Yeti and the Marshmallow

[Basement Yeti]

Hey Nick, I have a question. You remember these bolt holes where my bulkhead is/used to be?


What if I used them to secure the sub-floor I plan to build my actual floor on to keep it from shifting?

The problem is the collars in the holes to hold the bolts. The plan for that was for the plywood sub floor to sit on top of the slatting on the floor, those collars stick up above that. What if I cut the collars off and used bigger bolts and nuts to hold the sub floor down in that area with some RV caulking/butyl tape?

I could also add a few screws at the sliding door and rear door.

378 replies and you Mr Beast get the Gold star for keeping things on track.

Haha, I know my build is moving slower than molasses but I'm really trying to do it right! =P Mr Beast and all the guys who helped are wicked dudes. I'd be up poop creek in a lot of aspects without their help.

 

[T.Low]

You need to check out this van: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=626915&postcount=393

Kevin had a way of keeping things simple yet very effective with his GhettoBago(Cheap Winnebago) He was able to mod his Astro quick and painless and it served well for his adVantures.

Check this out for auxillarybattery: http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Battery-Box/Drop-Out-Battery-Box.htm

 

[MrBeast]

Hey Nick, I have a question. You remember these bolt holes where my bulkhead is/used to be?


What if I used them to secure the sub-floor I plan to build my actual floor on to keep it from shifting?

The problem is the collars in the holes to hold the bolts. The plan for that was for the plywood sub floor to sit on top of the slatting on the floor, those collars stick up above that. What if I cut the collars off and used bigger bolts and nuts to hold the sub floor down in that area with some RV caulking/butyl tape?

I could also add a few screws at the sliding door and rear door.



Haha, I know my build is moving slower than molasses but I'm really trying to do it right! =P Mr Beast and all the guys who helped are wicked dudes. I'd be up poop creek in a lot of aspects without their help.

I would use carrage bolts, and that would work just fine, this way all you have above the sub floor is the button head.

You will still want some type of rubber mat material between the wood and subfloor though to keep it from squeaking.

 

[MrBeast]

Kevin had a way of keeping things simple yet very effective with his GhettoBago(Cheap Winnebago) He was able to mod his Astro quick and painless and it served well for his adVantures.

Check this out for auxillarybattery: http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Battery-Box/Drop-Out-Battery-Box.htm

That looks like a damn good idea except one thing, id be worried about it becoming packed with mud.

 

[Basement Yeti]

Today I insulated and applied vapor barrier to the front roof. The in itself went pretty smoothly but putting the headliner on was a beast and a half.

Denim is always in style.


So is plastic. >:]


The most epic spray of them all.


I put these little tabs in but the extra width of the insulation tore them out and marred the headliner.



I need to figure out what I can do to secure the headliner to the rib in those two spots and cover the ungodly holes.

I couldn't get the dome light housing back in because of the extra crap above the headliner. I need longer screws or something to mount it back in place.


I also need to fix the vapor barrier where I marred it with the drill.

I seem to have forgotten to take a picture of it all put together again because I was too busy un gluing my head from the van. No seriously, I glued my head to the van.

 

[MrBeast]

Um make a note, gluing your head to the van is bad MMM-Kay!:sombrero:

 

[Basement Yeti]

Yeah but that glue is AWESOME.

Those plastic pins just kind of wedge into 1/4" holes in the ribs but they were too short and the pressure/width of space above the headliner was too much and they tore out.

Do you have any idea what kind of bolts I could use that might work?

I can use the top parts of the destroyed plastic caps to cover the bolts too.

Here is the somewhat completed install.

 

[MrBeast]

Yeah but that glue is AWESOME.

Those plastic pins just kind of wedge into 1/4" holes in the ribs but they were too short and the pressure/width of space above the headliner was too much and they tore out.

Do you have any idea what kind of bolts I could use that might work?

I can use the top parts of the destroyed plastic caps to cover the bolts too.

Here is the somewhat completed install.

I am not sure on that one, I have never delt with it.

 

[Basement Yeti]

Okay. have to go to the store for a paint scraper, some more paint, and some longer screws. So I'll poke around there and see what I can find.

The van is actually quieter with that insulation in there, it's crazy. I can't imagine how quiet it's going to be when the whole thing is done.

 

[Basement Yeti]

I was rifling around in my spare screws and bolts (Lord knows I lost mine a long time ago) and I found some gnarly 2" screws, they work perfectly to secure the dome light housing. So that is back in place.

Further more I was looking at the holes where the driver side bulkhead goes and it lines up PERFECTLY with the edge of my trimmed headliner. I didn't do this on purpose I intended for the headliner to stop right before the bulkhead.

There is more pressure on the driver side of the headliner for some reason which is why that plastic rivet thing came out, on the passenger side it is staying in place just fine.

With my bulkhead holding the headliner in place on the driver side, and my new fangled super screws taking some pressure off the center, and the plastic rivet on the passenger side, the headliner is super secure.

Yay, problem solved.:wings:

Tomorrow I get to play DMV hell. Then I can move ahead with insulating the rest of the roof.

I love it when things work out!

 

[Basement Yeti]

My interior dome lights and switched light don't work. I made very certain when I was messing about with the installation the wires were out of the way of potential screws and drills and such.

Thinking back after I had my speakers and stereo installed I was at Whole Foods and hit the dome override light and my lights didn't come on.

I am going to check for a blown fuse, once I figure how. Hopefully one of the installers just caused a short or something.

I've got an appointment for a smog test Thursday, I have my title and pink slip in hand, and proof of insurance. Plus the registration form all filled out. All I need is my smog certification and I can go get my VIN verified at the DMV and complete the registration.

 

[kjp1969]

May I humbly suggest that you go out and sleep in this thing?!?! You live in San Diego? Go to William Heiss State Park near Julian. It's beautiful, there is never anyone there, it's a nice drive, it's close, cheap, there's a nice bathroom with a shower, and its about 5 miles from the town of Julian, in case you bring your apple pie bib.

I want to see a camping picture before I read another word about paint, glue or the dome light!!!!!! Consider the gauntlet thrown, Yeti!

 

[Basement Yeti]

I don't get it, why do I have to sleep in it before you'll continue reading? Do naps count?

It's funny you mention that though, I had planned to, once I got the walls and roof and floor finished in a week or two, to take her camping by myself for a night or two.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Make sure your engine has reached full temperature before going to the smog shop.

While the Smog Techs have to make sure it is warm, there is a difference between just off the highway hot, and when the temp gauge just rises to the normal area hot. Idling the engine to get it to full temp is not a good idea either. Drive it for a half hour beforehand, and show up a few minutes before the appointment.

If your vehicle fails miserably, you fall into the gross polluter category and even when you do pass will have to get a smog check every year instead of every 2.

 

[Basement Yeti]

Ok dude, thanks.

I need your help! I went to turn my lights on in my van yesterday and the interior lights don't work, today I checked my fuses and everything was OK, so I went into the wiring bundle to the only spot I used my drill and I hit a wire. Ever so slightly I knicked it.

How do I fix this?