Make Tacos Not War...FJ45 Wanderings in Mexico.

Hltoppr

El Gringo Spectacular!
Batopilas Mine Ruins & Relaxation!

By this time, Dave and I are in need of some down time. We've been driving every day for five days; much of it rough dirt tracks. The good thing about Batopilas is that to get here...you really have to want to be here.

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The route we came consists of 10-12 hours of dirt; through canyons, rivers and high pass ledges; while the other "main" route into town is thirty miles of pavement from the town of Creel at 7000 feet, then hitting dirt and dropping down though the second largest canyon in the Copper Canyon system, Batopilas Canyon. Imagine a dirt road cutting down 5000' into a canyon the size of the Grand Canyon in Arizona...truly, it is one of the "must do" overland route in North America. Breathtaking to say the least, and doable in a high clearance 2wd. Either way, it's not a town you just bump into...you've got to want it!

Batopilas itself was founded in the 1600s when silver was discovered along the Batopilas river, which flows through town. Through the years, silver has come and gone; as have several incarnations of the mines. Now, the chief export is rumored to be marijuana, like much of the area. That being said, I've never had any security issues, and would take my wife and daughter there in a heartbeat!

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FYI...No Smoking....for the gabachos who really don't know any Spanish...and lack common sense!

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(A note on security. Recently, there was a bit of a gunfight between police and a wanted individual in the town. This appears to have been an isolated incident....I'm serious when I say I don't really have security concerns here...but here is a pic of the bullet riddled wall....)

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In 1880, a former governor of Washington, D.C., Alexander Shepherd, purchased the San Miguel mine in Batopilas. Although the financial history of Shepherd's operation is questionable, the buildings of the home he built for his family, and the main mining complex are still here, and offer an amazing glimpse into the extravagance and ingenuity of Mr. Shepherd. Batopilas, in the late 1800s had hydroelectric power and aqueduct systems! These can still be seen today; and the power plant, although updated, remains in use!

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Walking through the Shepherd ruins is almost like being transported to ruins of Jordan or North Africa, with the sandstone glowing in the sun. Fireplaces and flues built into the solid walls rise three stories, and the stonework seen on the retaining walls would amaze any modern day mason with its craftmanship. Remains of smelters and boilers litter the site, and strangler figs both invade and stabilize many walls. A tour of the local museum helps to put things in their place, with photos of how the complex was in its glory days, and is another must do attraction across from the square.

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-H-
 
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S

Scenic WonderRunner

Guest
Don't Stop..........!

Keep Going!

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Make Tacos........Not War!:ylsmoke:




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Moody

Needs to get out more
Killer writeup. Makes me want to head south...I have had enough cold Utah weather this season.

PLEASE keep it coming!
 

Ryanmb21

Expedition Leader
That cruiser is SO awesome :exclaim:

awesome testimony and I LOVE taco's, diggin this thead :costumed-smiley-007
 

Hltoppr

El Gringo Spectacular!
Heading to the North; a Star....and the meaning of the thing....

Well rested after a day of sightseeing, the time has come to begin our journey back North towards the frontera (border) and back to reality.

After saying goodbye to our hosts, we gas up the Troopy and cross the two hundred year old bridge heading out of Batopilas on the main road. Imagine driving on a dirt road that climbs out of the Grand Canyon. It's in good condition, with minimal dust from the last heavy rains a couple of days ago. The brakes on the Troopy are now unresponsive to even multiple attempts to pump the pedal; although some residual braking is available with the pedal all the way to the floor. It makes me nervous, but at least the bullbar should fend off any burro, goat, or chicken that jumps out in front of us at the last minute. I shift into 4 low; without the hubs locked, just to use engine braking and gearing for the trek out.

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To add insult to injury, my attempt at lubing all the door latches has worked too well on the driver's side. Now the door will pop open on its own...ugh...Forty minutes of adjustment attempts lead to nothing, so out comes the ubiquitous bungee cord, which is wrapped around the door pillar through the front rear window...it'll work for now, anyways; although I don't look forward to doing the entire trip back to the states with the widow open.

Up the famous switchbacks we go, occasionally passing locals tending cattle, or just walking to the store. I envision the Troopy becoming a bus, full of livestock and people...if I had any passenger compartment room....gotta get that rear seat in!

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Finally hitting pavement about three hours later, we make a quick snack and air up the tires with the trusty Viair compressor...which is a hit with some local construction workers (the road to Batopilas is being paved about 15 miles from the main road). I take a quick look at the driver's door to see if the bungee is a permanent mod for the remainder of the trip, and am able to get the safety latch to catch...good enough...I'll just make sure to keep my seatbelt on, so as not to disappear out the open door if we hit a large bump!

On to the town of Creel. Located at 7000', Creel is a logging town with a tourism slant. Very popular with the adventure motorcycling and backpacking crowd; with a mix of locals and Tahumaran indians, it is a fine place to spend a couple of days shopping at the local markets and stores, and just generally hanging out. Relaxing isn't on our agenda; however, so we grab some grilled chicken as a mid afternoon snack and keep heading North to Casas Grandes, where we would like to surprise a mutual artist friend who is doing a photography residency there.

With the Troopy running well, we pass through the ponderosa pine forests around Creel, and drop in elevation to a pinon/juniper zone which reminds me a lot of Northern New Mexico, where I grew up. Just after dusk, we pull off the road ouside of Madera and make camp for the night. The sky is crystal clear, and the temperature drops quickly as we climb into our sleeping bags enjoying the vast expanse of stars and the milky way, unobscured by any human caused light pollution.

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A cold night follows, and our water left outside the Troopy is frozen the next morning; so we make a good breakfast of eggs and bagels (Egg Beaters in a fridge are a wonderful thing!) and listen to the BBC World News on the XM radio while sipping fresh coffee.

On the road again, we make good time to Casas Grandes, the location of the Paquime Ruins, a Unesco cultural site. We've both visted the ruins before, so we set about to find a friend, Raechel Running, a Flagstaff painter and photographer who is spending some time on an artist's residency. After asking around for la gringa Raechel, I notice a minivan with Arizona plates, and eclectic bumper stickers....yeah...that's her....

We wander into a large, spanish courtyard to find Raechel on her computer editing photos for a presentation she'll give later that night. Her surprise at seeing Dave and me wander in is apparent...not too many folks from home just "stop by" for a visit down here!

Raechel is one of these folks who can brighten up a room just by her mere presence and spirit, and Dave and I enjoy the opportunity to be shown around Casas Grandes by her. First stop, lunch at the local taco stand...mmm...shrimp tacos....then off to the local tortilleria, where I pick up some fresh tortillas and home made salsa for the trip back.

Raechel then gives us a tour of her home in Casas Grandes, which is like stepping into a gallery which would hold its own against any in Santa Fe; with photos of her own, as well as her father's and his partner; all well known artists in their own right. http://www.rmrfotoarts.com/

Dave and I have to keep moving North, and say our goodbyes to head home. Raechel hands me a bumper sticker for the Troopy which is perfect...and sums up the purpose, feeling, and style of this impromptu trip in an old Land Cruiser, with a good friend, and through areas which are seldom seen by any but the hardiest tourist:

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Keep Adventuring!

-H-
 
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Hltoppr

El Gringo Spectacular!
Post Script...final thoughts.

So, what was the toll on the Troopy?

Two thousand miles with an average fuel consumption of 17 mpg, two aftermarket door latches gone, one brake booster...and...as I pull into the garage after washing her off...the water pump goes out; belching coolant on the floor! I laugh...typical Land Cruiser...breaks down in the garage! :victory:

Once again, I've been assured that contrary to the rumors of bandits and corrupt police, Mexico is a wonderful country full of friendly folks; and contains some of the most beautiful terrain and opportunities for a truly life changing overlanding experience.

A bit of preparation, a tad of traveler's Spanish, and a smile are all you need to head South (or East for you Efuentes! :sunflower ).

I believe Dan Eldon coined the phrase...The Journey is the Destination!

Last Sunday was spent bringing the Troopy back to life, and I'll do a final brake adjust this weekend...and she's ready for the new mods and being prepped for the next FAMILY adventure...yes, I think my 19mo. old is ready to get out in the middle of nowhere!

Cheers Ladies and Gentlemen!

-H-

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efuentes

Explorer
Thanks for the writeup and the kind words to Mexico, I can`t wait to go up there, 3 short weeks.

Saludos
 

Scott Brady

Founder
efuentes said:
Thanks for the writeup and the kind words to Mexico, I can`t wait to go up there, 3 short weeks.

Saludos

There are many of us that love your country. I am certainly proud to be an American, but feel sincerely honored to have seen the parts of Mexico that I have...
 

kcowyo

ExPo Original
Awesome, just awesome. :clapsmile


A timeless trip, rolling in a classic Cruiser. It's official.... I'm jealous. Very well done.


:beer:
 

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