptical of the energy required to turn the air pump (not much I know) really helps in terms of total emissions per gallon burned, it seemed like a way to dilute the exhaust with fresh air rather than controlling post-burn.

Do you live in an tailpipe-emissions-controlled area?

 

[Willman]

FWIW, on an old highly-CA-emission'd 2F of mine I pulled the emissions equip as the 2F was coming out. I had an old IM240 free retest and the results on CO, HC & NOx were much lower than if it had all the emissions on it.

I attribute this in part to the EGR for which IMHO was an after-thought to the 2F design lowering combustion temperatures at high altitude which kept combustion temps a little too low? Playing around with the AI system too I'm skeptical of the energy required to turn the air pump (not much I know) really helps in terms of total emissions per gallon burned, rather it seemed like a way rather to dilute the exhaust with fresh air rather than controlling post-burn.

Do you live in an tailpipe-emissions-controlled area?

Great infor. Scott.

I don't have to mess with the emission on this rig to keep her plates up to date.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Seriously Nic one thing you may want to do is the desmog when you are there. It really goes a long way (but takes some effort to do right - like ordering a new carb). That engine goes from complex to quite simple and it runs just as well. Most of my FJ60s never quite ran well usually because smog equipment was clogged somewhere, simple old oily gook... Just my $.02 but if it works it works..

Good luck again. I wish I had that engine manual for you... I have the chassis manual lying around, I actually broke it out just the other day for the frist time in eons for some torque specs I needed and had forgotten...

 

[Willman]

Seriously Nic one thing you may want to do is the desmog when you are there. It really goes a long way (but takes some effort to do right - like ordering a new carb). That engine goes from complex to quite simple and it runs just as well. Most of my FJ60s never quite ran well usually because smog equipment was clogged somewhere, simple old oily gook... Just my $.02 but if it works it works..

Good luck again. I wish I had that engine manual for you... I have the chassis manual lying around, I actually broke it out just the other day for the frist time in eons for some torque specs I needed and had forgotten...

Might have to buy you dinner for some desmog help if your ever in Orem.

I'm down with the desmog......MUD is some what confusing.....I need to do more research on that.

Lately my time on the net has been spent researching on steering boxes. I got a leaker!

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

The noise might be OK for me, but the shakin like a dawg sh___n peach seeds I can do without.

Sorry I have to call you out on that. The 4BTs get a lot of reputation for 'vibration' but I've never seen one that actually had any issues with vibration.. The non-liquid mount is a standard Dodge 302 motor mount (simple rubber $8 mount) and even in this situation there are no issues with vibration...

I didn't mind the noise at all. The only thing is people could hear me everywhere I went. Sometimes on the trail for long long days the noise would bother me a hair but as soon as you get on the highway the purr is just wonderful and totally 100% tolerable. It sounds like any UPS or Fedex or other delivery truck driving around for reference. If you can handle that noise you can handle the 4BT... They are literally a wonderful engine, brilliantly simple, extremely rugged, jobs and jobs of power (v10 power at idle, small V8 on the highway) as their stock setup. Tons more with simple turn of some screws... It is the ultimate expedition engine... Bulletproof, stone reliable, 186K miles (the one I have) not even broken in, perfect compression. On my truck with it, I have rebuilt or have had everything rebuilt (transmissions etc) it will be a brand new vehicle when its done. Except for the Cummins engine with 186K miles.. Why bother rebuilding it when I know it will get another 100K miles without a single issue. I did have the head checked and all new gaskets/belts/alternator etc freshened up though..