2013 Toyota 4Runner, Equipt Edition Build

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Equipt Chaser Overhaul

Equipt Chaser Overhaul!

IMG_2463 (Medium).JPGChaser 2.JPGChaser 3.JPG

So, while I was in southern Africa the guys at AT Overland started work on my Chaser. Here is the link to that thread.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/115171-Equipt-s-Chaser-Overhaul

My hope is that the end result will be an up to date Chaser, with all the bells and whistles, that will showcase for Equipt and AT. It will match the 4Runner with silver paint and matching rims/tires. Equipt Chaser 2.0 on the way.

Cheers,
 

TravelTacoma

Observer
Thanks for the Info

I increased the tire size about 1-1/2"or so over stock, and a 3" OME. I went from light duty Michelins to BFG All Terrains. Honestly, I saw no difference in power and the ride improved. I have no scientific data, just seat of my pants feel. I simply haven't felt any change in the power band. I am sure there is, somewhere. Increasing the size and weight of the tire will do that, but I can't feel it. I don't have any plan to re-gear right now. Toyota spent a lot of time engineering the drivetrain to where it is, so that is good enough for me. The 4Runner tows my Chaser trailer as well or better than the 100 did. Keep in mind the 4Runner is much much lighter in current form, so that isn't a fair fight. But it has 35 more hp than the 100 did, and close to the same torque. I am seeing a 50% increase in fuel economy too. I would highly recommend test driving one for yourself.

Cheers,

Thank you for the info Paul, it is very much appreciated. I will have to try and schedule a test drive soon. Hopefully the wife doesn't kill me for buying yet another car!
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Rear Hatch 1.0

4Runner Rear Hatch 1.0

OEM Slide Removal

The next project on the 4Runner was the rear hatch area. In my opinion, it needed some work. The Trail Edition comes with a OEM slide out tray in the back. It has a significant load capacity of around 400 lbs, and a 3 position locking pull out capacity: closed, 1', 2'. I would imagine this is quite useful for most owners, and it looks quite nice. But is wasn't what I wanted to have back there. So out it went. When I pulled out the slide, I found that the back area had plenty of options for mounting locations that I could use for my own design. There were several threaded inserts for the OEM stuff, and a few openings that I could use for my own inserts.

2013-04-23 12.11.54.jpg2013-04-23 12.45.31.jpg2013-04-25 14.05.51.jpg

Design Concept

My intent for the 4Runner was much more minimal at this stage than my 100 Series build. In that one, I had 2 huge drawers, a Tembo Tusk Load Spotter drop down slide built into a aluminum/wood enclosure. We had clamshell storage in the side doors that had onboard shower and compressor, as well as a huge bed for our lab Dezi. A full build out, and it performed great! I call this rear hatch 1.0 because I have no doubt that I will be building 2.0 soon enough, but I want to have some time with the truck and understand it's size and capability before I run headlong into a full blown system. So, here is what I wanted to try for a while. I wanted to have a fridge in the back, mounted lower for center of gravity. I wanted storage for my ever present Snow Peak IGT set, and room to carry my extra gear. We are also leaving in the back seat for now. I also wanted the option of sleeping inside the truck if need be, so a low profile build to match the seats folded up was needed.

Construction

I started the with a term my friend John Lange uses called CAD (cardboard aided design). I templated a base to fit snugly into the rear area, enough to meet the rear seats and rear entry with enough room for a surface treatment of some type. I was amazed at how simple this went together. I was able to use several of the existing mounting points and added a couple nutzerts and spacers to existing holes. No new holes were needed for mounting of this system at all. On top of the main panel we designed a small shelf on the right hand side of the area to store 3 sections of a Snow Peak IGT system. The main Iron Grill Table 3 unit piece, the IGT table extension, and a IGT corner piece. These 3 sections were the same kitchen I took with me to Central America, and are the basis of our camp kitchen. They are excellent kit, except for storing them. This solution works well for us. I covered the base and shelf with custom ordered automotive carpet in black, sourced locally. It will hold up much better than the speaker felt that we used in the 100 Series, and matches the material used on the floors up front. Attached to the far right side of the shelf is our Halon fire extinguisher for easy access.

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Fridge Slide

On the left hand side we sourced a Tembo Tusk standard fridge slide with cutting board. It has a 100% pull out, uses bombproof Accuglide slides and the cutting board pullout is infinitely useful. I designed the Snow Peak shelf to be the same height as the slide. The fridge of choice is the National Luna Weekender 50L Split in Stainless Steel. In my opinion, it is the best fridge they offer. World class quality and construction, incredibly efficient, very quiet, and dual zone. A 40L fridge area and a 10L freezer area. Perfect for 2 people on a round the world adventure. Someday. The stainless exterior not only looks great, it will withstand just about any punishment you can throw at it. I had one of these in the 100 Series for years, and knew I would have one here without a doubt. I installed a dedicated electrical circuit to the driver's rear wheel panel. It runs from the Blue Sea fuse block under the hood, through the firewall and back through the door chases to the rear panel. There is a Hella style socket for the fridge and a secondary cigar lighter style socket for accessories. These are live full time. There is also room in front of the slide for my tool box, giving me quick access to my tools from the driver's rear door.

End Result

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The end result is a minimalistic rear hatch build that gives us a very clean design, and will last for a long time. Longer than I am sure I will leave it alone. It is a starting point, and with time I am sure we will think of a 2.0 version right for this vehicle. We've had this design in place for a while now and it is working out great so far.



Cheers,
 

targa88

Explorer
" I installed a dedicated electrical circuit to the driver's rear wheel panel. It runs from the Blue Sea fuse block under the hood, through the firewall and back through the door chases to the rear panel. There is a Hella style socket for the fridge and a secondary cigar lighter style socket for accessories."

Paul,
Do you have more details/pix of the above components/installation?
 

Scott Brady

Founder
clean work Paul!
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Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
" I installed a dedicated electrical circuit to the driver's rear wheel panel. It runs from the Blue Sea fuse block under the hood, through the firewall and back through the door chases to the rear panel. There is a Hella style socket for the fridge and a secondary cigar lighter style socket for accessories."

Paul,
Do you have more details/pix of the above components/installation?


I can add a bit to this portion, sure.

Fridge Outlet Install

We installed a National Luna dual battery system under the hood of the 4Runner. The Intelligent Solenoid was attached to a steel plate we fabricated to mount on OEM threaded points on the driver's side wheel well. Next to it we did the same for a Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block. All mounting to OEM spots. Our goal there is to create as few new holes in the truck as we can. I like the Blue Sea block because it offers coverage from the elements and great access to connection points. You can also note what each fuse is for. Very handy. I ran a pair of #10 automotive grade stranded wire from the block through the interior of the truck, routing it parallel to the OEM wiring harness to the back of the vehicle. There is a chase under the door frames that is accessible by pulling up the plastic covers of the driver's side doors. The driver's side rear quarter panel took a little extra time to access. Several of the rear side panels had to be pulled away to give me room to the wheel well area. Once there, I could see there was plenty of room to add the electrical I needed. The 2 outlets are staggered in location, and there is room for more if needed. I connected the #10s to the Hella Socket, and piggybacked leads from that connection to the secondary socket. All terminations were the airplane style push on female connectors.

NL Intelligent Solenoid and Fuse Block.JPG2013-04-25 16.59.10.jpg

Fridge Electrical Requirements

When considering the installation of a fridge in your vehicle, it is very important to consider the electrical requirements of that fridge. Any brand of fridge will have a significant draw, especially upon start up. The OEM outlets that manufacturers are installing in most vehicles today are not designed to service this draw. They are at the end of a long wiring harness, tapped off of multiple times, and most likely reduced to a 18 or 20 gauge wire. Good for charging a phone, but not for a fridge. Will they run one? Most likely. But it will not run efficiently at all, and consequently it will have to run more. And running a fridge more than necessary reduces your battery life. Most likely the outlet is switched at the key anyway. That is not a proper solution to run a fridge.

Take a look at the cord your fridge comes with. That is the minimum your wire size should be. On the National Luna fridges, the cord is in between a #10 and #12. I chose the #10 wire to compensate for voltage loss to the socket. A smaller wire as the source of current for your fridge will equate to larger current draw down at the fridge. National Luna has an automated voltage cutoff level, designed to save your battery. I believe other fridges have the same option. If the fridge tries to start, and draws on the connection to a slightly low battery, the draw down through a small wire may read as a low battery and the fridge will shut itself down as designed but unnecessarily. So run a fused dedicated line no smaller than #12 from your battery source to your fridge outlet. Give your fridge what it needs and a fighting chance to do its job.

Cheers,
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Nice work indeed. What material did you use, plywood, MDF, something else?

3/4" Plywood. I haven't had much luck with thinner material. The weight difference saved in thinner material is negligible. The 2.0 version might very well be a lighter composite material, depending on how big a build I do.

cheers,
 

Jus4fun

New member
Paul,
Did you put in any rib supports under the middle section of the rear floor where toe body is a bit of a small tub shape? I am in the middle of the same project w/ my 5th Gen.

Thanks,
George
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Paul,
Did you put in any rib supports under the middle section of the rear floor where toe body is a bit of a small tub shape? I am in the middle of the same project w/ my 5th Gen.

Thanks,
George

Hi George!

Happy birthday, BTW. What I did is formed the main panel to rest on the sides of the framework, front to back. Then I used a series of stacked 1-1/2" square washers (actually unistrut washers) wrapped in duct tape to mitigate scratching the frame. There are 5 mounting points holding the main panel in place. I didn't think the cavity under there required bracing. The 3/4" plywood is quite sound on its own, and attaching the shelf and slide assist in distribution of weight. Here are a couple photos to show more detail.

2013-04-25 14.05.51.jpg2013-04-25 14.06.01.jpg2013-04-25 16.41.52.jpg

First photo is the cross bracing where I stacked the spacers, second is the frame rail the panel rests on front to back, and the third shows the 5 mounting points.

Cheers,
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
My unobtainium order is on backorder at the moment. They say it is out of stock.

Figures.
 

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