EarthRoamer XV-JP "Northwest Edition"

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
Thanks for the kind words...

It's just me...

An assistant would mostly get in the way, not do things exactly as I think they should be done and ask too many "why?" questions that would disrupt my focus and work flow...

Working solo affords me the focus I need, and that is absolute...
 

pods8

Explorer
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(above) The 1/8" Afromosia ply headliner panel got patterned with polyurethane adhesive...

I'm sure Paul thought of this since he used foam board adhesive (latex based) on the foam faces and polyurethane (solvent based) only on the foil face but for clarity for anyone watching that is a key distinction you don't want to miss. The solvent based stuff will eat polystyrene. ;)
 

ersatzknarf

lost, but making time
Installment #28, today, has been the most riveting of a completely riveting thread, yet !
WOW !
Seeing the final process start has been just thrilling.
Thank you very much for sharing, Paul.
I agree with Pat, your artistry is beyond impressive.
:sombrero:
 

ab1985

Explorer
Totally amazing! Makes me want to scrap everything I've done inside my 4runner and start from scratch (although it would still look like junk in comparison). Aside from the quality and craftsmanship, I'm also very impressed with your creativity given the situation. My brother is a carpenter by trade and can crank out some beautiful work, but I'm sure he'd be scratching his head if I asked him to outfit the interior of of my truck with something comparable to what he installs in a custom home.
 

AeroNautiCal

Explorer
I for one am really going to miss this thread when the work is completed... Someone please ask Paul to accept a new commission when that time comes.
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
Twenty-Nine...

Twenty-Nine...

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(above) Yesterday was a good day...Today should be another of significant progress...First off, I removed the props that clamped the front cabin headliner in place...Love that color...

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(above) Today I'll get serious with the drawer faces, but first the shop needs some sorting out...

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(above) Mo' bettah ...

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(above) I pulled the zebrawood veneers out of my heated trailer and cut out oversize pieces for the drawer faces...To cut it, I put a wide strip of untempered hardboard on the table, put the veneer over it, then with a fresh utility knife blade along a steel straightedge, cut the veneer...

Next I cut similar size pieces of 1/2" birch ply that will be the core of the drawer faces...

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(above) Next I ripped some solid zebrawood for plywood edging...3/8" x 9/16"...Oversize so it can be sanded flush after gluing it to the ply...

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(above) On a cabinet with multiple drawers, I make a 'story board' that shows the drawer sizes and the margins (gaps at the edges) between each drawer...

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(above) I measure the height that will be the finished drawer face, set the rip-fence to that number, then put the two edge pieces against the fence and run the ply through the saw...

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(above) Exact sizing is easy without resorting to 'math'...

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(above) Next the solid wood edging is glued and pin-nailed to the top and bottom edges...

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(above) Faces, placed and spaced...Looking as it should...

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(above) Next the faces are cut to width, compensating as above, for the solid wood edging and margins...Finally the edge wood is cut to height and glued and pin-nail to the drawer face...

This whole process goes by pretty fast and easy...

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(above) On to the slide bolts...I revised the design...Instead of walnut 'captures', I'm going with the drawer face ply as the bolt captive...So I made two jigs to cut the slots and grooves that will the create what I need...One is for the right sides, the other for the lefts...

The reason for making two jigs is because my plunge router has an offset base and due to that offset, it just wasn't as easy to make a single fixture as it was to make a matched pair...

Making the jigs, or more accurately, figuring out what the jigs need to do, and the sequencing of cuts, took about an hour...Since I really like this slide latch design and will use it in the future, taking the time now to make these jigs was time well invested...

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(above) Sample drawer face with slide bolt retracted...

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(above) ....and extended...

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(above) It took about a half hour to do the first series of cuts...

First thing tomorrow, I'll change the router bit and cut the second set of cuts for the bolts...

More tomorrow...
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Very nice....

A question though..
Other than very cool looks is there a reason to do drawer faces?
I would think your corner joints would be plenty strong and work well as the face. For you it doesn't seem like too much more hard work to make these amazing faces but for someone like me that would be a project unto itself :)
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
There are countless ways to create sliding storage...Each can be rationalized...

I just try to exceed the client's expectations...
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
Thirty...

Thirty...

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(above) Where I left off...Routering the second slot in the drawer faces for the pulls / latches...Jigs pin-nailed to the drawer blanks...

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(above) The backside of the drawer faces after the routering was finished...

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(above) Rough faces in position...To securely mount the face to the drawer box, I'll use adhesives a couple of pin-nails and the fail safe will be T-nuts...The pencil marks on the faces are the location for the T-nuts...

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(above) The zebrawood edging was proud of the drawer faces so I belt sanded them flush...This simple set-up of ply scraps, nailed to the work table, made flat sanding easy...

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(above) Sanded and T-nutted...

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(above) I'ts time to veneer the faces...On the left is the veneer, face down...The veneer is thin, real wood, bonded to a paper backing to keep it dimensionally stable and simplify use...The contact cement is solvent based and is high in bad fumes, so a respirator and good ventilation are suggested...

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(above) A coat of cement is brushed on each surface and left to get dry to the touch...

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(above) After fifteen minutes of air drying the faces were ready to be bonded to the veneer...I put the faces on the veneer spaced as they will be installed, with 1/8" gaps between the drawers...

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(above) I pull out a knife I got in Japan to do precision cutting...I'll first cut the drawers apart, then fine tune the edges flush, then the slots for the slide-bolts need to be opened up...

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(above) After each cut, I sharpen the blade on a piece of 220 grit...That baby stays sharp...

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(above) Drawer faces in position with a rough slide-bolts in place...Also note the walnut inserts that are part of the design to keep the bolts from sliding open when driving...More on that below...

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(above) It's good now... It's going to get better...I have a plan...You'll see...

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(above) For now, I'm stoked how it works and looks...

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(above) Next the slide-bolts get the corners rounded...To maintain consistency, I ganged the bolts in a nail-together plywood jig...

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(above) Then with one hand holding a scrap of ply hard atop of the bolts, and the other hand holding a 50 grit sanding block, the edges get rounded as a group...

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(above) Consistency...

I've evolved my thoughts about keeping the slide-bolts shut...The last idea I had was to use wood pegs going into drilled holes to keep the bolts from moving when in transit...My revised thinking is to use the smallest bullet latched mounted in the walnut peg and an indent hole drilled into the teak slider...Just enough pressure to keep the bolt from moving while rattling down the road, and no loose parts to possibly lose...Makes sense to me...

More tomorrow...

After I surf...!!!...
 

pods8

Explorer
You know among other things that stands out is your nice layout of space in the shop that obviously is getting vacuumed/swept regularly, for all the routing/sanding going on there is very little saw dust. :)
 

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