Lake Huites to Batopilas...the back way!
The next morning we awoke early, eager to get under way, with a surprisingly good sleep in the reclined front seats.
On the wrong road, a bit of backtracking was in order. I didn't want to retrace my steps all the way back to Choix; so once again we relied on the most reliable method of Mexican navigation...stop and ask at homes or towns!
Donde esta la calle a Tubares? We get sent down a tight arroyo, and up a dense two track; the Troopy rolling side to side as the suspension flexes through the ruts. It's kinda the right direction...I think....Then, a wide, graded road comes into view! We're well on our way!
The one thing I remember about the first time I came through this route on a motorcycle was that I stopped counting the number of canyons I crossed at eleven. Now that I'm viewing the route from behind the wheel, instead of concentrating on the sand and gravel, it's immediately apparent as to the vastness of the Sierra Madre range. The road twists and climbs; wide enough for mining and logging trucks, but washboarded and rough enough to keep the speeds down to under 25mph; slowing progress.
Dark clouds begin to fill the skies to the North, heading in our direction. We continue to climb; light rain becomes light snow. I'm thinking ahead to the upcoming river crossing, the Rio Urique, and the tight mountain roads which could become impassable during a storm. The passenger side door has ceased to operate properly, it won't open, so Dave is forced to climb over the gearshifts and driver's seat to get out of the truck. We'll see if we can fix it in the next town.
After a couple of hours, the Tubares mission comes into sight, with its cemetary and cracked bells. It has always been one of my favorites.
Stopping at the Tubares community store, which always has Cokes, but seldom bottled water, we work and pry at the door, to no avail. Apparently the dust has taken a toll on the new (aftermarket) door latch mechanism...that'll teach me to buy aftermarket over OEM Toyota...
Nothing a Fanta and some vanilla wafers can't cure! The rain has stopped, but a cold wind continues, so we veer towards the next road on to Batopilas, and prepare for the much more rugged conditions ahead.
Luckily, the Rio Urique is only hub deep. The slick, softball sized rocks makes for an interesting motorcycle ride, but are no problemo in the Cruiser. We climb up the opposite side, and I immediately hear a loud, metal grinding crunch! I hit the brakes....no much there...the pedal goes straight to the floor...not good....
After a couple of pumps, I have enough brakes to stop the Troopy, and get out to check for any damage. Dave would have helped, but since his door is still stuck shut...he'll sit in the truck. Turns out the OME suspension is flexing really, really well, and I've proceeded to bend the inner front fender lip with the tires. I'll try to be a bit easier on it from here on out, and maybe extend the bumpstops when I get home. I figure the brake issue is because the drums are wet from the river; nothing much we can do about it here if it's not....
Winding our way through Cuarenta Casas and Rodeo, the road goes from rough to freshly graded. From Batopilas to Rodeo, the Cerro Colorado mine has caused the road to be in heavy use. While not making the grades any flatter, it has caused there to be much less silt and dust to contend with.
Heading over the canyons, and dropping down into Batopilas canyon, the brakes finally show problems. I'm guessing the brake booster has gone out, and while I still have brakes, it takes quite a bit of forethought to bring the heavy Cruiser to a stop. Problematic to say the least, so I drop the transfer case into four low and use the gearing, with the brakes as a last resort.
Finally, after six hours, the small town of Batopilas comes into view!
-H-