Kitchen Kit/Chuck Box

The basic chuck box and base is now assembled. Doors are on and the flip top panels are on, too. I still need to source the latches to keep the doors closed and finish the wood. . . I'm leaning towards tung oil unless someone has other suggestions.
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Looks great- I love the simplicity and completeness of it.

I would recommend a finish that will stand up to a bit more abuse than tung oil will. Something in the polyurethane family is what I'd use. FYI, the main difference between "marine" poly and "indoor" poly is that the marine stuff has UV inhibitors in it so that the wood color doesn't fade from exposure to sunlight. Both are excellent at repelling water.
 

Dirtytires

Explorer
I was on cloud nine for a few minutes yesterday when I saw one from the 1950-60 era for sale local. I was of course to late.. DAng..It was a beauty.
Beat up, used very well. Nice work there fellows..
 

Treenail

Adventurer
Maybe a fourth!?

Do a run on the Ikea plan.

ALL assembly required. Buy the hardware locally. Splash on your own finish..

I'm an arborist and I save my clients lots of money buy pricing jobs for them to do some or all of the cleanup. I get paid for skill...they save by doing the monkey work on the ground. I have no problem being the monkey when I can save money for more bananas!

Tom
 
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GFA

Adventurer
Wow, indeed! Essentially the wood version of the Campmate. Very nice! You going to carry that in your M416? If so, how plan to keep dry? Right in my backyard - we may have to talk!

I'm in the process of building a lid for the 416 :bike_rider:

Thanks for all the kind words, but I can't really take credit for it. A good friend of mine made both of them, I just supplied all of the materials and a little help to cut the wood. We used 12mm baltic birch plywood, it's absolutely beautiful in person. I'm kinda dreading using it as I know it'll get banged up...

He does have the whole thing on sketch up along with a cut list and may be willing to share. We had also talked about putting it in cad so many of them could be cut out at a time on a CNC table, I think he knows a guy with one.. An ikea type kit may be possible if he's interested, I'll find out.

SB
 

cruisertoy

Explorer
Wow! Thanks for the compliments guys . . . and the offers!

I hadn't thought much about it before but . . . it would be cool to sell it as an Ikea-style flatpack kit, complete with hardware, pre-cut piano hinges, screws, hinges, latches, etc.

Unfortunately, my neighbor is selling his CNC machine so these were among the last of the items cut on it.

When I'm finished with the project I'll put together some plans, instructions, and a cut layout for a 4x8 sheet of plywood. . . . which, BTW this only requires 1 sheet of plywood to make the basic box and stand. And another, hm, 1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood perhaps for some of the internal organizers and boxes such as a utensil drawer.

I hope to have the project finished in the next few weeks and then I can get the plans done.

Great stuff. I've done a few of these over the years, but your attention to detail is much higher. I'd buy a set of plans if you end up deciding to sell the plans. I've got three 5 axis cnc machines here at work, but knowing my project list here I won't be getting personal time on them for a while. We just sold the perfect 3 axis Patriot cnc a few months ago. I cut a ton of cabinet stuff and picture frames with it. It was less than a year old and we sold it for $12k. I can't tell you how tempting it was to put it in my garage to help with my "honey do list", oh and a few of my own projects as well;)
 

JJBiggs

Supporting Sponsor | SEES
Very nice!
It looks like mine :D

17.jpg

Still looking good Corey. ;)
I have almost the same table.

C.
 
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lupinsea

Observer
Looks great- I love the simplicity and completeness of it.

I would recommend a finish that will stand up to a bit more abuse than tung oil will. Something in the polyurethane family is what I'd use. FYI, the main difference between "marine" poly and "indoor" poly is that the marine stuff has UV inhibitors in it so that the wood color doesn't fade from exposure to sunlight. Both are excellent at repelling water.

Hey, I'm all ears on the type of finish to use.

I'm looking or something that can get dinged up, possibly scratched, but would minimize the show of ware. I've used a urethane spar varnish on my cargo deck and it just got all scratched to heck the very first time I tried to put something on it. After that it was a lost cause. It didn't help that it had a dark ebony stain that helped scratches how up real well.

Live an learn.

So, I haven't started finishing the chuck box yet because I haven't settled on what to use.

It would be nice to get something that soaks in and hardens up the wood fibers. I'm a little leary of anything that is a "soft" finish that builds up on the surface like the spar varnish I used. And, this time, I'm going with a straight clear finish. No stains or anything to make the wood darker.

SO I'm open to specific suggestions. The tung oil sounded promising but most of the directions I've read on it mention it's good for indoor furniture and such. I don't see much mention of exterior applications.

And again, the chuck box will be stored in a dry garage and I don't really plan to go camping in a down pour, but I'd like something to hold up for the occasional rain shower if I get caught out in it.
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Still looking good Corey. ;)
I have almost the same table.

C.
Thanks Chad.
Not using that Cabelas table though, as it is to wobbly.
Now using a Slumberjack table that can hold 100 lb, much sturdier.
Thanks for creating the design of this chuckbox, it is perfect for me.
 

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