Pay close attention to that input gear bevel note; NP changed the pitch of those gears at some point (you'll need to research the year break if you need to swap input shafts). I found that out the hard way when I tried to swap a much later 27spline into an earlier 32spline case.
I was suggesting that because of the frame/controlling arm mounting differences that they may have had to make compromises on steering/CV angles and suspension travel that would differ from that of the suburban and truck...nothing that really matters unless you wanted to know if you were...
I'm running the eaton truetrac in my front 9.25, I've used them many times in the past in all kinds of vehicles and got nothing but good service/performance. I went with the truetrac rather than the factory unit simply because of my history with them, I'm sure the factory unit performs about the...
It would be interesting to see how the geometry of the Express AWD Vans compare with the trucks and what you have modeled, I've never heard of anyone ever having any trouble with those 1/2ton differentials, the only problems I've ever read on them is the viscous coupler in the transfer case...
Take a look at an NP241J from a wrangler, they are super dependable and come with factory SYE 32spline outputs, they are 23spline inputs. Nice compact design...
I agree, a GM NP241 is the simplest fix and they are bulletproof, I ran one for years in my LS2 powered rockcrawler then a couple years back swapped to the jeep rubicon NV241OR with the 4 to 1 low...it was more of a commitment because the output shaft of my 4L65e had to be swapped to the jeep...
double check on you input spline counts, 27spline input is (IIRC) almost exclusively a GM 1/2ton configuration (Th350, 4l60/65/70e, etc...) and 32spline input is the GM heavier duty(3/4ton usually) configuration (TH400, 4l80/85e) both of these would have the same 32spline outputs for all the...
true on the really large pop tops you can get a lot of upper room but there are a bunch(most I think) of them out there that don't offer much more than a 24" or 30" bubbletop
I don't think any suburban came with 1410 ujoints and I think only the 2500hd and up trucks came with 1410 on the rear shaft only. Worth a double check on that.
if you are on a slight downhill let it coast a bit while attempting to shift...they can be pretty finicky when not setting level/fully unloaded drivelines.
I've never looked at a sprinter brake system so it was just a thought, I do know the gm calipers are pretty massive and the piston/cylinder volume is larger than most...just another thing to look at. If your UCAs are rusty at all and balljoints are questionable I'd probably just buy new, they...
couple cans of "Easy Off" and a pressure washer...you'll be good to go. Oxy/Act torch does wonders to ease getting those stubborn bits to separate.
Are you going to try and stay with the sprinter master cylinder/brake assist or switch over to hydroboost/gm master cylinder?
before you throw money at performance hard parts for the engine, take it to an experienced LS tuner or talk to one of the many that are out there. There's a lot of performance to be gained with just a tune..
I think another important factor in deciding pop-top/fixed high top is where you camp, if you are in wet or high wind/sandy conditions frequently then the fixed high top is probably a better fit for you. No arguing the height issue. My rig is 9' 10" tall...it would require the same...
they run about $3500 shipped from Jegs, I agree it's pricey but for a lot of guys that can't do the mods for the 4l80e (which would include some considerable harness and tuning/tcm work beyond the mounts and driveshaft mods) it would be a pretty attractive option.
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