articulate
Expedition Leader
What a scene of perfection:
How long before the condos and golf-playing gringos arrive?
How long before the condos and golf-playing gringos arrive?
Make Tacos Not War...FJ45 Wanderings in Mexico.
- Thread starter Hltoppr
- Start date
Hltoppr
El Gringo Spectacular!
The "Eyes" have it....On to Alamos!
After a wonderful night's sleep, listening to the waves crashing on the beach and watching the stars, we pack up and head into the town of Puerto Libertad for some fuel and hopefully some breakfast.
After dodging some dogs, we find the only local spot that's open, and wander in through a nice, cool, courtyard full of bright purple bougainvillea to the "bar" area, where we're treated to the full gamut of VHS recordings of TV singers of the 70s in Spanish. In perusing the menu, which is written in black marker on yellow posterboard, and taped to the wall, we order some fresh Mexican eggs and huevos rancheros, but are curious as to one item on the "tacos" list....."Tacos de ojo."
Our Spanish isn't that bad...but we have to ask....Eyes? Really? Of What?
Ojos de vaca...is the answer. Well, to be on the menu, SOMEONE must like 'em, so we order a couple....when in Rome, right!?
While they're being made; right before OUR eyes, we converse as to what to expect....consistency, taste, etc. all are topics. The eye tacos finally arrive...looking somewhat like BBQ....
Dave confirms that these are indeed staring back at us....
We tentatively bite into breakfast....hmm....kinda tasteless...kinda like slimy chicken fat....not bad, per se, but not something that I'll be ordering in the future....
So, at least the other breakfast items were much more tasty!
The streets of P. Libertad:
We head on down the paved road heading Southeast from P. Libertad, with our destination being the colonial town of Alamos, inland and Southeast of Ciudad Obregon, and the site of a thriving expatriot community. Alamos was featured in the film "The Mexican" (Brad Pitt & Julia Roberts), with it's narrow streets and early classical architecture.
We finally hit the Quota, or toll road, outside of Hermosillo....kinda expensive for what you get...it's windy, of course, and the road conditions are, well, interesting with 25 year old Land Cruiser steering. Signs stating "Orilla Peligrosa" litter the side of the road....and no, it doesn't mean that there are dangerous gorillas hiding everywhere, but hints at the fact that there are really no road shoulders in most of Mexico, only a 6 inch to 20 foot dropoff which spells immediate rollover doom to all who dare allow a tire to go over it....seriously, we saw at least three accidents in three hours! :Wow1:
Combine this with the practice of allowing cattle and horses to graze in the median...and you've got some interesting driving!
The toll booths are generally quick, but we get stuck in traffic at the last one before Ciudad Obregon for about an hour....crawling along with trucks, buses and passenger cars. Closer to the booth, vendors besiege the traffic selling everything from Cokes to CDs and handmade furniture....
We're almost to the toll booth when we watch the car in front of us buy a CD from a street vendor...then proceed to not have any cash left over for the toll...we both try not to become "ugly americans."
After more pavement, we arrive at Alamos in the late afternoon, and find a nice hotel on the central plaza which has an espresso machine! Streets are narrow, mostly cobblestone, and the town is dominated by a colonial era Catholic church which is a sight to behold!
We take a moment to relax, then wander about the quiet streets, find some dinner and a couple of Tecates, and watch an Easter pageant put on by the local kids on the plaza. Later, we check in to the local dive motel and fall asleep to the sounds of roosters (obviously their timing is off!) and dogs...Mexico is never quiet, but it doesn't bother you!
Next Up....more dirt and some wrong turns...I hope we have enough fuel!
-H-
After a wonderful night's sleep, listening to the waves crashing on the beach and watching the stars, we pack up and head into the town of Puerto Libertad for some fuel and hopefully some breakfast.
After dodging some dogs, we find the only local spot that's open, and wander in through a nice, cool, courtyard full of bright purple bougainvillea to the "bar" area, where we're treated to the full gamut of VHS recordings of TV singers of the 70s in Spanish. In perusing the menu, which is written in black marker on yellow posterboard, and taped to the wall, we order some fresh Mexican eggs and huevos rancheros, but are curious as to one item on the "tacos" list....."Tacos de ojo."
Our Spanish isn't that bad...but we have to ask....Eyes? Really? Of What?
Ojos de vaca...is the answer. Well, to be on the menu, SOMEONE must like 'em, so we order a couple....when in Rome, right!?
While they're being made; right before OUR eyes, we converse as to what to expect....consistency, taste, etc. all are topics. The eye tacos finally arrive...looking somewhat like BBQ....
Dave confirms that these are indeed staring back at us....
We tentatively bite into breakfast....hmm....kinda tasteless...kinda like slimy chicken fat....not bad, per se, but not something that I'll be ordering in the future....
So, at least the other breakfast items were much more tasty!
The streets of P. Libertad:
We head on down the paved road heading Southeast from P. Libertad, with our destination being the colonial town of Alamos, inland and Southeast of Ciudad Obregon, and the site of a thriving expatriot community. Alamos was featured in the film "The Mexican" (Brad Pitt & Julia Roberts), with it's narrow streets and early classical architecture.
We finally hit the Quota, or toll road, outside of Hermosillo....kinda expensive for what you get...it's windy, of course, and the road conditions are, well, interesting with 25 year old Land Cruiser steering. Signs stating "Orilla Peligrosa" litter the side of the road....and no, it doesn't mean that there are dangerous gorillas hiding everywhere, but hints at the fact that there are really no road shoulders in most of Mexico, only a 6 inch to 20 foot dropoff which spells immediate rollover doom to all who dare allow a tire to go over it....seriously, we saw at least three accidents in three hours! :Wow1:
Combine this with the practice of allowing cattle and horses to graze in the median...and you've got some interesting driving!
The toll booths are generally quick, but we get stuck in traffic at the last one before Ciudad Obregon for about an hour....crawling along with trucks, buses and passenger cars. Closer to the booth, vendors besiege the traffic selling everything from Cokes to CDs and handmade furniture....
We're almost to the toll booth when we watch the car in front of us buy a CD from a street vendor...then proceed to not have any cash left over for the toll...we both try not to become "ugly americans."
After more pavement, we arrive at Alamos in the late afternoon, and find a nice hotel on the central plaza which has an espresso machine! Streets are narrow, mostly cobblestone, and the town is dominated by a colonial era Catholic church which is a sight to behold!
We take a moment to relax, then wander about the quiet streets, find some dinner and a couple of Tecates, and watch an Easter pageant put on by the local kids on the plaza. Later, we check in to the local dive motel and fall asleep to the sounds of roosters (obviously their timing is off!) and dogs...Mexico is never quiet, but it doesn't bother you!
Next Up....more dirt and some wrong turns...I hope we have enough fuel!
-H-
Last edited:
BajaTaco
Swashbuckler
:lurk: Thanks H, we're enjoying the tale. (side note: Did you know Caborca is Prescott's sister city?)
:cow: < I think I found the cow who's orbs you were feasting upon. Sounds delicious! I admire people who are willing to try new dishes in faraway lands.
:cow: < I think I found the cow who's orbs you were feasting upon. Sounds delicious! I admire people who are willing to try new dishes in faraway lands.
24HOURSOFNEVADA
Expedition Leader
I'm "Eating" this up.
ok bad joke, great pictures.
ok bad joke, great pictures.
mountainpete
Spamicus Eliminatus
It snowed here last night. This thread makes me happy :coffeedrink:
Bill Beers
Explorer
Great thread! I'm really enjoying reading it.
-Bill
-Bill
Hltoppr
El Gringo Spectacular!
Alamos to...somewhere not where we think we are....
We arise the next morning to the same thing we fell asleep to...roosters; having just thrown the sleeping bags on the beds provided by the motel...I was really glad I didn't have one of Chuck's "scorpion" black lights for that place....
Foregoing breakfast, we were eager to hit the road to El Fuerte to the South. We had a road log from Efuente's web site, and were going to try and follow it. (Thanks, Sir!)
Before heading out of Alamos, we took a side trip up to the lookout area, which gives one a bird's eye (not more tacos...) view of the city. Really incredible!
Head South from the Plaza...and look for the sign!
From there we hit dirt; another good road...although we did run into some traffic.
The road log was going pretty well, until we started seeing roadwork...then...the most beautiful pavement in Mexico....if we were on the bikes, we'd be doing 80+mph....probably better that we weren't....apparently the road from Mex 15 to Alamos is being paved!
Just then, a voice inside my head said...."Use the Force; let go...."
So....we'd had enough pavement; and turned off a dirt road at one of the small ranches...we didn't come to Mexico for pavement!
I had El Fuerte marked on my lowly GPS V from the last Mexico bike trip I'd done, so we just wandered our way through ranch tracks for the next few hours; occasionally passing a small village and asking general directions. If you're ever in Mexico, this is really the best way to find your way around!
About three hours later, we popped out at a large spillway; part of a lake just to the West of El Fuerte!
Our seat of the pants navigation had paid off, but the rough tracks had taken an awful toll...
Steve Irwin's head was missing! Nooooooo!
So...If anyone has a spare Steve head just laying around....heck...how about a small pic of Mr. Marzonie we can just glue onto another figure....
More to come in Part Dos....
-H-
We arise the next morning to the same thing we fell asleep to...roosters; having just thrown the sleeping bags on the beds provided by the motel...I was really glad I didn't have one of Chuck's "scorpion" black lights for that place....
Foregoing breakfast, we were eager to hit the road to El Fuerte to the South. We had a road log from Efuente's web site, and were going to try and follow it. (Thanks, Sir!)
Before heading out of Alamos, we took a side trip up to the lookout area, which gives one a bird's eye (not more tacos...) view of the city. Really incredible!
Head South from the Plaza...and look for the sign!
From there we hit dirt; another good road...although we did run into some traffic.
The road log was going pretty well, until we started seeing roadwork...then...the most beautiful pavement in Mexico....if we were on the bikes, we'd be doing 80+mph....probably better that we weren't....apparently the road from Mex 15 to Alamos is being paved!
Just then, a voice inside my head said...."Use the Force; let go...."
So....we'd had enough pavement; and turned off a dirt road at one of the small ranches...we didn't come to Mexico for pavement!
I had El Fuerte marked on my lowly GPS V from the last Mexico bike trip I'd done, so we just wandered our way through ranch tracks for the next few hours; occasionally passing a small village and asking general directions. If you're ever in Mexico, this is really the best way to find your way around!
About three hours later, we popped out at a large spillway; part of a lake just to the West of El Fuerte!
Our seat of the pants navigation had paid off, but the rough tracks had taken an awful toll...
Steve Irwin's head was missing! Nooooooo!
So...If anyone has a spare Steve head just laying around....heck...how about a small pic of Mr. Marzonie we can just glue onto another figure....
More to come in Part Dos....
-H-
Last edited:
Hltoppr
El Gringo Spectacular!
Un poco perdido...A guest for Dinner....glad these seats recline....
Dave consoles me, wimpering about our guardian's downfall...Mr. Irwin will have to continue in his current state for the rest of the trip.
On to El Fuerte, where we quickly gas up, have some of the best carne asada tacos ever, and send a quick SPOT check out. A loud rattle emanates from the undercarriage...uh oh...doesn't sound good...
A quick check reveals that an exhaust clamp had given up the ghost...never fear, bailing wire cures all!
Running a bit behind due to our roundabout route, we don't rest much, fill up our water at a local tienda and head East, past the town of Choix, with hopes of being at the halfway point to Batopilas; Tubares, by nightfall.
The local 411, given to me just before we left, from ExpeditionsWest (Cruising along Mex15 in an air-conditioned, satellite phone equipped Sportsmobile....) was that there had been some reports of local kidnappings in the Tubares area, so I didn't want to be on the road after dark.
In general, the way we were headed has one major cash crop...reefer...and the main transport of the same takes place at night...the wrong place at the wrong time, and you're staring down the barrel of an AK-47. Needless to say, discretion is the better part of valor for me; I'll camp at a town before nightfall!
We once again hit dirt, and are faced with a choice....left or right? We consult our maps and the GPS...which only shows a couple of towns I've plotted in, and choose the left road.
Beautiful scenery for about an hour and a half...we pass a lake! Hmm...I don't remember a lake per se from the last trip....just a large river....
We pass a newly built fishing lodge....don't remember that either....and the road gets worse and worse. Four low is engaged, just for the gearing. We come on a couple of cowboys having a snack, and ask them about the road to Tubares. It's not the one we're on, which is a route to a ferry across the lake (Huites) and on to a town called La Reforma.
Twenty six rugged miles in the wrong direction, and it's now late afternoon. There are no good turnouts, as the road is narrow and steep, and I'm envisioning banditos and robbery...
We head back to the lodge, which had a couple of trucks parked outside. The proprietor, a fellow in his early 40s, his girlfriend, and other guys are busy having a bit of a fiesta, dining on Jose Cuervo and Crown Royal, on the main patio, which overlooks the lake from a bluff...beautiful place! They laugh at the old Cruiser; especially when they notice the right hand drive, and the two lost gringos. The lodge is new, and really nice; but too pricey for our meager budget at $100 US per night.
We ask if we can camp down on the "beach" further down the lodge's driveway...yup! Gratis! Free! We wander on down the steep driveway, still in 4 low.
We're immediately met by several barking dogs, then their owner, Pablo, an elderly gentleman, whose job is to watch, 24/7, the small fishing boats belonging to the lodge. His "shelter" consists of a tarp pulled over a simple wooden frame, with a cot and blankets underneath...what a way to make a living!
Happy to be somewhere secure for the evening, we pull out three chairs (I always carry a spare), and offer a cold Tecate from the fridge...Pablo is pretty amazed at the fridge in the truck, and very appreciative of a cold beer.
We get a chance to chat, in our bad Spanish, with him. He was living in Phoenix until a year ago, when he was caught and deported, and has a wife, three children, and several grandkids in the local area. We're not quite sure when he gets to see them, given his work schedule.
The wind comes up across the lake, spraying dust and sand about our chairs. As the sun goes down, we start thinking about dinner, so out comes the Brunton Wind River Stove and table, along with some salad, spaghetti, and raspberry crumble, courtesy of Mountain House. Pablo joins us for dinner...still pretty amazed at what comes out of the fridge....:eatchicke
Still more wind...yuk...I hate wind. I spent too much time in grad school in Lubbock, Texas. We decide to just spend the night in the Cruiser; reclining the front seats and throwing our sleeping bags over us. My video Ipod provides late night entertainment, as we chill out watching the Henry Rollins' interview with Marilyn Manson, and Monsterquest, where we learn about the dogboy of Minnesota....not too bad...and not uncomfortable at all!
We'll make for Batopilas tomorrow!
-H-
Dave consoles me, wimpering about our guardian's downfall...Mr. Irwin will have to continue in his current state for the rest of the trip.
On to El Fuerte, where we quickly gas up, have some of the best carne asada tacos ever, and send a quick SPOT check out. A loud rattle emanates from the undercarriage...uh oh...doesn't sound good...
A quick check reveals that an exhaust clamp had given up the ghost...never fear, bailing wire cures all!
Running a bit behind due to our roundabout route, we don't rest much, fill up our water at a local tienda and head East, past the town of Choix, with hopes of being at the halfway point to Batopilas; Tubares, by nightfall.
The local 411, given to me just before we left, from ExpeditionsWest (Cruising along Mex15 in an air-conditioned, satellite phone equipped Sportsmobile....) was that there had been some reports of local kidnappings in the Tubares area, so I didn't want to be on the road after dark.
In general, the way we were headed has one major cash crop...reefer...and the main transport of the same takes place at night...the wrong place at the wrong time, and you're staring down the barrel of an AK-47. Needless to say, discretion is the better part of valor for me; I'll camp at a town before nightfall!
We once again hit dirt, and are faced with a choice....left or right? We consult our maps and the GPS...which only shows a couple of towns I've plotted in, and choose the left road.
Beautiful scenery for about an hour and a half...we pass a lake! Hmm...I don't remember a lake per se from the last trip....just a large river....
We pass a newly built fishing lodge....don't remember that either....and the road gets worse and worse. Four low is engaged, just for the gearing. We come on a couple of cowboys having a snack, and ask them about the road to Tubares. It's not the one we're on, which is a route to a ferry across the lake (Huites) and on to a town called La Reforma.
Twenty six rugged miles in the wrong direction, and it's now late afternoon. There are no good turnouts, as the road is narrow and steep, and I'm envisioning banditos and robbery...
We head back to the lodge, which had a couple of trucks parked outside. The proprietor, a fellow in his early 40s, his girlfriend, and other guys are busy having a bit of a fiesta, dining on Jose Cuervo and Crown Royal, on the main patio, which overlooks the lake from a bluff...beautiful place! They laugh at the old Cruiser; especially when they notice the right hand drive, and the two lost gringos. The lodge is new, and really nice; but too pricey for our meager budget at $100 US per night.
We ask if we can camp down on the "beach" further down the lodge's driveway...yup! Gratis! Free! We wander on down the steep driveway, still in 4 low.
We're immediately met by several barking dogs, then their owner, Pablo, an elderly gentleman, whose job is to watch, 24/7, the small fishing boats belonging to the lodge. His "shelter" consists of a tarp pulled over a simple wooden frame, with a cot and blankets underneath...what a way to make a living!
Happy to be somewhere secure for the evening, we pull out three chairs (I always carry a spare), and offer a cold Tecate from the fridge...Pablo is pretty amazed at the fridge in the truck, and very appreciative of a cold beer.
We get a chance to chat, in our bad Spanish, with him. He was living in Phoenix until a year ago, when he was caught and deported, and has a wife, three children, and several grandkids in the local area. We're not quite sure when he gets to see them, given his work schedule.
The wind comes up across the lake, spraying dust and sand about our chairs. As the sun goes down, we start thinking about dinner, so out comes the Brunton Wind River Stove and table, along with some salad, spaghetti, and raspberry crumble, courtesy of Mountain House. Pablo joins us for dinner...still pretty amazed at what comes out of the fridge....:eatchicke
Still more wind...yuk...I hate wind. I spent too much time in grad school in Lubbock, Texas. We decide to just spend the night in the Cruiser; reclining the front seats and throwing our sleeping bags over us. My video Ipod provides late night entertainment, as we chill out watching the Henry Rollins' interview with Marilyn Manson, and Monsterquest, where we learn about the dogboy of Minnesota....not too bad...and not uncomfortable at all!
We'll make for Batopilas tomorrow!
-H-
