Willman's '85 FJ60 Land Cruiser

[ntsqd]

Shaking going down the road or shaking at idle? My DD is a 1.6L 4 cyl diesel Rabbit. At idle it shakes bad, going down the road the vibration isn't nearly as noticeable. There is no way that a non-counter balanced 4.0L 4 cyl diesel (they aren't, are they?) is going to shake less at idle and I would expect it to shake a lot more to a whole lot more.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

They shake but that is what isolators are for. I used rubber last time and it did not vibrate badly at all. It was never uncomfortable or a concern and I never had a single complaint about it from a passenger, if it helps, even at extended idle times (like any diesel, I would leave it idling all the time).

 

[cruiseroutfit]

This is where the exhaust manifold seperates. Cylinders 1 & 6 exit through their own 'elbow' that sleeves into the socket on the main manifold body. If you don't have it referenced into place they would have a difficult time plaining the manifold, hence the tack weld.



This might make it clearer:

 

[Willman]

This is where the exhaust manifold seperates. Cylinders 1 & 6 exit through their own 'elbow' that sleeves into the socket on the main manifold body. If you don't have it referenced into place they would have a difficult time plaining the manifold, hence the tack weld.

View attachment 38283

This might make it clearer:

View attachment 38284

Question....So one tack weld both sides to keep the manifold together will do the trick? I summing after the machining, grind out the tack or just leave it?

After looking at this further....(What do you think?)...Taking a little piece of scrap iron to bridge the two instead of putting a tick weld right in the grove. Cleanup might be easier...

Boy am i glad i called!

Thanks Kurt!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Question....So one tack weld both sides to keep the manifold together will do the trick? I summing after the machining, grind out the tack or just leave it?

After looking at this further....(What do you think?)...Taking a little piece of scrap iron to bridge the two instead of putting a tick weld right in the grove. Cleanup might be easier...

Boy am i glad i called!

Thanks Kurt!

We would just put a single tack weld across the gap while the manifold was still bolted to the motor. Then after machining we would simply use a cut-off blade and cut the weld out of the joint. You could bridge it but I think that would over complicate the matter?

 

[Willman]

We would just put a single tack weld across the gap while the manifold was still bolted to the motor. Then after machining we would simply use a cut-off blade and cut the weld out of the joint. You could bridge it but I think that would over complicate the matter?

Your right....

Thanks!

 

[Pskhaat]

Are not there earlier 1-piece exhaust manifolds that could be had for a song? (through 1978?)

From SOR:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Are not there earlier 1-piece exhaust manifolds that could be had for a song? (through 1978?)

From SOR:

Sure, but the only big downside of the 3 piece is during any machining. Once they are on the motor and sealed, they seem to stay sealed longer. I'd suspect that is why Toyota added the joints in the later years, allowed for a little movement. Its not all that common for any leaks at the joint in my experience.

I guess if you had both available I'd consider it... but if you already have an existing manifold, I'd run it.

 

[Pskhaat]

Applicable to me because I have a 2F with headers. I've never quite liked headers and can't actually say why. Don't have a lick of dyno metrics, but totally anecdotal and off-the-cuff, it seems to be the exhaust headers allow for a touch little more higher-end power at the expense of lower-RPM torque.

Additionally, it's nice to have the pre-heat of the intake mixture from the manifolds...not worth putting headers on unless there's an issue along the way I guess.

 

[Willman]

Update: Head's off!

Well....Made some good progress this week! Got the manifold all tack in-place, and got the manifold off. What a task that was.....The bolt on the fire wall side was a pain in the $%& to get off!

On with the pictures!

Everything looked good inside the block. Nothing to worry about here....Just need to do some cleaning!

The problem.......

Things To do:

• Drill out & tap the galley plug on head. Don't want any oil leaking there....
• Clean block
• Drop off head to the machine shop
• Keep studying the desmog diagrams and do it.....
• Tool up (get ready for install, torque wrench, etc..)

Anything i might be missing or a good mod to do while the head is off?




Well....Today was a good day!

:ylsmoke:

 

[p1michaud]

Nice aquisition! :wings:

 

[Willman]

Thanks P!

I need to update this thread bad....

Lots more shots to post of the head rebuild/desmog

Until then.....

 

[Willman]

Got a lot done here in the past 3 weeks. The cost on the head was $420 with OEM gaskets from Clegg. All new exhaust valves and seats...

#3 looks new again!

Everything cleaned are ready for install

Got the head painted up.....

Yesterday was a busy one! My cousin came over.....Got the head and manifold on and started the desmog.

The top of the block all cleaned up. Carb. cleaner and a good razor blade got her all cleaned up. I figure if you can use a razor blade on a window....It should be fine here as well.

Manifold with the EGR cooler plate in place. Used 1/4" plate.

 

[Willman]

More....

The head is on!

Lots more to do with the desmog......

A big thanks to my cousin for his help!

On another note....I picked up some new 33x10.5 AT for $275 off TTORA that will good with my future OME lift....

 

[flyingwil]

Looking good amigo!