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I'm sure there was a post about the possibility of multiple problems. very prophetic. Not sure where its disappeared to. First, the connector I went looking for isn't there. "J05" should have had several earth wires from blower/aircon, and only earths. The wiring diagram is now just a (useful)...

found another earth connection to chassis near the big junction box. Clean but cleaned it anyway. Got to the "doubting sanity" stage. Headlights now working (but maybe they always were, maybe I just didn't check enough, and disconnecting the earth I just cleaned doesn't effect them!). Also...

thanks John, found the multiple small earths next to the big cab/chassis junction box. They certainly don't look big enough for the sort of loads on the things that don't work. Very clean. No resistance before I cleaned it some more. No change in symptoms. I have most of the dash covering off...

thanks Owen. The special magic smoke is still in there .......... at least the engine runs. I'm a bit surprised the circuits could be designed so that aircon, blower, and electrical windows can fail at the same time - its a bit warm here - ... just as well the doors open! Cross reference...

2005 FG649 Aus. Can anyone tell me where the major shared earth connections are for headlights, exhaust retarder, blower fan, aircon, electric windows, are? First symptoms after stopping, a few minutes after ignition off, smoke and smell from under dashboard to left of instruments...

2005 FG649 on ATW supplied 285x19.5 singles around 4.5Mt - average 16.6 l/100km over 91,000km, 145 fills, humpty dozen countries, almost 3 years. Odometer calibrated against Garmin and iGo gps over long distances. Average speed usually well below 80 km/hr. Max speed rarely 100 km/hr, mostly 80...

the general problem is whether the alternator voltage is high enough to reasonably charge the camper batteries during a normal drive time. The starter batteries don't have to be fully charged to start the vehicle. Also, it doesn't take long to replace energy used if starting easily. A few...

nice find from Ian, thanks John mine is registered as a "truck based motorhome" - whatever that is - no-one who could, or was willing to, explain at the time .... I'll check the cost. Wouldn't it be silly if the only reason to have a pass-thru would be to reduce registration cost! And I don't...

with my metallurgical hat on (degree and steel making process improvement about 40 years ago) .... hydrogen embrittlement can occur from the pickling prior to galvanising, its a potential issue for high strength steels, the Mitsubishi chassis is probably high enough tensile that it matters...

I have vibration from the front drive shaft above about 50 km/hr after fitting parabolics. Nothing serious but enough to remind me to release the hubs. I fitted the springs while vehicle in UK and am now in India on way back to Aus. I'll probably replace the drive shaft when home. Not sure if...

it was a good thread, thanks for sharing

thanks Charlie, now I understand your comment. My guess is there's a reasonable chance that at 18psi John's wastegate is a little open as decreasing the inlet pressure signal to the wastegate actuator has the effect of increasing boost pressure. John, The problem I was trying to solve was a...

not much help to you, it will be another few months but I'm hoping to hook into the k-line directly out of the ECU (rather than through canbus) to at least get the measurements and diagnostics off my FG. My first attempt (while in foreign parts) failed but I don't know if its the OBD/USB...

temperature sensor sounds good for indication of air/fuel, easier than O2 ... Separately, are you suggesting that the wastegate control of boost pressure is exhaust gas temperature dependent?

that was also my impression. Possibly a small improvement. Around 3.5%. Usual disclaimer about no statistical significance etc. - not enough data for anovar .... :-) Beyond embarrassment its easy to get to doubting one's own sanity when chasing this sort of stuff. Even if there's no improvement...

what are the other nuts like? Lug/stud would permanently stretch progressively from somewhere in middle of nut. Try it with plasticine! :-) If the lug/stud doesn't break immediately (like the one that was twisted off) the fatigue fracture starts somewhere near the end of the nut. Crack grows...

nice summary John. Silly question ... did the test on the steep grade with wastegate disconnected have an effect on engine temperature (usually high on that grade if I've read correctly)? Possibly difficult to determine due to overboost error switching to limp. I don't know enough but...

the measurement used by the suppliers of wheel nut indicators is usually across the flats.

can't remember which forum I posted on .... ! ! About 5,000km after new springs (change to parabolic) and four new tyres. Some very rough Moroccan roads. One wheel nut loosened, evidence of wheel nut working against chamfer of hole in wheel, lug/stud had fatigue crack followed by brittle...

I put wheel nut indicators on after breaking three studs on one wheel. They haven't moved in more than 25,000 km. I hope yours aren't moving routinely. If they are it may suggest something more fundamental.