Root Moose
Expedition Leader
So what is the thought here? Was the stock fuel pump unable to maintain the correct fuel rail PSI with the larger injectors?
AT Comanche upgrades
- Thread starter elcoyote
- Start date
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
The stock fuel pump runs the fuel through a pressure regulator that controls pressure to the injectors. The injectors needed for the stroker need to be larger to handle the larger displacement of the modified engine. In my case, I used 26 lb injectors. Unfortunately the stock regulator has a 40 max psi rating that is not adequate for the larger injectors. By having a regulator that I can adjust, I can fine tune the air/fuel mixture to the engine and hence fix the lean condition that causes the pinging.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Let us know what psi you settle on. A stroker is in my future (albeit distant). It would be nice to know what range to start tuning with.
Btw, it's all your fault that I've started collecting parts for a MJ build. Now to find a decent truck to start with.
Btw, it's all your fault that I've started collecting parts for a MJ build. Now to find a decent truck to start with.
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Btw, it's all your fault that I've started collecting parts for a MJ build. Now to find a decent truck to start with.
...I hold my head down in shame...
Backwoods Rambler
Explorer
Updates? :coffeedrink:
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Working on a dual swing away at the moment. Left side carrying the spare tire, the right side a kitchen. More details once I have something to show.
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Interior build out
I removed the interior today to replace all of my aluminum riv-nuts with zinc coated steel ones and documented the interior components in sequence so that you could all see how the puzzle goes together.
Note in the photos, the power pack is bolted through its case to the bed of the MJ. The water tank is secured from moving on 4 sides by the front of the bed, 2 angle brackets and the side of the bed. It is held down by the top loading box.
I will post later on the installation of the water purifying filter, on-board engine coolant heat exchange hot water tank and external shower connection.
I removed the interior today to replace all of my aluminum riv-nuts with zinc coated steel ones and documented the interior components in sequence so that you could all see how the puzzle goes together.
Note in the photos, the power pack is bolted through its case to the bed of the MJ. The water tank is secured from moving on 4 sides by the front of the bed, 2 angle brackets and the side of the bed. It is held down by the top loading box.
I will post later on the installation of the water purifying filter, on-board engine coolant heat exchange hot water tank and external shower connection.
Attachments
Last edited:
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Interior build out - more...
Here is the complete interior showing all the drawers and storage boxes in place as well as the National Luna Fridge/Freezer on its slide.
The water tank view is of the 1 1/2" tank fill line and 1/4" vent tube. The tank is 17 gallons. A Shurflo pressure sensing pump is used.
The light is a dual LED: white & red. There are two 12 volt outlets on the left side the light housing box and a double throw switch for the light on the right.
Below the light box is a Carmanah 25 amp solar controller that supplies the National Luna Power Pack that is fitted with a Deka 105 amp valve regulated AGM battery. The power pack supplies all house power needs: lights, fridge, oscillating fan, lap top & inverter.
Here is the complete interior showing all the drawers and storage boxes in place as well as the National Luna Fridge/Freezer on its slide.
The water tank view is of the 1 1/2" tank fill line and 1/4" vent tube. The tank is 17 gallons. A Shurflo pressure sensing pump is used.
The light is a dual LED: white & red. There are two 12 volt outlets on the left side the light housing box and a double throw switch for the light on the right.
Below the light box is a Carmanah 25 amp solar controller that supplies the National Luna Power Pack that is fitted with a Deka 105 amp valve regulated AGM battery. The power pack supplies all house power needs: lights, fridge, oscillating fan, lap top & inverter.
Attachments
Last edited:
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Exterior inlets
The first picture shows the water fill on the passenger side. This is a marine grade stainless steel inlet, 1 1/2" line.
The second picture is the solar panel inlet on the drivers side. The 4 screws and washers are holding the junction box for the controller on the inside as shown in previous post.
The first picture shows the water fill on the passenger side. This is a marine grade stainless steel inlet, 1 1/2" line.
The second picture is the solar panel inlet on the drivers side. The 4 screws and washers are holding the junction box for the controller on the inside as shown in previous post.
Attachments
jeepmedic46
Expedition Leader
Looks good,:smiley_drive:
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Looks great. I can hardly wait to start the interior build on mine :drool:
elcoyote
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
I thought I would give a little bit of an update on the 4.6 Golen stoker motor that I put in the MJ now that she has about 6000 miles on it.
Initially I experienced some pinging under load. At first I reduced the pinging problem with Lucas Octane Booster however that is not an effective long term solution. Golen recommended that I put in a Hesco adjustable fuel regulator to solve the problem, theory being that she was not getting enough fuel under load. I have a Split Second ARM-1 Fuel/Air ratio meter on the dash that was not indicating a substantially reduced mixture but I took the advice anyway and installed the regulator. The regulator was to be preset at the factory at 44 psi however it turns out that it was only set at 39 psi. The factory jam nut had to be replaced to get sufficient adjustment to get it up to 44 psi.
After about 2000 miles of the Hesco regulator, I decided to return to the factory regulator and octane booster because I was having too wide a mixture variation with the Hesco regulator and triggering the check engine light.
Since I had good experience with the Split Second ARM-1 and had it previously combined with their PSC-1 Programmable Signal Calibrator/MAP sensor when I had the supercharger installed, I decided to try their FTC1-019BV Fuel/Timing Calibrator. The FTC intercepts the cam sensor signal, MAP sensor signal, throttle position sensor signal, before it hits the ECU.
The FTC is installed inside that cab, on the passenger side wall where I can have access to the RS-232 port. The unit uses the same R-4 software supplied by Spilt Second for the PSC. The FTC uses 2 maps. Map A is the relationship between engine RPM and the voltage signal sent to the ECU from inputs of the MAP & throttle position sensors. Map B is degrees of timing retardation in relation to RPM. The beauty of the software is that essentially a ramped 3-D image of control voltages can be built to manipulate engine performance via a laptop.
After about 2 hours of running up the Baldy road and high speed acceleration runs down the 210 freeway, I was able to fine tune the pinging out and smooth out the air/fuel ratio and hence improve overall performance. On average the fuel signal was adjusted 21% and the engine was retarded .5 to 2 degrees on a ramped curve depending upon input voltages. Over time as I get more familiar with the engine, I may fine tune from these initial adjustments but for now, I can say that I am very pleased with the results.
I see one of the great advantages of having the FTC being able to tune the engine to run on lower octanes of fuel in other countries should the need arise without the risk of engine damage.
Initially I experienced some pinging under load. At first I reduced the pinging problem with Lucas Octane Booster however that is not an effective long term solution. Golen recommended that I put in a Hesco adjustable fuel regulator to solve the problem, theory being that she was not getting enough fuel under load. I have a Split Second ARM-1 Fuel/Air ratio meter on the dash that was not indicating a substantially reduced mixture but I took the advice anyway and installed the regulator. The regulator was to be preset at the factory at 44 psi however it turns out that it was only set at 39 psi. The factory jam nut had to be replaced to get sufficient adjustment to get it up to 44 psi.
After about 2000 miles of the Hesco regulator, I decided to return to the factory regulator and octane booster because I was having too wide a mixture variation with the Hesco regulator and triggering the check engine light.
Since I had good experience with the Split Second ARM-1 and had it previously combined with their PSC-1 Programmable Signal Calibrator/MAP sensor when I had the supercharger installed, I decided to try their FTC1-019BV Fuel/Timing Calibrator. The FTC intercepts the cam sensor signal, MAP sensor signal, throttle position sensor signal, before it hits the ECU.
The FTC is installed inside that cab, on the passenger side wall where I can have access to the RS-232 port. The unit uses the same R-4 software supplied by Spilt Second for the PSC. The FTC uses 2 maps. Map A is the relationship between engine RPM and the voltage signal sent to the ECU from inputs of the MAP & throttle position sensors. Map B is degrees of timing retardation in relation to RPM. The beauty of the software is that essentially a ramped 3-D image of control voltages can be built to manipulate engine performance via a laptop.
After about 2 hours of running up the Baldy road and high speed acceleration runs down the 210 freeway, I was able to fine tune the pinging out and smooth out the air/fuel ratio and hence improve overall performance. On average the fuel signal was adjusted 21% and the engine was retarded .5 to 2 degrees on a ramped curve depending upon input voltages. Over time as I get more familiar with the engine, I may fine tune from these initial adjustments but for now, I can say that I am very pleased with the results.
I see one of the great advantages of having the FTC being able to tune the engine to run on lower octanes of fuel in other countries should the need arise without the risk of engine damage.
Attachments
adventureduo
Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Right on Mario, glad to see it hopefully running better. What does that system cost?